As I type this, I'm distracted by my nails. It's been three weeks since I had my last gel manicure, and the regrowth is starting to trouble me.
One thing that isn't bothering me? The hysteria surrounding the 'gel polish ban', which came into effect in the UK on August 15th.
The ban refers to one ingredient found in gel polish- trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, also known as TPO, to save me writing those long, long words. (Before I go on, let me reassure, gel polish manis will still be readily available, just using products without said ingredient).
TPO is the ingredient that helps your manicure to cure quickly under UV light. It has been banned as an 'extreme precaution' according to leading nail industry publication, Scratch Magazine (where I had my first ever beauty journalism job, if you're interested).
The TPO ban means that from this week, brands will no longer be able to manufacture products with the ingredient in. Nail technicians will be able to buy products created before the ban until 14 February 2027, and they're allowed to use products with TPO in until they run out.
The ban has been put in place after studies of the ingredient on animals linked high consumption of TPO to fertility and reproductive issues, but this is based on how a substance might behave under a 'worst-case' situation, when our bodies are exposed to a very large amount.
But I promise, you really don't need to worry.
You don't need to worry about TPO
To reiterate, you don't need to worry that gel manis are going to disappear. There are already TPO-free gel polishes out there, and these will become the norm, with no impact on the long-lasting, high-shine look of gel polish with TPO in.
Secondly, if your salon of choice is still using products with TPO for the timebeing, it's also not a concern. The tiny amount of TPO used in nail products is over a thousand times less than the amount that could have any negative effect on fertility. Plus, these products are applied to the nail, so the potential for the ingredient to be absorbed into our bodies is even smaller.
Not convinced by my blasé approach to the gel polish ban? Perhaps cosmetic safety assessor, toxicologist and pharmacist Mohammed Kanadil will reassure you with his scientific explanation.
"Consumers shouldn't be worried if they are exposed to TPO-containing products during a salon visit," he states. "The risk of systemic exposure is extremely low due to the fact that TPO's mechanism of action requires the breaking of the molecule itself when exposed to curing light."
Nail expert and Editorial Director at Scratch, Helena Biggs, has a few wise words to share, too. "It's important for nail enthusiasts not to panic about the TPO ban – it's highly unlikely that nail products containing TPO will cause harm when used correctly."
She delves further into how TPO was tested, explaining trials were carried out on rats, orally - in high doses - and found to impact their fertility; thus a ban was introduced firstly in the EU, and now in GB (in stages).
"However, this testing on rodents bears no resemblance to how TPO is used in cosmetics, such as gel nail products.
"We, as humans, don't ingest the chemical, and only minor amounts are used in gel-based products and applied to nails. The purpose? TPO is a photoinitiator that helps gel products cure quickly under UV light and maintain colour stability. It is broken down very quickly in the curing process and exposure - particularly harmful levels - is highly unlikely when enjoying a manicure or pedicure."
If you are concerned, Helena's level-headed advice will see you through. "If you're worried, message your professional in advance of your appointment to ask about the products, and look on the ingredients list of the product(s) being used for Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide.
"Whether consumers are mindful of TPO inclusion in gel nail products or not, they should check that their chosen nail professional has had adequate training and holds accredited certification, so they are following proper health and safety practices and that nail products are applied as intended. Nail professionals who have spent time, money and energy into such training will be more than happy to share details if asked."
My final thoughts
This mass panic reminds me of a few years ago when out of nowhere, everyone became paranoid about the dangers of UV lights on our fingertips – again, the amount of time our hands are in lamps is minuscule.
That panic subsided, and this one will too. But if you are worried, simply ask your salon if the products they're using are free from TPO. But remember, they're legally allowed to use such polishes until they run out, so we're a long way off TPO polish disappearing completely.
