This season, designers want us to party. But not in the hoist-yourself-into-the-teeny-tiny-LBD kind of way. In fact, quite the opposite. Fashion’s authoritative voices want us to dial up the glamour via sumptuous heavyweight layers, theatrical, floor-skimming silhouettes and wintertime textures reminiscent of those housed in your grandmother’s wardrobe.
No trend epitomises this desire more patently than the duster coat. Seen on the spring/summer 2027 runways of Conner Ives, Ralph Lauren, Etro, Erdem and Roberto Cavalli, dusters and kimono-inspired jackets have resurfaced on the luxury scene - receiving a high octane, high fashion reimagining.
Standout features including silk constructions, flouncing fur-trims, velvet devoré textures, moody palettes and Central Asian-inspired embroidery marked a clear departure from the duster’s working roots as a canvassed essential for cowboys and horsemen in the 19th century American West.
© Getty ImagesIt wasn’t until the roaring 1920s when the piece’s glamorous connotations emerged, a period that championed hedonistic style in all its glory. The velvet duster continued to crop up time and time again - notably through 1970s bohemian fashion (when Afghan coats reigned supreme courtesy of one Penny Lane) and the 1990s alt-grunge music scene.
© Imaxtree
© Imaxtree
© Imaxtree
© Imaxtree
© Imaxtree
© ImaxtreeDuring this era, stars including Kate Moss and Lisa Bonnet hit the red carpet in weighty velour layers, turning out dreamy ‘louche lady’ looks for all to yield inspiration from. The brands were already ahead of the curve, with household names like Valentino and Betsey Johnson funnelling plush brocaded iterations down their autumn/winter runways.
© Getty ImagesCoined ‘Moth-Eaten Maximalism’ by writer Kayla Marci, this eclectic sartorial movement is not to be slept on. Gloriously fun while also undeniably rock ‘n’ roll in spirit, this look - which also pays homage to the exquisite craftsmanship of Asian design - is the vibrant trend fashion so desperately craved.
© ImaxtreeFor those keen to ensheathe themself in elegance this season, Anna Sui, Rixo, Free People and River Island stock some stunning iterations which we've been busy eyeing up for the cooler season ahead.
Read on to discover our favourite picks below - and don’t forget to check your local vintage store in case a true one-off awaits among the rails.
Vintage-inspired dusters to shop now:
The Demi Couture Reconstituted Vintage Fur and Silk Robe
Conner Ives
Starting off strong with the crème de la crème; Conner Ives’ decadent fur robe is crafted from lustrous crepe silk satin, embroidered with delicate cherry blossoms and finished with plush vintage trims at the cuffs and collar. Its relaxed, robe-like silhouette gives the opulent piece a distinctly glamorous, old-Hollywood feel.
Micah Embroidered Jacket
Rixo
Inspired by traditional kimono design, Rixo’s Michah Jacket radiates rock ‘n’ roll glamour. A playful, faux fur trim and white floral embroidery set against an inky black backdrop will set you apart from the crowd with ease. A beautiful investment piece to cherish for years to come.
Quilted Velvet Duster Coat
Anna Sui
Kimono and duster silhouettes play a central role in Anna Sui's effervescent, girlish collections. Steal the show in the designer's luxurious floor-length layer, crafted from unmissable pearlescent quilted velvet with furry trimmings.
Green Satin Embroidered Faux Fur Trim Kimono
River Island
Velveteen dusters teeter on the pricier side, but not River Island's. The high street brand offers an affordable take on the trend, with this mint-blue option providing the perfect staple for after-dark events.
Mercer Faux Fur Collar Tailored Coat
Free People
A dazzling ode to Seventies glamour, Free People's Mercer coat is set to turn heads with its tailored design and embroidered finish. Available in two timeless colourways ripe for the picking.
Midnight Blue Embroidered Penny Lane Coat
The Hippie Shake
The Hippie Shake is a treasure trove of Seventies-inspired staples. So naturally, the brand is home to an array of Penny Lane coats to peruse this season. We love the midnight blue colourway and belted structure of this embroidered gem.
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