When it comes to skincare routines, cleanse, tone and moisturise is a mantra that has been drilled into most of us over the years. But while extra steps like peel, prime and protect are likely to have been added along the way, how many of you have a checklist that reads cleanse, tone and moisturise… and then moisturise again…? Well, if like me you’ve tried the Japanese ‘double moisturising’ trend, then quite possibly.
My first foray into double moisturising came, unwittingly, a few years ago. After an especially cold winter, my dry, dull skin was craving hydration and moisture but simply wasn’t tolerating the thick textures I was slathering on. As well as not addressing the problem, the heavy moisturiser I was applying was having an adverse effect and causing a flare up of my perioral dermatitis. That meant I was having to contend with tight, flaky, red patches around my nose and mouth as well as skin that still felt thirsty.
According to dermatologists that I’ve spoken to since, thick, occlusive moisturisers are a common trigger of conditions like perioral dermatitis because they trap heat and sweat and can unbalance bacteria in an already compromised skin barrier. Undeterred, I tried a different tack and once the dermatitis had retreated, tried again, this time ditching the single thick layer for several layers of thinner, more fluid products. This, I discovered, was the key to keeping my skin happy, and since that epiphany, I’ve not looked back. “Layering thinner products with different textures and consistencies allows for multi-level hydration and also can be a bit more manageable for the skin,” says facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson, aesthetician, skin therapist and founder of KMP Skin, who uses plenty of lightweight but intensive layers in her treatments.
© IBAI ACEVEDOThe J-Beauty philosophy; hydration over hype
Like many other Eastern skincare routines, Japanese skincare takes an intentionally layered approach to looking after skin, which means that every step has a clear purpose. Unlike K-beauty however, which is known for cutting-edge innovation, flashy ingredients and an obsession with glass skin, J-beauty takes more of long-game approach, focusing on prevention, preservation and ultimately, deep hydration. While some elements like cleansers and serums are found in both Eastern and Western regimes, the Japanese double moisturising trend emphasises the importance of extra hydrating products in and around these staples. Think water-based humectant toners and essences that follow your cleanser and provide deep down hydration, and water-based emulsions applied after your serum to lock all that hydration in.
What exactly is double moisturising?
I should caveat that the term “double moisturising” can be a bit misleading; in my case, it’s more of a multi-moisturising situation as I tend to use an essence after my toner and a mist before my emulsion, but the intention is the same. Not only does this meticulous approach improve the fundamental hydration of skin but it also improves its innate health by supporting the skin barrier function. On top of that it makes everything else you use more effective, which is surely the goal of a well-crafted routine. “The process of double moisturising increases skin hydration and results in increased product penetration when we apply our moisturiser and treatment serums,” adds dermatologist and founder of Dr Loretta skincare, Dr Loretta Ciraldo.
Why Japanese toners are different
If you’re baulking at the mention of toners, don’t. Japanese-style toners, or lotions, are a far cry from traditional drying Western ones. “Japanese lotions are milky, hydrating formulations that will boost skin hydration, vs. more traditional toners which often are generally alcohol, acidic, or drying in nature,” adds Ciraldo. “The traditional toner conception is old, created when we used soap to cleanse and we needed to lower the pH of skin surface after rinsing off soap, since soap damages skin's pH balance. Now that we have replaced alkaline soaps with pH-balanced non-soap cleansers, there is less need for traditional toners and milky lotion like Japanese lotions are what I recommend to my patients as the replacement.”
The case for adding an essence
Essences may be a core element in a J-beauty routine but they’re relatively new to Western consumers. To understand exactly what they do and why we should all be using one, Mackenzie Paterson explains more. “They’re hydration-givers essentially,’ she says. “An analogy I use is to imagine to a pot plant that hasn’t been watered for ages, and one that is watered three times a week.” She continues, “If you tipped a shot glass of water into each of them, the one that is more frequently watered, would absorb the liquid much quicker than the one with very dry soil. Think of an essence like the water in the shot glass; it allows everything you use on top of it like a serum or moisturiser to get in quicker and deeper as it provides hydration at a deeper level with its small molecular structure.”
And while essences were once new to me, since I started incorporating them, I would now not be without. Unlike traditional moisturisers that tend to have a higher oil to water ratio, essences are more fluid with a higher water to oil ratio, meaning they’re both refreshing (especially in the heat) and more effective at penetrating the skin. Finally, to lock everything in, I opt for a water-based emulsion over a cream which does the job without leaving me my skin feeling overwhelmed or greasy.
Is double moisturising worth the extra steps?
If you’re one of many who are looking to cut down on the number of products you use rather than add more, the idea of this routine might not necessarily appeal. And while I understand, all I can say is that for me, the results–the dewiness, the clarity, the plumpness–have been worth the extra few steps. And while that alone is enough for me, there’s also something about leaning into the ritual of it all, about being slower, more deliberate and more considered about what I’m putting on my face that feels incredibly calming and grounding. If you still need convincing, the consensus from experts is that this is a trend that works for everyone, from those with dry or dehydrated skin to those with acne-prone skin that needs hydration minus the heavy layers. “This approach is excellent for all skin types and I recommend it especially for environmentally damaged skin, hormonal skin, dehydrated skin, acneic skin, and everyone who wants to enhance visible improvement from an existing regimen,” says Ciraldo. “It will potentiate not only hydration but also better penetration of all of your skincare regimen to improve visual improvement.” What’s not to love?
The best double moisturising products to add into your routine
Tatcha The Essence, £63
A trio of fermented Japanese superfoods helps soften, repair and smooth skin.
Dr Loretta Barrier Repair Milky Essence, £50
The perfect, lightweight layer to use after cleansing, this contains niacinamide and ectoin to repair and refine.
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Probiotics Barrier Essence, £21
Ideal for strengthening a compromised skin barrier, this is packed full of plumping ceramides.
Byoma Hydrating Milky Toner, £12
A great choice especially for sensitive skin, this affordable toner in enriched with hydrating polyglutamic acid and ectoin to calm inflamed skin.
Thank You Farmer Rice Pure Milky Hydrating Mist, £20
It doesn’t get more refreshing than this mist which is formulated to deliver long-term hydration as well as instant moisture from shea butter and squalane.
Hada Labo Tokyo Anti Ageing Super Hydrator, £18.99
Four types of hyaluronic acid mean hydration is covered in this lovely light emulsion, while collagen, retinol and tetra-peptides improve bounce and soften fine lines.
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Serum, £79.90
Strengthens the skin's moisture barrier, boosts radiance, and improves firmness thanks to extracts including reishi mushroom and power fermented camellia+.
Suqqu Aqufons Water Tuning Gel, £54
A water gel mask that leaves skin feeling fortified, hydrated and refreshed.
The Inkey List Omega Water Cream Moisturiser, £9.60
A great, affordable option for thirsty skin that needs instant and long-term replenishment and hydration.
Clarins Hydra-Essentiel [HA²] Emulsion, £42
![Clarins Hydra-Essentiel [HA²] Emulsion](https://images.hellomagazine.com/horizon/portrait/7934f3b9e6ee-clarins-hydra-essentiel-emulsion.jpg)
Loaded with hyaluronic acid and organic Damascus rose water, this light moisturiser plumos and hydrates and leaves skin with a glowy, dewy finish.
