There’s nothing idle about Eric. From the moment I arrived in Cotignac for the launch of “Idle in Provence – A brief history of Thyme” – the tale of Eric’s 50-year adventure turning a ramshackle shed into a beautiful home, a non-stop roller-coaster of fun ensued. The book, which Eric describes as a “shack to shackeaux “ story is hilarious and heart-warming in equal measure. This Holy Grail of travel memoirs counterpoints the building of Monty Python’s comedic colossus, with the gradual construction of his beloved rural retreat, with all its comedic calamities, trials and triumphs.
© Getty ImagesFar from the Monty madness
In 1971, two years after the success of Monty Python’s Flying Circus launched loveable Geordie lad Eric Idle into the stratosphere of global superstardom, he stumbled upon a ramshackle property in the south of France. “It wasn’t so much a fixer-upper as a run-away-and-avoider…We bought it immediately,’ he laughingly explained. He toyed with suitable names. “Disgraceland appealed to the Elvis fan in me. Chez Guevara seemed a little too lefty and Chateau Crapeau, Toad Hall, too ironic.” And so he settled on La Hatue Terrisse – the hot terrace.
© Lyn Ashley; Penguin Random HouseAs the comedy troupe pressures of “dressing up as a carrot or freezing in a frock screaming at other British men dressed up as their mothers” grew more intense, this dreamy, idyllic medieval town of terracotta roofs and cobbled courtyards, became an oasis of tranquillity far from Monty madness.
An untouched Provencal haven
The village of Cotignac is officially recognised as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The Most Beautiful Villages in France). With its graceful squares surrounding bubbling fountains and pastel painted wooden shop shutters flung wide to catch the dappled light, it’s picture-perfect. Unlike the over-touristed hotspots of the Riviera, this untouched Provencal region is a time warp back to a slower way of life, vibrant with artistic creativity and deeply connected to nature.
© Eric Idle; Penguin Random HouseBack as far as 7500 BC, the dramatic limestone escarpment above Cotignac sheltered troglodyte communities who took refuge from marauders in its cool, dark caves. For two Euros you can clamber up into those caverns and crevices to drink in the sweeping views of cascading grape and olive groves with towering pines needling the cloudless blue sky like exclamation marks. And who wouldn’t be wowed?
Celebrity spotting without the fuss
The whole town is like a movie set; a fantasy made flesh by the sight of George Clooney, Brad Pitt and other illustrious locals strolling down the café-strewn main street. The laid-back shop keepers never make a fuss or flare an over-excited nostril. Life just continues to roll on at a gentle, elegant pace.
© HerveFabrePhotosOver tasty regional rose, Eric shared stories of some of his famous friends who had also found sanctuary at La Haute Terrisse. Celebritocracy such as David Bowie, George Harrison, Harrison Ford, Art Garfunkel, Penny Marshall, Robyn Williams and Ronnie Wood were all warmly but insouciantly welcomed into the sanguine bosom of this historical haven.
Where the regular people stay
Tucked into a cosy corner of the village is the Hotel Lou Calen, a refined yet unpretentious, sustainable retreat, featuring a Michelin Green Star restaurant, experimental bistro, on-site microbrewery, and one of France’s only specialist pastis bars. My spacious suite was a calming blend of luxury and comfortable simplicity, with panoramic views from a wide, private balcony.
© Melanie RetamarTo support the village’s artistic community, the hotel’s innovative entrepreneurial owner, Graham Porter, converted the foyer into a book shop. While Eric sat signing copies, queuing fans compared Python memorabilia. One devotee proudly showed me the Monty Python-themed tattoos coiling up his leg, talking me through his fleshy fresco depictions of Eric, John Cleese, Michael Palin and others.
© Lou CalenThe meaning of life
That evening, we were joined by Brian Cox and other pals at the hotel restaurant for a delectable feast of wood-fired, farm-to-table Provencal cuisine (thankfully Spam-free!). After dinner we meandered into the aromatic gardens for an open air screening of Monty Python Live at the Hollywood Bowl. On another night, we lazed under the dazzling Milky Way to watch The Meaning of Life.
And do you know what? As I moon-bathed in my deck chair, breathing in the fragrant lavender scented air, I realised that Eric has found it. Could there be any more meaningful way to live than entertaining friends and family in a charming home you built from scratch in an exquisite Provencal village, surrounded by lush green valleys, drenched in love and laughter.
Eric’s life in Cotignac is best summed up by a quip he shared with me over our night cap. “Goodbye cruel circus…I’m off to join the world.”
How to book: Accommodations at Hotel Lou Calen cost from £172 ($233).
