“Fashion is about optics,” a former editor of mine used to proclaim on a weekly basis. To an extent, she is absolutely correct. Yet, it’s often the people behind the scenes who turn the cogs of the industry - the pattern cutters, the couturiers, the photographers, the makeup artists and the stylists.
Few work harder than Lorenzo Posocco. The mastermind behind the wardrobe of industry darling Dua Lipa, the Italian stylist has honed a portfolio that’s second-to-none. Since their initial meeting in 2015, the pair have puppeteered the style arc of dreams, with the British-Albanian’s archive evolving from 2010s It-Brit to full-fledged Matthieu Blazy muse (a moment please for Dua’s hand-beaded wedding gown.) Everyone say thank you, Lorenzo.
Outside of his well-documented work with the singer, Lorenzo has funnelled his efforts into his eponymous agency, which champions visionary creative direction and building community in sartorial spaces. His advice to emerging artists wanting to follow in his Saint Laurent booted footsteps? Find your tribe, weather the storm that is the current fashionscape and push on.
© GettyAs an Italian creative, how did your upbringing influence your career? Do you think Italian style reigns supreme over New York, London and Paris?
Well, I cannot say because I'm working with designers from different cities. I'm lucky enough to experience Paris, London and New York. London has been my home for 12 years. I grew up in Italy, in a moment where Italian fashion and culture were on top of the game. It was the Nineties, so there was Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani - all these big brands that were coming out. The Italian fashion magazines too. I feel like this Italian mark has been imprinted on my work since that moment. But moving to London helped me to open up my point of view and showed me a different way of working. I feel that London has been the most important city in my career. So, I feel in between, but of course I'm Italian. My Italian blood is there. I love Italian fashion.
© @lorenzoposoccoIt’s interesting because, bar Burberry, London lacks the really big luxury houses, but I think the city is definitely the most avant-garde…
I was lucky enough to move to London in a very exciting moment, when it was all about East London, Hackney Road and Old Street. It was the beginning of everything. We had boomboxes and Alexander McQueen was still showing. It was such an inspiring moment for fashion and for editorials. I was in my twenties and it was a massive inspiration for me.
How do you approach building a visual narrative around a client rather than simply dressing them?
Images are very important. I love putting together a mood board. I like to build stories, especially when it comes to shows and red carpets. There is always a narrative that goes into my selection. It’s important for me to look at images first and to be inspired by photography, art and movies. It's a bigger process than what people may think. It’s not just bringing some clothes and saying ‘okay, that's cute, let's do it.’
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© Getty ImagesDo you think the industry is becoming more willing to take risks, or are celebrities playing it safer than ever?
Of course with social media, celebrities are very exposed to to risk because everyone has an opinion. Nowadays, it's easier to write something bad under an Instagram post. I’m lucky because I'm working with amazing talents that like to experiment. It’s part of our job, to push the boundaries and bring some new ideas to the table. I don't care about what people think to be honest. If I feel like it's the right decision, I say let's go for it.
Do you think the relationship between celebrity, fashion and social media changed the role of a stylist?
I don't feel it has changed my way of working because I started when social media was not a thing. Only Instagram is part of my job but at the same time it is not really how I communicate my work. I could probably live without it.
Which looks do you think best represent your style or your vision as a stylist?
My work is exposed through celebrities but also through collaboration with brands. I'm closer to some brands than others, so collaborating with designers like Donatella Versace for me was just - wow. It felt like celebrating my teenage dreams - stepping into a house with Donatella and looking at sketches. It is one of the best gifts I have ever received from my work.
How do you balance a client's personal style with a brand's vision during fashion partnerships? Obviously there’s a lot of money on the line…
I'm very straightforward with the brands. I want everything to be consistent. I'm always trying to make the brand work on our side rather than go the other way and it's always very successful to be honest because brands love that. At the end of the day, it means that it's more relevant and consistent to what the deal is about. Brands want people to feel like the collaboration is real.
© @lorenzoposoccoWhich brands or designers are you particularly excited about right now?
There have been a lot of changes in fashion recently. I’m a big fan of Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo - we've been supporting Max since the very beginning, since he was a graduate. I love what Jonathan [Anderson] is doing for Dior. One of the most exciting debuts was Matthieu Blazy for Chanel, of course. We love Matthieu. I loved his vision at Bottega Veneta and now he's breathing fresh air into Chanel which was needed.
What role does vintage play in your styling process? Where are your favourite vintage stores?
I'm obsessed with vintage. I'm obsessed with buying and collecting vintage pieces - both designer pieces and unbranded pieces from the flea market. My favourite city for vintage is New York. I love James Veloria in the Lower East Side. Morphine Archive has a lot of Helmut Lang and Margiela. I also love the Rose Bowl Flea Market in LA for cowboy boots and shirts. A very big part of my work is being inspired by the past. We’ve always done that with Dua. We’ve done archival Alaïa…it’s also part of my style as well, mixing the past with the new designers. I remember when I was young, in London in my twenties, I used to go to Brick Lane and buy kilo bags of vintage pieces.
Are there any films, books or photographers that continually influence your aesthetic?
I grew up in the 90s, so that era of music. Madonna is the artist that I always look to. I'm obsessed with Chloë Sevigny - she's an icon, she's always been an icon, she's always going to be an icon. Also music videos from the Nineties.
I love all the old Gianni Versace runway images. Whenever I need some inspiration, I like to go through Getty and pull them out.
Obsessed, obsessed.
If you could style any cultural figure, past or present, who would it be and why?
George Michael. I would love to style him. He’s the ultimate menswear icon. Sexy but also elegant. The balance was always perfect. I love him so much.
© Getty ImagesWhen styling men, are they as willing to experiment as women or do they need a little bit of hand-holding?
It depends on the talent. I work with Troye Sivan for example. With Troye, it's fun, it's pop. He was wearing this bodysuit from Raf Simons’ collection. I don't think gender is the is the reason why you can play around with menswear.
Do you have any fun behind the scenes anecdotes with any celebrity clients you can share?
Ooh, the dramas. There are a lot of dramas, but I keep the dramas very confidential between me and my artist. I think it's better.
How do you unwind away from the fashion world?
I don't really. I'm always working, but if I have to take a break, the only way for me to have a day off is to be by the ocean. It’s a way to connect myself back to my roots and where I'm from. If I'm in LA during a super busy moment, I find a way to go for lunch in Malibu and take a breath.
The fashion world is feeling increasingly difficult to navigate with AI and social media - what advice would you give to emerging stylists wanting to break into the industry?
They don't have to be afraid of their vision. You need to bring your vision on the table and push for that. Trust in your vision. Keep going because at some point, someone is going to notice you. Be with people that understand your vision. Don't feel judged by the fashion industry because maybe it's not the right moment now but it's going to be the right moment in a second. Find the the right place, the right people to grow with. The right photographer, the right stylist, the right designers, and build your community. Community is important.
Creativity doesn't need doesn't need to depend on money. You can be creative without having a penny in your pocket - that's the best part. London is the place. London has always been the place for all new creatives. We need to bring everything back to that moment. That's what we need right now in fashion.
Speaking of not having any money, for those who (like me!) adore Dua Lipa’s styling but can’t afford the brands she wears - how do I emulate her style without breaking the bank?
Second-hand stores, always. If you have the imagination to create the look, you can find a lot of things in vintage stores. It’s more fun too. Be inspired by fashion, but do it your own way.
Lorenzo Posocco, will headline Westfield’s new circular fashion festival later this month. Reloved Market opens on June 25 and is set to be a four-day celebration of live music and second-hand style, in partnership with Shelter.
