How to nail the messy hair trend

In a world of bouncy, gravity-defying bangs and super-sleek blow dries, an underground hair movement is churning, planning its coup. 

Only you may have noticed that the underground movement is not quite as covert as it once was, and instead, hoards of people are now lining up to join the cause. 

The rebellious act in question? Rejecting coiffured perfection in favour of calculated messiness, and I'm totally here for it.

READ: How to recreate Cindy Crawford's iconic 90s blow dry

What does great, messy hair actually look like? 

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One thing to note before you join the dark side? It's a fine line between sexy, undone mess and hair that is just plain messy. (A gentle reminder actually wouldn't go amiss in my case.)

"The look differs in that it has an element of chic refinement," explains acclaimed hairstylist and salon founder Edward James. "It's not stiff, over-hairsprayed, or heavy with products, instead, it should have body and look deconstructed, more so than hair that has been obviously styled with a blow dryer or other tools." 

MORE: The 10 best hairdressers in London, tried and tested

READ: 10 beauty hacks that will revolutionise your routine

Essentially, nailing messy hair is all about leaning into insouciance, whether that's through sporadic sectioning or tousled texture.

You want to look like you "have been out on a big night and just so happen to still look cool," as global session stylist and Percy & Reed founder Paul Percival so aptly puts it.

To cheat your way to the lived-in look, he recommends using products that give a "slightly oily finish, without actually feeling greasy".

But who do we have to thank for the 2024 emergence of the unkempt, cool-girl aesthetic? Hair royalty Sam McKnight's signature 'done, undone' look has been spotted on the runways over the last couple of seasons at Annie's Ibiza and 16Arlington to name a few.

However the return of 90s grunge, originally marking a shift away from purposeful 80s volume and towards less manufactured effortlessness, also has a lot to answer for.

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In terms of poster girls, supermodel Kate Moss is one of the trend's greatest allies. Others include noughties It-girl Alexa Chung and actress Sienna Miller, both cementing the look's close alignment with "coolness and confidence" as Edward puts it, testament to messy hair's universal appeal. 

Can everyone get in on the unkempt action? According to Paul, the answer is a resolute yes, with one key caveat. "There is definitely a messy look for everyone, but it really is about getting a great haircut," he explains. "You need a cut that will give your hair the best natural look. For instance, if you have fine hair, you will want a messy bob or crop, whereas if you have thick hair, you can do more of a long-layer look."

How to achieve the messy hair look 

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Refine your approach based on your length and hair type. For longer hair, Paul recommends applying a styling product, Percy & Reed's Define & Hold Finishing Cream, on both wet and dry hair to add a little weight. To then create an undone wave, he favours Babyliss' Titanium Brilliance Waving Wand. "It's as simple as randomly picking up sections of hair and wrapping them around the wand for a few seconds," he explains. "You can add as little or as much movement as you like." For shorter messy looks, he usually works a texture paste into dry hair to create a "worn-in" effect.

For fine or straight hair, Edward advocates texturising sprays and other products that can create the illusion of body such as Aveda's Volumising Tonic and Oribe's Dry Texturising Spray. If your hair is especially fine, focus on building up at the roots – he is a fan of Color Wow's Raise The Root Thicken & Lift Spray – and work gentle bends into the hair with a medium-sized round brush and straightening irons.

If you are already blessed with natural texture, the aim is often controlling volume without it looking overly styled. Smooth the roots using Oribe's Balm D'Or (it doubles up as a heat protectant) and then for highlighting existing texture, Edward rates Colour Wow's Pop & Lock Serum.

Easy messy hair hacks

1.   T-shirt scrunching

Break away from traditional tools and experiment with a clean cotton T-shirt, better known among the TikTok generation as 'plopping'. (Don't ask.) "After washing your hair, apply a light mousse or sea salt spray," Edward says. "Then, use the T-shirt to scrunch your hair from the ends up towards the scalp. This method helps to create a more natural, tousled texture that's perfect for the messy hair look. The soft fabric of the T-shirt is gentle on your hair and helps to reduce frizz."

2.     Head massage

Edward recommends focusing on the scalp with a gentle massage before you begin the styling process. "This not only feels great but also helps to boost volume at the roots, creating a natural lift that's essential for a messy hairstyle," he explains. "After massaging, tilt your head upside down and give your hair a quick blast with a hairdryer, focusing on the roots for added volume. Flip back up and you'll notice a more relaxed, voluminous base to start styling your messy look."

3.     The 'balloon trick'

Conventional? No. Effective and edgy? You bet. "After styling your hair loosely, gently rub a balloon over the top layer of your hair to create a bit of static and flyaway strands," Edward says. "This technique adds an interesting texture and makes your hair look more effortlessly tousled."