There are some parts of the Costa Brava that have never reached the heady package heights of other, more popular Costas – despite having had a starring role in the 1970s hit Eviva Espana. Perhaps it was the weather (which used to be changeable, but has heated up of late) or the fact that Catalan is the official first language (though Spanish is widely spoken) that put people off.
Whatever the reason, the Baix Emporda region – 40 minutes’ drive from Girona – never hit the same level of fame and quietly got on with its business while others built sprawling resorts. In fact, many of the hotels and restaurants that exist today were launched back in the 1950s, meaning there are plenty of starched white tablecloths and repeat guests.
Since the pandemic, however, the area has been attracting a new wave of visitors. Younger Barcelona dwellers have rediscovered the region while work-from-homers have made the move here permanent (after all, it’s only one-and-a-half hours’ drive from Barcelona). Even Beyoncé and Barack Obama have visited.
Increasingly, there are restaurants, shops and hotels to cater to these newcomers, as well as a burgeoning cycling and wellness scene. All while retaining a healthy dose of old-fashioned charm.
Here’s our expert guide on what to see and do in this underrated region…
Do
Don trainers and make for the Camí de Ronda, a walking trail that hugs the pine-scented cliffs of the coastline between tiny fishing villages and hidden coves. Some stretches are gentle, others less so (the route was first used by 19th-century police spying on the coast’s smugglers).
© Getty ImagesFor easy strolls, try meandering between the wild, grey beach of Platja Fonda and popular Aigua Blava, with its handful of restaurants by the sand. Or wander the wide path that connects the (slightly) larger seaside towns of Llafranc and Calella. High in the hills above the latter, the pine-shaded paths and rainbow flowers of Járdins de Cap Roig are the perfect backdrop to a break from the sun.
Another good way to explore the area is by boat, ploughing the waters between the great, yellow expanse of sand at Platja del Ráco and the headland beyond Calella. Explore cool hidden caves along the way, or moor up for a stop-off at Cala Pedrosa, a castaway cove that’s home to a tiny seasonal chiringuito serving just-caught fish of the day. Hire a boat at Llafranc beach or from Aigua Blava Boats.
A little way inland from it all is Begur, a town built on the fortunes of 19th-century merchants returning from Cuba. Their brightly-painted houses still give the place a rather exotic look and it’s a hotspot for evening drinks in lively plazas. Traipse to the top of its ruined castle for views across the rooftops and out to sea.
© Roman Tsubin/Getty ImagesFurther north, Cadaqués was Salvador Dali’s childhood holiday destination and it’s worth a daytrip (he later moved to nearby Port Lligat, where you can still visit his house). Expect a seaside tangle of whitewashed streets embellished in jewel-coloured shutters.
Eat
On the beach at Aigua Blava as dusk falls at Toc al Mar, a very popular restaurant with a deck above the sand. It’s great for fresh fish and crisp, white wine.
For lunch, the gravelly garden at Hostal Sa Rascassa makes a delightfully shady spot around a minutes’ walk from the sea at the little cove of Aiguafreda. The food here is excellent too: try the goats’ cheese salad and squid ink spaghetti. Meanwhile, settings don’t get much more romantic than at Cap Sa Sal, where terraces of tables tumble down the hillside towards a view of the Med that’s bewitching at night.
Along the coast, Llafranc was popular with Liz Taylor and still has a couple of the region’s hippest restaurants. There’s sushi in the jasmine-scented gardens of a lighthouse at Far Nomo, as well as a dose of la dolce vita with a side-serving of mid-century glam at gorgeous Isabella’s, an Italian restaurant with rooms right on the promenade.
If you’re staying in Begur town and don’t fancy driving, Clara is a cool spot in the Hotel Aiguaclara, with excellent cocktails.
Drink
In summer, the chiringuitos that line the area’s best beaches are great for pintxos and very generous gin and tonics. On the golden sand of Platja del Ráco, Ultra Mar is the most romantic.
A perennial favourite, C-Roak in Begur offers live music in a little courtyard garden. For something that’s more of an event, head inland to Mas Sorrer for live music and festivals from June to September.
Shop
For gentle browsing, the medieval village of Pals comes with immaculately-kept lanes scattered with jewellers, clothing and souvenir shops, as well as a Tuesday market where you can pick up locally-made honey and freshly-baked bread.
© Getty ImagesLong a hub for traditional pottery making, the inland, working town of La Bisbal has started producing some incredibly cool crockery of late. Among the workshops that line its streets, Limón Studio does the best line in limited-edition vases and mugs. If that fires any creative impulses, it runs pottery workshops too.
Though my kids love the industrial area around the town of Palafrugell for its pound shop equivalents Xina Center and Tedi, there are foodie finds to be had in what first appears a less-than-promising area. The first is Ametller Origen, a branch of an organic chain in the Whole Foods mould with its own orchards, vineyards and vegetable gardens across Spain. The second is Vins i Licors Grau, a vast warehouse of wine.
Stay
Once a family party pad, Finca Victoria (named for the much-loved matriarch) has been transformed into an adults-only hideaway near the beach at Sa Riera.
Around ten minutes away, spread around the little coves of Fornells, Hotel Aigua Blava is a more family-friendly affair with fantastic views, good buffet breakfasts and a heated pool (just don’t expect kids’ clubs or too much polish: it’s resolutely old-fashioned).
Away from the sea, Begur has more boutique hotels than you’d expect in such a tiny town. Among the best is the chic Alta House, with its banana-palm shaded pool and a rooftop that’s the best place in town for sundowners. La Bionda is a more colourful – albeit just as lovable affair – with patterned tiles and dashes of magenta and purple.
Meanwhile, for wellness breaks, Camiral Health & Wellness sits a little way from the coast but comes with a huge wellness centre and golf course. In 2031, it will host the Ryder Cup.
How to do it
Girona is the nearest airport, with flights from Tui, but fares can skyrocket in summer. Barcelona has cheaper fares thanks to a multitude of operators. BA, Easyjet, Vueling and more fly there and there are plenty of hire car companies at the airport.
