Moorish Spain

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22 APRIL 2005
Gaucín
As you approach this charming village from afar in the spring, it seems to be floating above a cloud of blossom. With its huddle of twisting streets and baroque churches, Gaucín is one of the most beautiful of all the pueblos, not surprisingly attracting a colony of artists and writers. Its Moorish castle, the Castillo del Aguila, is so named for its eagle views as far as Gibraltar and North Africa. Try a tapa, or meal at the old Fonda Nacional inn, a favourite with British officers and travellers since 1800.

Where to stay: The old but superbly converted village house which looks over the sea towards Africa is just a stroll from Gaucín’s shops and tapas bars. It can sleep four but is unsuitable for children under 13. As well as balconies and a roof garden, there’s also a pretty terrace, brimming with plants, for sunbathing and alfresco dining, and a snug open-plan dining room, complete with wood-burning stove to keep you cosy in the cooler months.

Frigiliana
With its dazzling white cubist architecture and mosaic-cobbled alleys festooned with geraniums, Frigiliana has won national and regional prizes as the prettiest and best preserved village in the country. It is steeped in Moorish atmosphere – ceramic plates dotted around the village commemorate 16th-century battles between Christians and Moors. Only four miles from the coast but nearly 1,000 feet above it, the little town has become renowned for its handicraft bargains – look out for pottery, leatherware and wood carvings, as well as local honey, wine and superb olive oil.

Where to stay: Base yourself in a house full of traditional Moorish and Andalusían features. It is near the heart of the village and just a short stroll from bars and restaurants – even a donkey taxi rank – but retains a completely private feel, thanks to its peaceful, beautiful garden full of avocado, oleander and cypress trees. It even has its own pool. The house can accommodate four holidaymakers, but is unsuitable for the elderly or children under eight due to its numerous steps.

Where to visit: Pop down to the coast at nearby Nerja if you want to frolic in the Med, linger in seafood restaurants and hit the tapas bars. With tourism and local character evenly balanced, this resort has a real feelgood factor. If you’re into retail therapy, head slightly further west to Malaga. The Larios shopping centre has over 100 outlets, and the department store El Corte Ingles is huge. Make time for a glass of wine in the atmospheric Antigua Casa Guardia bar and visit No 15 Plaza de la Merced in the old quarter, where Picasso was born.

Alcaucín
Citrus groves, vineyards, palm trees and orchards of pomegranates and mangoes surround the villages of Eastern Andalusía, famous for their wine and fiestas. Moorish Alcaucín is renowned for its anis – try the liqueur at the Venta de Alfarnate which, it is claimed, is Spain’s oldest inn and once the haunt of bandits and smugglers.

Where to stay: You can live like a lord in the 18th-century village house built for the Count of Alcaucín and which still houses family portraits, heraldic crests and antiques – even in the kitchen, which is a cook’s delight. A swimming pool, private walled garden and covered lookout point on the roof - the views are stunning - add to its sense of grandeur. In all, this is a classy retreat for up to seven holidaymakers and a baby.

Where to visit: The nearest beaches are at Torre del Mar 16 miles away, while Malaga is an hour’s drive (about 40 miles). There are also superb natural parks in the area which you shouldn’t miss; plus one of the wonders of the world, Granada’s Alhambra palace, well worth the 70-mile drive.