Enjoy an Indian summer

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19 MAY 2004
Rajvilas, Jaipur
With its rosy crenellations, tasselled gazebos and blue-tiled pool, the fantasy Rajasthan fortress of Rajvilas at Jaipur reflects the northwest Indian state's glittering colour and exuberance. The recipient of many awards and with a VIP guest list that other hotels would die for, it welcomed US President Bill Clinton in the drop-dead luxury of the 1,057-square-metre Royal Villa suite - 200 extra phone lines were needed and other guests had to be relocated in order to accommodate his presidential needs. Other famous names who have signed the guest register include Paul McCartney, Jodie Kidd and Naomi Campbell, who made more modest demands.

So if you want to play maharajah, book yourself into one of the pretty intimate individual villas clustered around little courtyards, with tinkling fountains, pergolas and fragrant clouds of jasmine. Wallow in the marble sunken bath, which has its own little walled garden, and relax on creamy linen sofas or your four-poster bed. It's all pleasantly low-key, in contrast with the flamboyant alfresco dining courtyard where folk dancers and musicians perform during dinner. Even the spa has its own bit of history; it's in a restored haveli, a traditional Rajasthan mansion with hot and cold pools, meditation terraces and a bevy of treatments. Early-morning yoga in the gardens is the perfect way to start the day.

Sightseeing: Elephants decked out in rich brocade will carry you to the 16th-century Amber Palace. The maharani there had to be transported around her quarters in a cart because her dress weighed 18lbs. The "pink city" of Jaipur has some of India's best jewellery shops. Look out also for blue pottery and miniatures.