Fantasy and femininity dominated London Fashion Week during Thursday's collections, with influences ranging from Shakespeare to tropical escapes. And the big names weren’t the only ones being toasted – young designers carving a niche for themselves are creating a lot of the buzz.
Well-known names included Madonna favourite Elspeth Gibson, whose fairy-like collection was inspired by A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Irish designer Paul Costelloe, much admired by the late Princess Diana, went for a “more extreme” look for his “Fantasy Island” collection, which included sexy sheer tops and summer dresses with bright floral accents.
“London is the birthplace of world fashion and has maintained a certain independence and flair,” said Paul, who launched his womenswear label 23 years ago. “Talent and creativity are very much a part of the industry here.”
The city’s fashion week has fewer superstar labels than Milan or New York, but boasts some very hot up-and-comers. American Vogue editor Anna Wintour was in the front row to view the work of Russell Sage, who was recently signed to create a line for the high street chain Top Shop. The designer’s efforts to “echo the quality of the past” in his collection include a skirt made of 18th-century woven silk originally used as wall panelling, a jacket made of wool encrusted with diamond dust, and seven medieval-inspired dresses – all made from reworked antique fabric – each a colour of the rainbow.
Another emerging talent is Warren Noronha, whose last collection will be used in the upcoming X-Men sequel. The 25-year-old designer chose model Jodie Kidd for his catwalk show, which showcased dramatic silhouettes inspired by the classic French film Belle du Jour.
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Photo: © Alphapress.com
