How many times have you said—or heard someone say—"I need to swap my moisturiser, I think my skin's got used to it and it's stopped working"?
Well, whenever that thought has crossed your mind, you've been completely off track. As dermatologist and founder of Madrid clinic Oneskinmed Dr Lidia Maroñas confirms, your skin doesn't get used to creams at all. In her own words: "It's a total myth."
Why your skin doesn't actually build a tolerance to active ingredients
"Skin doesn't become immune to active ingredients or get 'bored' of their benefits. A well-formulated cream that suits your needs will keep doing its job over the long haul," explains the dermatologist.
She clarifies: "The confusion comes down to tachyphylaxis—when certain medications lose their effect—or a lack of obvious progress once the initial problem's been sorted, giving the false impression that the product's stopped working."
So, why do so many people notice better results during the first few weeks of starting a new routine? We answer this and more below.
Hormones, seasons, and expectations: why your skin's needs shift
In reality, this feeling stems from external factors or natural shifts in your skin. "Skin changes with age, hormones, the seasons, lifestyle, and stress levels," Dr Maroñas notes, adding that "expectations play a massive part too."
"Once a product tackles the main issue—like calming redness or deep dryness—that problem subsides. Naturally, you stop seeing the dramatic changes you saw at the start, even though the product is still doing a brilliant job at maintaining your skin," she explains. "At that point, people tend to start noticing other minor concerns they hadn't spotted before. It's completely human; we all do it."
How often should you really change your skincare routine?
"Ideally, review your routine every three to four months as the seasons change, adjusting textures or targeting specific needs," advises Dr Maroñas. "However, the golden rule is simple: if something's working and your skin feels healthy, don't swap it out just for the sake of it."
She suggests only making changes if you notice sudden dryness, breakouts, new dark spots, or during key life stages like pregnancy—and ideally, under the guidance of a professional.
The real reason new skincare gives you an instant 'healthy glow'
According to Dr Maroñas, your skin might seem to react better to a new cream for two key reasons:
- The instant visual hit: Hydrating the skin softens the stratum corneum and smooths out fine lines, giving an immediate "healthy glow."
- Skin tolerance: During the first few days, your skin reacts slightly—especially to active ingredients like retinol or acids—temporarily speeding up cell turnover. This initial reaction is obvious, but the real anti-ageing or brightening benefits happen over time.
Retinol vs glycolic acid: how long do skincare actives really take to work?
"All active ingredients take time and have a cumulative effect, meaning consistency leads to healthier, better-looking skin over time," says the specialist. However, "exfoliating acids like glycolic acid offer an immediate result—especially on textured skin or visible pores—by clearing away dead surface cells."
"On the other hand, actives like retinol, antioxidants, or regenerative ingredients like exosomes and peptides require a bit more patience," Dr Maroñas points out. "Retinoids and brightening agents often trigger mild irritation, redness, or peeling initially. That's just part of the adjustment process. Their true role is to boost collagen and prevent long-term cellular damage—structural changes you only really measure over six to twelve months of consistent use."








