Valencia is blessed with an average of 300 days of sunshine each year, and combines stunning green spaces and beaches with a vibrant arts scene and diverse shopping. The birthplace of paella is also home to one of Europe’s most famous football teams – making it the perfect place to trial a city break with my sons.
The best place to start
Walking Turia Garden is the best introduction to the city. This public park winds through Valencia for over five miles on the former riverbed of the River Turia, which was diverted away from the city after the Great Flood of 1957. Although we were there during a heatwave, the bridges and trees provided plenty of shade as we strolled to the Old Town, spotting woodpeckers (and more than one trumpet player) as we went. Visit in late May, like we did, and you’ll be lucky enough to witness the purple bloom of Jacaranda trees.
© Getty ImagesArt, culture and fun rolled into one
We entered the Old Town through El Carmen, the city’s bohemian district, where the narrow streets are a canvas for hundreds of dazzling murals and pieces of street art. Once in the Old Town, the main attraction is Valencia Cathedral, largely built between the 13th and 15th centuries and home to what’s widely believed to be the Holy Grail. You can buy tickets to enter or just admire the beautiful architecture from outside.
© Amy ReiterVisiting the buzzy Mercado Food Market – one of the oldest markets in Europe – is also a must. With more than 400 stalls selling local ingredients and traditional Valencian products, it’s a great way to immerse yourself in the local culture.
Turning back into Turia Garden, we made our way to the park’s Eastern end and the breathtaking Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences). The complex includes an IMAX cinema, planetarium, science museum and the largest aquarium in Europe. Its architecture is so futuristic and otherworldly that it was recently used as a set for the Star Wars TV series ‘Andor’.
© Amy ReiterLast chance to visit the home of football legends
Top of my two football-mad boys’ list was visiting the Estadio de Mestalla, home to Valencia CF. Opened in 1923, it’s the oldest stadium in Spain’s top division, La Liga, and only around for one more season before the club moves into a new home. Tours are provided in English and take you into the stands, dressing rooms, dugouts and club museum. We’d unanimously recommend taking the chance to marvel at the steepest stadium in European football while you still can.
Spend time on yourself
Valencia caters for every shopper but I spent most of my time in the numerous vintage stores scattered from the Old Town to the trendy Ruzafa district. One of my favourite finds was Gnomo in the Old Town, a curated gift shop selling an eclectic selection of prints, tote bags and cards from local and Spanish artists.
People watching and paella
Valencia is the birthplace of paella and you can’t visit without trying Spain’s national dish. We found Masusa in the Ruzafa area, a relaxed restaurant mostly frequented by locals. We really enjoyed it and it’s well worth heading here if you like a bit more vibe and bustle while you eat. The area is known as Valencia’s Soho, and the abundance of outdoor-seating restaurants allows you to people-watch the city’s trendsetters between courses.
© Getty ImagesOur favourite restaurant, though, was an Italian just a ten-minute walk from our hotel. La Forcola is an inviting family-run place where home-made pasta and wood-fired pizzas are the specialities. We particularly loved the seafood pasta, Italian cheese board, cold cut meats and homemade fresh bread. They also do a menu del dia (served until 4pm). Offered at most restaurants in Valencia, this is a really affordable way to feed a family – costing around €15 per person for three courses.
Another real hit with our boys was Rey Taco in the Old Town. This Mexican spot’s counter service and small seating area may give off a fast-food vibe but the freshly-cooked, reasonably priced tacos sizzled with flavour and were a great option for the four of us. Sadly the kids couldn’t partake in the frozen margaritas, so I had to drink them.
Our best secret finds
Two of our best finds were off the beaten track and we stumbled on them during a day at the beach in La Malva-rosa. Bikini Cabanyal – open in the morning until 4pm for brunch and coffee and again in the evening – was one such spot. Famous for its pastrami sandwiches and vibrant atmosphere, it has a bathroom that features an intriguing red button and the words “If you press this button, you risk a better mood”. Those brave enough to press it get a bathroom experience under disco lights while music blasts out around them.
© Amy ReiterIn the evening, we stopped at A Fuego Lento, where the attentive and welcoming owner served us pizzas that were just as incredible in taste as they were in size.
And… relax
To rest our legs after all that sightseeing, we spent our final afternoon by the sea. Malvarrossa is the city’s famous beach, but just a short walk further north, Patacona has the same warm waters and clean sands but is a bit quieter. Setting up with a parasol and a couple of sunbeds costs €30 for the day, and you can make the four-mile trip from the city centre by bus or tram.
© Getty ImagesSimple to get around
In fact, we found it easy to use all forms of public transport in Valencia. The most cost-effective option was the SUMA 10 pass, which entitles you to 10 journeys by bus, tram, metro and various train lines, with no expiration date.
Where to stay
We stayed at the excellent and modern Novotel Valencia Lavant. The rooftop pool and terrace bar boast absorbing views across the city and made for some blissful late-afternoon chilling after a day’s sightseeing. Our Suite was perfect for my family of four, featuring two bedrooms, a sizeable bathroom and more hanging and drawer space than you’d usually find in a city hotel.
© Amy ReiterThe king-size bed in the master bedroom provided a very comfortable night’s sleep while my two boys had no complaints about the pull-out sofa bed in their room. We’d have happily lied in for longer but breakfast was too good to miss, with the buffet offering something for all tastes – meats and cheeses, cooked breakfasts, fruit, cereal and pastries (including gluten free options).
Amenities aside, one of the hotel’s great attractions is its location. The Old Town is just a 20-minute walk though the picturesque Turia Garden, while the nearby metro station and bus stops offer quick and easy routes into other parts of the city.
How to book it: Double rooms at Novotel Valencia Lavant start from £152 per night including breakfast, access to the rooftop pool and fitness centre. Spacious family rooms fit two adults and two children aged up to 16.
Amy was a guest of Novotel Valencia Lavant. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
