Bringing a snap of your favourite celebrity's, influencer's or supermodel's hairstyle to the salon is just one part of choosing the perfect hair colour this autumn. If you're going to get highlights, there are so many trends to choose from, but there's one key factor to take into consideration: your hair type. Highlights on straight locks aren't the same as for curly hair; each needs a different technique when applying colour. Professional hairstylists hold the keys to getting the best highlights for curly hair, and we're passing them on so you can choose wisely.
Which highlights to choose according to your hair texture
The internal and external structures of straight and curly hair are different. The bonds that hold keratin chains together have a different pattern in curly hair, which is why it's often finer than straight hair, even if it looks for voluminous.
© Getty ImagesAccording to professional hairstylist João Soares from Madrid's Maison Eduardo Sánchez salon. "Curly hair also has fewer cuticle layers, and those layers are more open than in straight hair. This makes it a less resistant hair type."
According to hair guru Soares, the advantage of colouring curly hair is that less oxidation is needed to achieve the same lightening effect, which causes less damage. However, because curly hair is naturally more fragile, it's also much easier to damage it during the highlighting process than it is to damage straight hair.
© PintrestThe key to a successful result is for the hairstylist to find the right balance and choose the correct toner that will bring the hair's pH back to a healthy level (around 5.5). So a hair colourist's job is not just to pick the right colour but also to select the correct toner to refine the color and neutralise unwanted tones.
Colour correction is the primary role, but the overall toning and finishing process also helps to seal the hair cuticle, which in turn helps prevent the new color from washing out and protects the hair from external damage.
Other factors to consider
© Getty ImagesIn addition to structure, there are also other hair traits that will help determine what highlights you should get. Rosi Fernández, from Madrid's Ananda Ferdí Salon, outlines them:
- Texture and porosity: Since curly hair's cuticle is naturally more open, it absorbs products easily but also loses moisture quickly, leading to dryness. This requires a more gentle approach to highlights, both in colouring techniques and extra care in treatments as curly hair is usually drier and more prone to damage. Highlighting techniques for curly hair should use milder, more moisturising products to protect the hair's natural elasticity and prevent damage.
- Thickness and fragility: With fine hair, it is important to be careful with colouring and lightening techniques; thick hair is more resilient and can handle stronger products and more intense techniques. The cuticle of straight hair, meanwhile, tends to be flatter and more closed than curly; this allows for more precise control over the colour and definition of the highlights.
- Hair texture: On curly hair, highlights should be applied strategically to enhance the natural movement of the curls; the placement is crucial to avoid a splotchy or uneven appearance. On straight hair, highlights typically appear more uniform and linear. The flatter surface allows for greater control over the placement and a more defined look from root to tip.
"The approach to highlights shouldn't be the same for straight and curly hair because each hair type has unique characteristics that influence how they react to colouring products and techniques," says Fernández.
Expert colourists Blondie Madrid advise that you should "always go to a professional colourist if you want to keep your hair healthy". An expert touch is particularly important for curly hair. "A bad colouring job can affect both your hair texture and the shape of your curls. If your stylist takes the necessary steps to avoid hair damage, all you'll need is a good curly hair routine at home." All in all, be sure to ask your stylist about products that best suit your hair's unique needs.
