Though the rules surrounding the Royal Ascot dress code haven't changed much since the first official event 112 years ago, women's fashion for the most coveted event of the season is entering a new era.
Contrary to the lack of movement within the official dress code, Ascot fashion constantly moves with the times. Fast forward to the 2020's, more and more women are wearing suits and are also being encouraged to experiment with pre-loved clothing.
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Proving the determination to stay relevant, Ascot's official Style Guide has been renamed the 'Royal Ascot Lookbook' for 2023. It also consists of six different fashion edits: Luxe, Tailoring, Pre-Loved & Rental, Vintage, High Street and Emerging Designer.
From fur and pearls in the 1920s, to pared back looks during the 40s thanks to fabric rationings after WW2, to bright colours of the swinging 60s, an elegant take on the boho movement during the 70s, all the way up to 2017, when Saville Row tailor Daisy Knatchbull became the first woman known to wear a morning suit. Guests have always done what they can with what they have, and looking back at interpretations on the festival's sartorial structure through the years is a first place past time for fashion lovers.
Ascot Fashion: 1700's - 1800's
"Though the first races were held in Ascot in 1711, it wasn’t until 1807 that a dress code was first implemented by Beau Brummell, a close friend of future King George IV, who decided that men were required to wear black coats with white cravats and pantaloons," explains Compton House of Fashion. Women who were allowed to dress more freely until Queen Victoria made hats the norm after wearing a porter bonnet (a headpiece that shielded the face from observers) to Ascot in the 1830s.
© Edward Gooch CollectionAscot Fashion: 1900s
The S-bend corset was fashionable during the 1900s. "It thrust the hips backwards and forced the chest forward into a fashionable pouter-pigeon shape," explains the V&A. This silhouette was "emphasised with puffed, frilly blouses that were often embellished with decorations like lace collars and broad ribbon ties. Separates were popular, with skirts fitted over the hip and fluted towards the hem."
© MirrorpixAscot Fashion: 1910s
The royal influence on Ascot was such that when the Royal Family were in mourning for King Edward VII in 1910, all the guests wore black.
© Topical Press AgencyAscot Fashion: 1920s
© GettyIn 1922 The Times newspaper declared that Royal Ascot races was "the best place in England to see beautiful women wearing beautiful clothes." Lots of Ascot fashion of the 1920s reflected the eras iconic flapper dress. Though women still wore shapewear, full corsets were falling out of fashion, dresses were slightly shorter and more freeing. We have Coco Chanel to thank for a lot of iconic fashion silhouettes, including the popularisation of the flapper. She was of course also a pioneer of pearls, which for Ascot were accompanied by fur accessories for that added touch of luxury.
Ascot Fashion: 1930s
The drop-waist androgyny of the previous decade gave way to a slinky femininity in the 1930s. "Parisian couturiers introduced the bias-cut into their designs, which caused the fabric to skim over the body's curves," explains the V&A. Long, simple and clinging evening gowns, made of satin were popular at Ascot.
© Daily Herald ArchiveAscot Fashion: 1940s
As a result of the WW2 there were severe fabric shortages, which lasted until the end of the decade. Skirts were a little below the knee and straight, worn with boxy jackets and broad, padded shoulders. From 1942 onwards clothes were made under the government Utility Scheme that rationed materials. During the war, accessories were important because of their relative affordability; tall platform shoes or sandals, and tall floral hats were fashionable.
© Topical Press AgencyAscot Fashion: 1950s
During the 1950s dresses with pencil or full skirts as well as separates were popular at Ascot. Hats were either small pill-box styles or large brimmed, saucer-like hats.
© KeystoneAscot Fashion: 1960s
The 'swinging 60s' was an epic era for Ascot Fashion. Wages were the highest they had been since the war, fitted undergarments like girdles were a thing from the past, and Ascot's dress code became ever more relaxed.
© GettyAscot Fashion: 1970s
Women’s fashion at the races has managed to stay modern, and in keeping with the times. Trouser suits for women were allowed into Royal Ascot enclosures in the 1970s. Fashion was also edging towards the 70s, when of course funky patterns, theatrical looks and flamboyant outfits were all the rage.
© Victor DreesAscot Fashion: 1980s
The 80s were known for its statement accessories, which was channelled through guests headpieces at Royal Ascot. Neon was of course also a big hit, which guests gave a chic makeover for Ascot by wearing bright colours in the form of outfits that adhered to the dress code. Princess Diana's outfits set the tone for chic style at the races.
© Princess Diana ArchiveAscot Fashion: 1990s
In constrast to the 1980s, iconic 1990s designers such as Calvin Klein made way for a minimal aesthetic that is still popular today. Race-going fashion trends followed suit, with streamlined dresses, loose flowing fabrics and slip dresses.
© Tim GrahamAscot Fashion: 2000s
The Y2K era lead to experimental hats becoming the norm at Ascot and bright bold colours.
© Samir HusseinAscot Fashion: 2010s
In 2012 organisers of the event released a 'formal style guide' for racegoers for the first time. For women, the rules include that women’s hemlines must fall just above the knee or lower and that straps on dresses and tops must be at least one inch wide. In 2017 jumpsuits were formally allowed into the dresscode. More and more women have worn suits to Royal Ascot in the 21st century, pushing the boundaries of the event's strict gendered clothing rules.
© Kirstin SinclairAscot Fashion: 2020s
Many guests still opt for traditional elegance, but dresses are more slender and headpieces are more chic. In fact the Royal Enclosure dress code stipulates that ladies must wear a hat or headpiece with a solid base of 4 inches in diameter, and this year novelty hats and ones which are excessively oversized (or promoting or marketing any product or brand) are "not permitted."
© Chris Jackson
