Eyemaxxing has gone viral – here's how to achieve the 90s tightline look

"The eyes, Chico. They never lie,” declared Al Pacino in Brian De Palma’s 1983 masterpiece Scarface. It’s a line that has well and truly stood the test of time, transcending the silver screen to become a phrase that feels particularly apt when it comes to the eye part of your makeup routine.

The rise of the viral term "eyemaxxing" is a case in point: the new beauty agenda is going full Tony Montana, with the focus firmly on how much we can – you guessed it – maximise the allure of our eyes. It’s a deliberately heavy-handed technique designed to enhance and intensify your natural eye colour.

Rather than going full cut-crease with eyeshadow, eyemaxxing uses colour theory to make your eyes pop. It starts with tightlining – essentially waterline eyeliner – using a skinny streak of kohl applied to the rims of the upper and lower lids, rather than across the roots of the lashes. You’d be surprised by just how much definition a skinny streak of pencil can give your eyes. Paired with the right complementary shade, it can make your iris appear richer and more intense, while adding an effortlessly sultry effect.

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Colour theory is all about pairing shades that sit opposite one another on the colour wheel to make each other appear more vibrant. Let’s break it down by eye colour. If you have brown eyes, opt for blue eyeliner to enhance their natural richness. If your brown eyes lean more hazel, then berry tones, deep purples and emerald greens will help bring out those flashes of green.

For all the blue-eyed doves out there, your contrasting shade is yellow, so think golden browns, bronzes and coppers to really make your eyes pop. Meanwhile, for my fellow green-eyed goddesses, I’ve got this one mastered. Lean into bright burgundies, mauves, rich plums and cranberries to intensify your gaze and achieve that almost snake-like look.

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You don’t need to be an MUA to pick up the kohl. While it might seem daunting to get quite that close to your eye, if you can go a few seconds without blinking, you can do it. The eyemaxxing trend also peppered the runway. For the Marc Jacobs autumn/winter 2026 show, kohl-rimmed waterlines were everywhere via makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver.

Tightlining is a trend that was maximised during the 90s, when everything was razor-thin – from brows and silhouettes to eyeliner. Just think of that smudgy Kate Moss look that defined the era. And the beauty of the technique is that it’s meant to look slightly worn-in, delivering that perfectly imperfect, grungy 90s effect. 

© Getty Images for Gucci

However, the roots of eyeliner can actually be traced all the way back to ancient Egypt, so who wouldn't want to channel a little of Cleopatra's irresistible allure?

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