Beautiful Brunei

SEND TO A FRIEND

29 APRIL 2004
Vibrant village life
It's worth taking one of various guided tours. Perhaps the most interesting is to the unique Kampung Ayer (literally "water village") on the Brunei River. This group of stilt houses is home to 30,000 inhabitants. Here you'll be invited to the village's "show home" where your host proffers sweet tea and cakes. The stilt houses were built before rainforest areas were cleared for more orthodox housing, but many of them are bang up-to-date, with satellite TV and internet connections. Communities in the village each have their own chief, schools, police station, fire station and waterbus stops. This is your last chance to see a rapidly disappearing lifestyle. In a bid to modernise the country's image, the authorities have decreed that if a house falls empty, it may not be be reoccupied.

On a day when Brunei's heat and humidity drop a little, take the opportunity to browse around the local markets and breathe in the heady fragrance of the lemongrass and spices on sale. Other souvenirs to snap up include exquisite raffiawork. Finally, don't miss the Jerudong Park Playground in the Brunei Muara region, a funfair and adventure park in tropical gardens that makes for an entertaining evening with rollercoasters, traditional bumper cars, shooting galleries and boat rides.

Fabulous food and drink
Street and restaurant food in Brunei is delicious, mainly ricebased Malay and Chinese cuisine. In the bustling capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, you're likely to come across excellent Indian, Italian and Japanese restaurants, too. Brunei, a Muslim country, banned alcohol in 1991. That means no wine or ice-cold beer with your restaurant meal. But non-Muslim visitors over 17 years old can "import" their own to drink in their hotel room and, even if this opportunity doesn't present itself, tall, iced glasses of melon and mango cocktails are the ultimate in refreshment.

Serenity spas
Spas are an integral part of Brunei's many new hotels. The finest is at the Empire Hotel and Country Club, which offers La Prairie treatments, an indoor swimming pool, hot tub and modern gym. Its 445 acres also include an 18-hole golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus. And the best news? Despite the Empire's splendour, it has a flexible attitude towards drop-in diners, and families are especially welcome.