While the rest of Milan was on a peace ‘n’ love tip with its hippie look, Giorgio Armani showed that he doesn’t run with the pack when he unveiled his latest designs last night. Describing his Spring-Summer 2002 collection as "uncompromisingly modern,” the 67-year-old fashion maestro was as good as his word.
The impressive designs were presented at the Armani Teatro, a new Japanese-designed 682-seat venue in Porta Genova, the city’s canal district. Architect Tadao Ando, chosen by Armani for his “beautiful, functional, not too luxurious” style, has transformed the former chocolate factory into a concrete and glass palace. As well as staging catwalk shows, the building, which Armani said was “a small present” to Milan, boasts a conventional stage for theatre productions.
Many of Giorgio’s trademark designs from his 44-year career were on show at the new venue to dazzling effect: jet beads on transparent fabrics created a cobweb effect; unstructured jackets were teamed with wide-legged pants; and the feminine, gauzy dresses so beloved of the designer’s celebrity clients had a strong balletic influence.
There were boyish tuxedo suits which revealed a bare back when the models turned at the end of the runway, and the muted tones of cream, white, navy and grey gave way to a fiery red finale, with beaded scarlet flowers making a splash on sheer circular skirts, a nod to the Oriental influences that have captivated many designers – from John Galliano to Marc Jacobs – this season.
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
