Since I first tried retinoids – the benchmark ingredient for improving skin’s appearance – they’ve become an ardent addiction. I started with retinol, gradually increasing strength and staying loyal for years, pausing only during pregnancies when its use is advised against. Convinced it softened my expression lines and keen to delay injectables, I eventually upgraded to prescription tretinoin. Until another pregnancy. Now in my 40s, with more reactive skin, I’ve returned to retinoids via retinal, which feels like the perfect middle ground for midlife.
Why retinal is different - and perfect for seasoned skin
“To summarise the retinoid family, retinoic acid is the purest and strongest form of vitamin A – you’ll find this in prescription-only products such as tretinoin,” explains skincare authority and founder of Skin Rocks, Caroline Hirons. Less irritating on the skin, retinaldehyde (most commonly referred to as retinal) is one stage of conversion away from retinoic acid, compared to retinol’s two. “It still packs a punch and is clinically proven to work 11 times faster than retinol, making it a good option for seasoned retinoid users who want to level up.”
And I did. “During midlife, the skin undergoes significant structural changes as oestrogen levels decline, collagen and elastin production slow, and skin loses firmness and elasticity,” says Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer and co-founder of Medik8, which has championed retinal since 2018. “Cell turnover also becomes more sluggish, meaning dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, resulting in a duller, uneven complexion,” he continues. In line with hormonal changes, skin can also become more sensitive. For me, retinal delivers for all these reasons. Potent, yet gentle enough for daily use, “it stimulates skin cell reveal and encourages collagen production, making skin look more radiant, toned and creating a smoother skin texture,” Isaacs says. “The balance that retinal offers of efficacy without compromising the skin’s integrity makes it particularly suitable for midlife.”
That said, retinal has become a beauty buzz ingredient regardless of age, which Isaacs feels may reflect a broader shift in how people are approaching skincare: “moving away from aggressive ingredients that deliver results at the cost of irritation, and towards formulas that are equally effective but kinder to the skin's health and integrity”. Now, we expect all the gain from our products without the pain.
© Leandro_CrespiHow to use retinal in your skincare routine
Of course, you should still proceed with caution, the experts caveat. “Retinoids are multitasking ingredients that can help target a range of skin concerns, and everyone’s skin responds differently to active ingredients,” flags Hirons. “Be patient, and don’t rush into using a stronger formula than your skin can handle – build up your tolerance slowly. This is a marathon, not a sprint.”
© ADAM NIEDZIULKAr533467334rksaverHer Skin Rocks products, which I really rate, offer three tiers of strength. “You can find retinal in Skin Rocks Retinoid 2, and in our advanced strength option, Retinoid 3, where we combine a higher-strength retinal with adapalene, another fantastic member of the retinoid family.” If you are particularly sensitive or new to retinoids, she suggests trying a HPR formula first, found in the brand’s Retinoid 1. “HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) is a retinol ester, meaning it is oil-based, giving it a low potential for irritation, while still giving results.”
Medik8, meanwhile, has a comprehensive Crystal Retinal ladder, explains Isaacs: “six progressive strengths designed to take your skin from its very first encounter with retinal all the way up to expert level.” It starts with Strength 1, specifically formulated for sensitive skin. “The key to sensitive skin using retinal, or any active ingredient, is taking a ‘low and slow’ approach,” he advises. “Patch testing is always important when introducing any new product, but essential for sensitive skin. Apply a small amount to the jawline or behind the ear and leave undisturbed for 24 hours. If you experience no irritation, use the product as per the instructions.”
As for a veteran user like myself wanting to amplify retinal’s benefits, Hirons suggests alternating it with an exfoliating acid. “Retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are fantastic for midlife skin, as you’re both accelerating cell turnover and sloughing off dead skin cells, giving you brighter, smoother, more radiant skin,” she says. “However, don’t use them at the same time – use your acid in the daytime and retinoid in the evening, or alternate which days you use them. And sunscreen is a non-negotiable, always.”
The five best retinoid serums to add into your routine
When you think retinal, you think Medik8, and its laddered system. While it has six levels, they’re not numbered one-to-six, which can be confusing. “Strength 1 is formulated for sensitive skin, while Strength 3 is the ideal entry point for beginners,” Isaacs tells us. “From there, Strength 6 suits regular retinal users, Strength 10 is designed for more advanced users, and Strengths 20 and 24 are for experienced and expert users.” I started my retinal journey on 6 and am now on 10, looking to take it to 20. The formula – a creamy, silky-textured serum – sinks in instantly without leaving any residue.
Skin Diligent CEL™ Retinal Serum, £74
A highly praised formula, this ultra-light serum from Skin Diligent has been clinically proven to deliver multiple anti-ageing benefits. It combines 0.15 per cent slow-release retinal with its proprietary CEL™ Complex, blending skin-strengthening peptides and regenerative exosomes.
As Hirons explained, the Skin Rocks Retinoid 3 is an advanced option, cocktailing retinal with adapalene – another potent retinoid. Like all masterfully formulated Skin Rocks products, it delivers stellar results, with independent clinical studies showing significant improvements in wrinkles, sun spots and skin laxity. It’s as potent as some prescription retinoids, but feels far more luxurious.
The Inkey List Advance Retinal Serum, £15
A great budget option, The Inkey List’s retinal also earns rave reviews from users reporting noticeably smoother skin. Lightweight and hydrating, it’s an ideal retinal starting point for those already confident with retinol.
Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment, £63
Paula’s Choice products are always thoughtfully curated and reliably effective. The sophisticated Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment combines retinal with oleyl adapalenate - a precursor that converts into adapalene once absorbed. Independent clinical studies report improved texture and lines for 100 per cent of users.
