I’ll happily skip foundation, but concealer? That’s rarely up for negotiation. A quick dab under each eye is the one step I rely on to make me look a little more rested than I feel, particularly after a late night. But recently, I’ve noticed that instead of brightening things up, it collects in the little creases beneath my eyes and leaves the whole area looking dry and cakey. Add a little powder and, somehow, I look more tired than when I started.
Concealing in midlife, it turns out, is a particularly frustrating balancing act. “As we move into our 40s and beyond, the skin around the eyes can become drier and fine lines more visible,” explains Laura Miller, makeup expert at Oriflame. “A formula that once blended beautifully can suddenly look heavy, settle into creases or cling to dry patches.” And sometimes what looks like a dark circle is partly a shadow created by a change in the contours beneath the eye. “Piling on more pigment won’t necessarily disguise it, however tempting that might be,” says Laura.
That’s always been my downfall: adding another dab, then another, expecting extra coverage to solve the problem. Instead, I end up drawing attention to the very area I’m trying to soften. I want to brighten my under-eyes without making them look flat, dry or conspicuously made-up. I’m happy for my concealer to leave a few signs of life showing; I just don’t want it to add any.
I spoke to the experts about what I was doing wrong and discovered six hydrating formulas that have finally persuaded me to give concealer another chance.
Give your eye cream a moment
I’m rather better at remembering eye cream than I am at waiting for it to sink in. But rushing straight into concealer could be undoing that good work. The aim is to leave the skin feeling comfortable and hydrated, without a slippery layer of skincare underneath my make-up. “I use a lightweight eye cream, then give it a moment to absorb,” says Sarah Tanno, Haus Labs Global Artistry Director. “If there’s too much skincare sitting on the surface, concealer can slip around instead of blending into the skin.” Laura agrees that allowing a few minutes between skincare and make-up can help discourage creasing. I can use that time to do my brows, or brush my teeth instead of rushing onto a makeup step too eagerly.
Switch your formula
My instinct when something isn’t covering well is to reach for something thicker. But the experts have persuaded me to rethink what I’m asking of my concealer. I still want coverage; I just want a texture that feels comfortable when I smile, squint or get on with my day. “I look for a formula that feels flexible and gives me enough pigment to work in thin layers,” says Sarah. “You want buildable coverage without feeling heavy under the eyes, so you can correct darkness while keeping the finish fresh.” Laura also looks for moisture alongside pigment, and suggests looking for hydrating ingredients such as ectoin and colour-correcting pigments.
© Getty ImagesApply it where you need it
It’s surprisingly easy to apply concealer on autopilot, covering the same patch beneath each eye whether all of it needs help or not. I’m now taking a closer look at where the darkness actually is. “I place concealer where I actually see darkness, which is often around the inner corner,” explains Sarah. “Then I blend outward with whatever is left on my brush.”
That last detail feels particularly useful: blending out doesn’t have to mean adding more. Laura recommends gently tapping with a ring finger, a small concealer brush or a damp sponge, softening the edges without spreading the product across the whole under-eye. I’m also resisting the urge to give the outer corners an extra coat. “Usually, what’s left on my brush is enough,” says Sarah. “Before setting, I check for any concealer that has collected in a line and gently tap it out.”
Consider a colour corrector
Adding another product might sound like an odd suggestion when I’m trying to wear less, but colour correction has a different job to do. Used where it’s needed, it can help address discolouration before I start piling concealer over it. “It’s particularly useful around the eyes because if you can neutralise the appearance of darkness rather than simply covering it with layer upon layer of pigment, you can achieve a fresher result using much less product,” explains Laura. For me, the appeal is breaking that cycle of adding concealer and still seeing darkness underneath. A separate corrector is one option; a concealer with colour-correcting pigments is another.
Be selective with powder
Powder is where my determination to make everything stay put can get a little overenthusiastic. Having carefully brightened my under-eyes, I don’t want to take away every trace of softness in the process. “I like to press a very small amount of powder only where the concealer tends to move,” says Sarah. “I don’t feel the need to powder the entire under-eye, especially when the skin is dry.” Laura also recommends using the smallest amount of finely milled powder, concentrating on the places where make-up shifts. I recently discovered Laura Mercia Secret Brightening Color Correcting Under Eye Setting Powder, £31. So I’m giving up the automatic sweep beneath both eyes and being more selective. If an area doesn’t need setting, I can leave it alone.
© Getty ImagesRefresh before you reapply
When I spot a crease later in the day, my first thought is usually to reach for the concealer again. Sarah’s advice is to pause before adding anything. “I start by gently pressing the concealer back into place with a clean fingertip,” she says. “The warmth of your finger can bring the finish back to life without adding another layer.” If the skin feels dry, she suggests tapping in the tiniest amount of hydration. It’s a reassuringly simple adjustment, and one I can make without starting my make-up from scratch. My concealer has already done the covering; sometimes, it just needs a little smoothing out.
Charley's Favourite Concealer Picks
By Terry Hyaluronic Serum Concealer, £39
I love the attention to hydration here, with eight types of hyaluronic acid alongside caffeine and magnolia flower extract in a light, creamy formula. The pointed end of the applicator is particularly useful for placing a small dot at the inner corner, helping me resist my usual temptation to cover the whole area.
Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Concealer, £30
The flexible, buildable coverage is the attraction for me, with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide for hydration, plus fermented arnica to help soothe skin. The doe-foot wand makes targeted application straightforward; I’m keeping to a little dab, then blending before deciding whether I need more.
LYS Beauty Bright Start Airbrush Concealer, £24
I love the thought behind the applicator: there’s a built-in sponge tip, which can be removed to reveal a narrow nozzle for more precise dispensing. Inside, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and liquorice root extract bring hydration and brightening benefits to the creamy, buildable coverage.
VIEVE Skin Nova Concealer, £28
The light, balmy texture is what appeals to me, with moisture-binding polyglutamic acid and glycerin supporting that comfortable finish. A doe-foot applicator lets me dot it where I want coverage, while the flexible formula gives me the option of keeping things sheer — particularly welcome on days when I’m skipping foundation.
Jones Road Wide Awake Brightening Neutraliser, £30
I love the simplicity of this creamy corrector, applied with fingertips or a small brush to counter discolouration before reaching for concealer. Squalane and shea butter help keep the formula comfortable, while a botanical blend of liquorice root, rice bran and marshmallow root adds to its brightening credentials.
Oriflame The ONE All-In-One Blurring Concealer, £6.99
I’m impressed by how much consideration this affordable formula gives to moisture, combining hydrating ectoin with vitamin E and provitamin B5. Add colour-correcting pigments and a softly blurring finish, and it fits neatly with my wish to disguise darkness without reaching for heavier coverage.
