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COOKERY
CHICKEN STOCK
CREAMY GREEK LEMON CHICKEN
CREOLE DUCK

CHICKEN STOCK

It's always a good thing to have some chicken stock on hand in the kitchen as it has so many uses, from aspics to soups and casseroles.

Makes 1.5 litres

  • 2 carcasses uncooked chicken, 1kg wings or 1 turkey drumstick, sliced
  • Any giblets or trimmings such as wingtips from the chickens
  • 4 carrots, sliced
  • 1 leek, well cleaned and sliced
  • 1 onion, sliced or chopped
  • 1 celery stalk
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig of thyme
  • 2-3 parsley stalks
  • 2 tbsp white wine or 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
  • 75g unsalted butter (optional)

 

Chop the chicken carcasses into several large pieces, put into a stockpot with any giblets or trimmings, cover with cold water and skim off any fat that rises to the surface. Bring to a gentle simmer without boiling and skim off any foam that rises to the surface. Add all the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns and white wine or white wine vinegar, return to simmering and cook for 1 1/2 hours.

Alternatively, heat the butter, if using, in a frying pan, add the vegetables and cook until lightly browned. Add the chicken and proceed as before.

Strain the stock through a sieve.

Chicken fat will not solidify at normal refrigerator temperature. Cool the stock quickly then freeze. After 3-4 hours, the solidified fat can be scraped off with a spoon. Return the stock to the pan, bring to the boil and simmer until reduced to the required intensity of flavour. Freeze in conveniently sized containers.


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CREAMY GREEK LEMON CHICKEN

Avgolémono - the liaison of egg yolks and lemon juice stirred into a dish before serving - is one of the hallmarks of Greek cooking.

Serves 4

  • 50g butter
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1.5kg chicken, cut into serving pieces, or 1.5kg chicken pieces
  • 1 onion, sliced
  • 1 carrot, sliced
  • 1 small celery stalk or slice of fennel, cut into chunks
  • 600ml chicken stock
  • 1 tbsp cornflour
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

  • Zest of 1 lemon, cut into fine strips or removed with a zester
  • Sprigs of dill or 1 tbsp chopped fresh dill

 

Heat the butter and oil in a large, flameproof casserole. Season the chicken pieces, onion, carrot and celery or fennel, add them to the casserole and sauté gently without browning, but turning them over from time to time, about 15 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, then season to taste.

Cover and transfer to a preheated oven at 170ºC (350ºF) Gas 4 for 40 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked (the juices should run clear when pricked through the thickest part with a fork or skewer).

Put the cornflour into a small cup or bowl, add 4 tbsp water and stir until loose. (This is called slaking.)

Remove the casserole from the heat, pour off the liquid into another saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce to about 300ml.

Remove from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes.

Put the egg yolks in a bowl, beat well, then whisk in 1 tbsp of the lemon juice. Whisk the misture into the sauce, a little at a time, adn very slowly. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the remaining tbsp of lemon juice if it needs a little more acidity.

Reserve a tbsp or so of the lemon zest and stir the remainder into the sauce.

Remove the chicken from the oven and pour the sauce over. Serve topped with chopped dill and the reserved lemon zest.


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CREOLE DUCK

The sauce in which the duck cooks has a tantalising, slightly sweet-sour overtone which cuts through the richness of duck.

Serves 4

  • 2 ducks, about 1.5kg each
  • 40g plain flour
  • 500ml chicken stock
  • 250ml beef stock
  • 3 tbsp redcurrant jelly
  • 125ml sweet sherry
  • 125ml sherry vinegar
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 2 tsp crushed garlic
  • 2 sprigs of fresh thyme
  • 1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Cut each duck into 4, giving 8 pieces in all.

Heat a dry, non-stick frying pan. Working in batches if necessary, add the duck pieces, skin side down, and cook over a medium heat until well browned. Lots of the fat will run out, so pour it off into a bowl from time to time.

Set the duck breasts aside and put the legs in a flame proof casserole with a lid.

Pour off all but 3 tbsp of the duck fat in the frying pan, add the flour and cook very slowly over a medium heat to a deep chestnut colour.

Add the stocks and bring to the boil, stirring all the time to make a smooth sauce.

Add the redcurrant jelly, sherry, sherry vinegar, sugar, garlic and herbs and continue stirring until the redcurrant jelly has dissolved.

Add a pinch of salt, then pour the mixture over the duck legs in the casserole.

Bring to the boil on top of the stove, reduce to a simmer and cook for 1 hour. Add the duck breasts and continue cooking for a further 45 minutes.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve.


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