Do you know what’s kinda chic? Not Dolly Parton, that’s what. Not that she ever wanted to be, of course.
On Tuesday, the world lost a true jewel of a musician, actress and advocate. Industry legends from Sir Paul McCartney to Jane Fonda have expressed their heartbreak at the loss of ‘The Queen of Country,’ whose impact reverberated from the ghostly hills of Appalachia to the global stage.
Whether you knew Dolly’s dulcet vibrato from the radio or iconic collaborations with stars including Kenny Rodgers, Linda Ronstadt and Hannah Montana, the singer transcended generations to touch the lives of so many with her gut-wrenchingly poignant lyrics and crystalline tone.
© Getty ImagesShe was also fiercely unapologetic in her image. Twinkling rhinestones, diamanté lettering, swathes of hot pink polyester formed the foundation of her wardrobe, which was primarily produced in her own custom design shop by teams led by longtime collaborators Steve Summers, Lucy Adams and Robért Behar. “I’m not a fashion icon; I’m an eyesore,” Dolly proudly announced, paving the way for iconoclastic style while leaving a trail of sequins in her wake.
Her sharp self-awareness and disregard of conformity quickly garnered a cult following, primarily among the LGBTQ+ community. Past interviews reveal that the singer yielded inspiration for society’s underbelly - so-called American “trash” - such as local Tennessee vagrants and drifters.
© Getty ImageA fusion of faux showgirl glitz and hillbilly warmth, Dolly’s style has achieved a near-mythic status in pop culture history. Immortalised in both her discography (Backwoods Barbie) and self-scribed book Behind the Seams: My Life in Rhinestones, the singer’s costume has permeated all corners of the fashion industry, from Breeze detergent adverts to the upper echelons of luxury design.
Collaborations with Bob Mackie cemented Dolly’s place in fashion history, with the legendary designer creating a string of embellished looks, including the whimsical butterfly gown she wore for the 1979 TV special Dolly & Carol in Nashville. Upon hearing of her passing, the costumier recounted working with the legend on social media, writing: “She was a joy and pleasure to dress.’
Decades later, Dolly’s sartorial influence resurfaced on the runways, with Alessandro Michele’s Gucci spring/summer 2019 collection and Jeremy Scott’s Moschino autumn/winter 2016 show both paying homage to her unmistakable aesthetic. Scott gifted the star pieces from the tatt-tastic offering, including candy-pink heeled Wellington boots crafted from rubber, alongside fringed biker jackets reimagined as miniature accessories.
Yet, while practicality was far from her priority, her campy aesthetics were not devoid of function. Bubblegum-hued Spandex pieces allowed for effortless on-stage movement, while her signature set of cherry red acrylic nails doubled up as a metronome - famously exhibited during a 1987 talk-show performance of Shortnin Bread with Patti LaBelle. Most famously, however, we have Dolly’s claws to thank for the creation of 9 to 5, the title song of the 1980 comedy film of the same name in which she starred.
© Getty ImagesModern day muses including Sabrina Carpenter, Paris Hilton and Dolly’s real-life goddaughter and onscreen co-star Miley Cyrus continue to yield inspiration from the performer’s archive and attitude towards clothing. “I would never stoop so low as to be fashionable, that’s the easiest thing in the world to do,” and perhaps her most famous utterance “It costs a lot of money to look this cheap” are a pinch of many pearls of wisdom the star delivered over the years – all of which prove that, according to Dolly, more is almost always more.
In the wake of her passing, the question remains: how will Dolly’s style and legacy translate today? I think it’s simple, really. In an age of social media algorithms and data-led trends that encourage us to slot ourselves into a single aesthetic and dictate what is chic - and what is not - Dolly’s legacy gives us permission to stick a middle finger up at it all.
© Getty ImagesAs a good friend once said to me, “If you aren’t afraid of a little tackiness, then you’ve never had fun in your life.” It’s a sentiment, I think, perfectly encapsulates Dolly’s outlook, one that in light of her glittering departure from this world, will now double in weight.
And perhaps that is the greatest lesson she leaves contemporary fashion. When the algorithm tells us what to wear, Dolly reminds us to dress a little louder and a little tackier. A little more Dolly - with a handful of sparkle thrown in for good measure.
