The Mayan Riviera

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11 DECEMBER 2003
Merida: go colonial
During their 300-year stay in the Yucatan, the Spaniards brought with them their architecture, culture and pageantry. Much of Merida, the capital built by conquistadors yearning for their homeland, looks like something straight out of southern Spain. Wander around the lovely Plaza Mayor and then take in the palacios, casas and cathedral, much of which was built from the stones of Mayan temples. But don't forget contemporary Merida's bars, clubs and restaurants, where you'll soon learn how to tell a taco from a tortilla and an enchilada from a burrito.

If you want to sleep in style, stay in one of the old colonial haciendas or country estates now converted into some of the country's most luxurious and character-filled hotels. You'll get the best of all worlds at the 19th-century Hacienda Santa Rosa near Merida which is surrounded by Mayan architectural remains and decorated by local artists. Activities depend on how energetic you're feeling; a pool, library and spa treatments are all at your disposal, and cycling and riding can be arranged.