The British designer took Samuel Coleridge's poem Kubla Khan as his starting point to present a dizzying collection dominated by vivid colours
Photo: Rex
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Harem pants and eye-catching accessories like this Rastafarian knitted hat were typical of Galliano's high romance approach
Photo: Rex

Marc Jacobs reproduced the voluminous look of 17th-century gowns to draw maximum attention to the waist and hips
Photo: Getty Images

Galliano shows Xanadu 'pleasure dome'-inspired collection

3 MARCH 2008
Greeted by the show's glitter-flecked pool and gold Buddha backdrop, style mavens at John Galliano's Paris show knew they were in for treat when the lights went up.

The British maestro presented an extravagant collection which referenced the poem Kubla Khan by English poet Samuel Coleridge .

His vision of the wordsmith's 'stately pleasure dome' was inhabited by fantastic, colourfully dressed characters, while Hollywood-style extras resembling Rudolph Valentino and harassed scriptwriters dotted the audience.

Models in bias-cut Thirties-style chiffon gowns recreated silver screen goddesses, while light harem pants teamed with cocoon-shaped jackets struck an Oriental note. Giving even more 'bling' factor to the brilliantly hued saffron, orange and fuchsia fabrics was faux jewel detailing.

At Louis Vitton Marc Jacobs had returned to the brand's luxury roots with an ultra-sophisticated collection heavy on evening wear. "I adore Sarkozy, I adore Carla Bruni, the Eiffel Tower is almost in my garden," enthused the American designer, explaining that the collection was his "idea of what a French fashion show used to be like".

The New Yorker delivered echoes of the 17th-century pannier silhouette, with emphasis on the hips and exaggerated ruching at the waist. It wasn't a time specific approach, however. "It's not about any one era," explained Marc. "It's about shapes and silhouettes and working with folding and draping, which can apply to any time."