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30 JUNE 2004
Mountains and vineyards
Tour de France cyclists may curse the 6,000-foot ascent of Mont Ventoux as they gasp their way to the summit but tourists, spared such hardship, will simply gasp at the pleasing vistas of silvery olive groves, purple fields of lavender and verdant forests as they drive to the top. Nearby, the ridges of Les Dentelles de Montmirail, whose name refers to the peaks’ resemblance to the pins on a lace-making board, are less daunting to ascend. Picture-postcard hamlets like Les Barroux, Caromb and Le Crestet, which each huddle round a church or chateau, dot the area.

Hire a car and wriggle round them via country lanes for half a day. Plot your route carefully – the region is best known for its wine and it would be a waste not to take in some of the Côte du Rhône wine villages. Plan pitstops at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, where even the tourist office offers tastings! The sweet-toothed should stock up on Muscat, the golden speciality of Beaumes de Venise.

Where to stay: Hostellerie de Crillon-le- Brave is a charming country house hotel. The gardens alone are worth a visit. L’Amazette is a pretty self-catering cottage that also boasts magical views.

REPORT: JILL CRAWSHAW