Make-up application can present many questions including what, when and how we should be using the increasing array of products in our beauty stash. Luckily help is at hand from make-up artist Bryony Blake, who has answered some of the most commonly asked beauty questions on behalf of The Harley Medical Group.
How can the appearance of puffiness and dark circles be reduced?
It's so important to use an eye cream or serum to help hydrate under the eyes. You only need a small amount and I find a gel formula cooling under the eye, I particularly like The Harley Medical Group's DermaQuest Peptide Eye Firming Serum (£74, Harleymedical.co.uk) as it provides a great base for make-up, helping to avoid it settling in any creases around the eye. If dark circles are the problem, try using a pink or peach corrector first to colour correct the darkness and then pop a concealer (preferably one shade lighter than your foundation) on top to brighten the area.
What can be done to hide fine lines and wrinkles?
You can't get rid of wrinkles but you can make them less visible by using the right skincare and make-up. I love The Harley Medical Group's DermaQuest Peptide Line Corrector (£178, Harleymedical.co.uk) as it makes your skin feel and look so smooth. If it's lines around your eye area that you're worried about putting make-up on because it can sit in the creases, try and opt for a creamy formula use gentle patting motions with your fingers to apply it. This will ensure you're melting the product into the skin rather than it settling on top to leave a heavy finish which can cause lines to be more visible. Many people are afraid of using a powder as they think it will look too caky but YoungBlood HD powder is so light and leaves such a silky feel that you can't even feel it on the skin. By using a powder, it will just help set your make-up in place and make it last.
Can a lifted and sculpted look be created without looking overly contoured?
You can create a natural lifted, sculpted look, by using a little bronzer to lift the skin, True Blood mineral radiance in Sundance, is a great one for giving your skin a healthy glow and then use a bright blush on the apples of the cheeks for a youthful, fresh plump look.
How can we make our nose appear smaller?
Subtly shading the sides of the nose and the end of your nose with a matte contour colour can help shape the nose. If you want to make it look thinner, focus on the sides but if it's the length then slightly shade the very tip of the nose.
What can be done to avoid make-up accentuating enlarged pores?
I think the most important thing to understand when dealing with enlarged pores is to use oil free skin care. I also recommend my clients try and use a face mask once a week as this will help deep clean the skin to prevent black heads and blemishes. Charcoal or clay based face masks are brilliant for this – I often recommend The Harley Medical Group's DermaQuest Dermaclear Mask (available at The Harley Medical Group) for this as it's great for soothing acne and inflamed skin. In terms of make-up, before applying a foundation make sure you use a toner to help take away any excess oil then apply an oil free (water based) moisturiser and primer (or pore minimizer). This will help your foundation to glide onto the skin smoothly rather than sitting on top of the skin and accentuating enlarged pores.
Sometimes as I blend in my foundation I find it comes off in little bits, why is this?
When foundation peels off in little bits as you apply it, it's often due to overloading skin with heavy moisturisers and serums before you apply your foundation. I always say to people leave a bit of time between applying your skincare and your foundation so that it has time to settle in. If this still happens then I would recommend using a lighter moisturiser or even a serum such as The Harley Medical Group's DermaQuest B5 Hydrating Serum (£64, Harleymedical.co.uk) as it's very light and then opt for thicker, more nourishing cream at night time. I would also advise using a brush to apply your foundation as sometimes the heat from your hands can leave your foundation looking patchy.
Bryony Blake is a make-up artist working on behalf of The Harley Medical Group.