Like many of my millennial peers, acrylics were my introduction to the world of professional manicures – thick, square-shaped extensions with a chunky white tip, proudly tapped on school desks long before ASMR videos (or Instagram) existed. Then shellac took over, and eventually, sometime around 2020, our nail aspirations grew up: deep cuticles, elegant squoval shapes, skinny French tips and minimalist nail art replaced the blocky designs of old.
We were suddenly willing to sit in the salon chair for two hours for a ‘your nails but better’ manicure. Systems like BIAB and Bio Sculpture soared in popularity alongside more detailed techniques – the Russian and Ukrainian manicure among them. Recently, I had the chance to try the latter for myself, booking in for a Ukrainian manicure (£58) at London's BrowChuk. Four weeks later, my nails still looked remarkably pristine.
So, what exactly makes a Ukrainian manicure different? Ahead, I quizzed BrowChuk founder Vlada Klym on what sets it apart from other techniques and whether its precision really is the secret to a longer-lasting finish.
What is a Ukrainian manicure?
“A Ukrainian manicure is a highly precise manicure technique focused on meticulous preparation, a refined cuticle area and a beautifully clean, natural-looking finish,” explains Vlada. Rather than being defined by a particular brand or gel system, it’s the level of detail and precision that sets the technique apart.
Something I noticed during my appointment was just how much time was dedicated to prep (around 50 minutes of my 80-minute appointment). “Prep is incredibly important,” says Vlada. Unlike a traditional manicure, the nails and cuticles aren't soaked in water first. Instead, a combination of a professional e-file and manual techniques are used to carefully tidy the cuticle area while the skin is dry.
According to Vlada, this gives the technician greater control over what is removed. “We carefully remove only the dry cuticle that genuinely needs to be removed, while preserving the healthy surrounding tissue.” The amount of cuticle work required depends entirely on the individual client. “Going unnecessarily deep can irritate the skin and may actually affect how long the cuticle continues to look neat.”
Once prepped, my base and colour were applied with equal precision. Having visited my fair share of London nail salons, I’ve occasionally found that gel can sometimes end up looking thick or slightly blobby. This was the opposite: thin, smooth and beautifully shaped, with an incredibly clean finish around the cuticle.
How does it differ from other manicures?
“BIAB and Bio Sculpture are primarily product systems rather than manicure techniques,” explains Vlada. “They can absolutely be incorporated into a Ukrainian-style manicure.” In other words, a Ukrainian manicure refers primarily to how the nails are prepared and the precision of the finished result, rather than the gel itself.
The distinction between Ukrainian and Russian manicures is a little less clear-cut. “There is some overlap between Ukrainian and Russian manicure techniques, particularly in the detailed preparation of the cuticle and the use of professional electric-file techniques,” says Vlada. In fact, terminology can vary between countries and technicians, and there isn't one universally defined procedure followed by every salon.
At BrowChuk, the product is selected according to the individual nail, from different bases and builder gels to strengthening and fibre-reinforced formulas. In my case, my technician used a fibre-reinforced gel, which contains tiny fibres to provide additional strength and durability – particularly useful for thin, flexible or breakage-prone nails. But, as Vlada stresses, “fibre gel is not what defines a Ukrainian manicure.”
How long does it last?
Just shy of five weeks, in my case – which has to be a personal record. After two weeks, there was barely any visible regrowth (it probably helped that I opted for a neutral, soft pink shade). By week four, the regrowth was noticeable enough that I was ready to have them redone. But without time to schedule an appointment, I kept them on for another five days – remarkably, all 10 nails were still completely chip-free.
Vlada generally recommends a maintenance appointment every three to five weeks, depending on your natural nail growth, lifestyle and the product used. “Because the application is so precise, even after three weeks of natural nail growth, the manicure can still look exceptionally neat and elegant,” she explains. Factors including exposure to water and chemicals, natural nail flexibility and home care can all affect how long yours lasts.
Why are they becoming so popular?
Longevity undoubtedly has something to do with it. With the product applied so precisely around the cuticle, the manicure can continue to look neat even as the nail grows. “Clients are becoming much more educated about their nails,” says Vlada. “They are looking for more than just a beautiful colour – they want precision, longevity, hygiene and healthy-looking natural nails.”
Social media has helped raise the bar, too, with close-up nail content making it easier than ever to scrutinise the finer details of a manicure. “Clients can see close-up results and appreciate the difference that meticulous preparation can make,” adds Vlada.
What should you look for when booking a Ukrainian manicure?
With such precise cuticle work involved, choosing an experienced technician is key. Vlada recommends paying attention to hygiene and sterilisation, as well as looking closely at examples of their work – ideally manicures that are a few weeks old, rather than just freshly finished.
At BrowChuk, instruments undergo a multi-step sterilisation process and are individually sealed, while files and buffers are used for individual clients. A good technician should also tailor both the prep and product to your natural nails. “An experienced technician should never simply use the same product on every client,” says Vlada. “Product selection should be based on the nail’s condition, flexibility, length and the client’s lifestyle.”
