Oily, dry or combination. Most of us have a rough idea of our skin type (although, as dermatologists often remind us, we don’t always get it right). But when it comes to our scalps, how many of us really know what we’re dealing with? We tend to describe our hair as dry or oily, but our scalp is skin, too – just with a much higher concentration of hair follicles. And according to experts, overlooking its needs could mean doing both our scalp and our hair a disservice.
© Getty ImagesWhat are the different scalp types?
“Just as with facial skin, the scalp can be classified as dry, oily or combination,” says Dr Sharon Wong, consultant dermatologist, president of the Institute of Trichologists and co-founder of DOSE. “Scalp type can also vary between individuals and change over time. For example, sebum production often increases during puberty due to hormonal changes, whereas the scalp may become drier with age as sebum production declines.”
Trichologist Tiffany Hall agrees, explaining that the scalp’s sebaceous glands produce natural oils that help protect and lubricate both the skin and hair. However, she stresses the importance of distinguishing between scalp types and scalp conditions. While oiliness is a scalp type, dandruff, seborrhoeic dermatitis and psoriasis are conditions that may require a different approach.
How do you know what scalp type you have?
© Getty ImagesStart by paying attention to how your scalp looks and feels between washes. “A dry scalp may feel tight, dry or itchy, sometimes accompanied by fine, powdery flakes. The roots of the hair may also feel dry and lack natural oiliness,” says Dr Wong. “An oily scalp tends to feel greasy to the touch, often within a day of washing. Hair may become flat, heavy or clump together at the roots, meaning more frequent washing is needed to keep it feeling fresh.” Combination scalps, meanwhile, typically have oilier roots alongside drier lengths and ends. Some people may also experience patches of dryness alongside oilier areas of the scalp. And for sensitive types? “The scalp may react to certain products and feel tender,” says Hall.
Neither scalp type nor its needs are necessarily fixed. According to both experts, factors including age, hormones, climate, medication and haircare habits can influence how your scalp behaves. so it’s worth reassessing its needs from time to time rather than sticking with products simply because they worked for you in the past.
Why is my hair greasier while my scalp is becoming drier with perimenopause?
© Getty ImagesIf your hair seems to get greasy more quickly than it used to, hormonal changes could be part of the picture.
“Hormones influence the sebaceous glands responsible for producing sebum,” says Hall. “During perimenopause, fluctuations in oestrogen and progesterone, and changes in their balance with androgens, can affect oil production.” While some women notice increased oiliness during this stage of life, others experience dryness or sensitivity. And there’s another factor to consider: hair itself can change.
“What appears to be increased oiliness isn’t always due to more sebum,” Hall explains. “Hormonal changes can also affect hair density and fibre diameter. As hair becomes finer or less dense, natural oils may become more noticeable, making it look greasy sooner.” Although sebum production generally declines with age and after menopause, experiences during perimenopause vary so it's worth considering changes in both scalp health and hair texture when reassessing your routine.
Should you tailor your shampoo to your scalp type?
© Getty ImagesIn short, yes. Both experts agree that your scalp should be the starting point when choosing a shampoo. “A common misconception is that shampoo should be chosen according to whether hair is dry, damaged, fine or coloured. These factors matter, but shampoo cleanses the scalp as well as the hair,” says Hall.
For example, you might have an oily scalp but dry, chemically treated lengths. In that case, a shampoo designed to cleanse your scalp effectively can be paired with a nourishing conditioner or treatment to help restore moisture to the mid-lengths and ends. The principle is simple: shampoo should primarily address the needs of your scalp, while conditioner helps manage the condition of your hair lengths and ends, says Dr Wong.
Oily scalps
If your scalp tends to become greasy quickly, both experts recommend lightweight, effective cleansing formulas that remove excess sebum without leaving the hair feeling weighed down.
Look for ingredients such as salicylic acid, which can help loosen dead skin cells and remove build-up. Dr Wong also notes that kaolin clay can absorb excess oil and help reduce the appearance of greasiness.
Dry scalps
For a dry scalp, look for gentle, hydrating formulations containing ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal and other humectants like glycerin. “These can help support the skin barrier, attract and retain moisture and improve scalp comfort,” says Dr Wong.
The aim is to cleanse without unnecessarily stripping the scalp of moisture, helping to leave it feeling more comfortable.
Combination scalps
A balanced approach is best for combination scalps according to our experts. “Choose a shampoo that effectively cleanses the roots without excessively stripping the scalp, and focus its application on the scalp rather than the lengths,” says Dr Wong. Hall recommends addressing any areas of dryness or sensitivity with targeted care, then using a moisturising conditioner through the mid-lengths and ends to replenish hydration.
Sensitive scalps
If your scalp is easily irritated, Hall suggests choosing a gentle, fragrance-free formula with as few potential irritants as possible, while trying to identify what may be triggering the sensitivity. Persistent itching, soreness, redness or flaking may indicate an underlying scalp condition rather than simply a particular scalp type. If symptoms continue, seek advice from a dermatologist or trichologist.
Ultimately, understanding your scalp is about more than finding the right shampoo. As Hall explains, healthy-looking hair starts with understanding the scalp environment and addressing both scalp health and the individual needs of the hair.
