Croatia: The new Riviera

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20 JANUARY 2004
Move over Côte d'Azur and Cannes. Step forward the new Riviera, starring Croatia's capital Dubrovnik, the coastal resort of Rovinj and a necklace of sun-drenched islands off the country's west coast in the Adriatic.

Admirers of the area's pine forests, olive groves, vineyards and fishing villages include Steven Spielberg, Sharon Stone and Clint Eastwood. Princess Caroline of Monaco is so impressed, she's buying a local island.

Diving guru Jacques Cousteau described the sparkling sea here as some of the clearest and cleanest waters in the world. It's not difficult to see why Croatia's so popular – the prices are low and the people friendly and welcoming.

Dubrovnik
On the south-eastern tip of the mainland, basking in sunshine and bathed by mild breezes, is Dubrovnik. George Bernard Shaw's "Pearl of the Adriatic" is encircled by 18ft-thick walls which form a great golden cloak of stone that has protected the city for 700 years.

Walk around them and peep over a patchwork of gardens overflowing with jasmine, lemon trees and vines, where cats doze on sun-baked roofs. Above them rises a skyline made of the domes, spires and belltowers of the city's 37 churches and monasteries.

Built on a neat grid system, Dubrovnik is bisected by one of the world's most beautiful main streets, the Stradun, which looks as if it is polished by hand every night. Here, you'll find the Franciscan monastery run by monks since 1317; one of Europe's oldest pharmacies it still sells its own headache remedies. Friends gather at the fountain inside the monastery's Pile Gate, for centuries a traditional meeting place. In years gone by, travellers used to have to wash here before they were allowed into the city.

One thing you won't find within the city walls is a hotel. No modern buildings are allowed to blight the harmony of the streetscape. Dubrovnik is a pearl determined to keep its value.

Korcula
The town of Korcula, on the island of the same name, lays claim to more myths, monuments, heroes and history than all the other islands put together. According to local lore, it was established by Trojan hero Anthenor in the 12th century BC and legend has it that its most famous son was adventurer Marco Polo.

Korcula islanders are traditionally superb craftsmen and the 15th century – when the town was built – saw the peak of their stone-carving skills. They have left their proud mark in stone throughout the Adriatic, but saved their best work for their own island. It took builders 150 years to complete the Cathedral of St Marcus, a considerable act of faith considering the battles and attacks the town's old walls and streets had to sustain. Those days are brought to life again every summer in fierce sword dances evoking the battles between Christians and Moors.

There's lots to do on the island, including fabulous walks in the pine-scented woods and vineyards and superb swimming and snorkelling opportunities in some of its 200 unspoiled coves and bays. Don't try to "do" Korcula on a day trip, however, Marco Polo's island deserves to be savoured.