There’s nothing glamorous about waiting over two and a half hours to get through Europe’s new Entry/Exit System (EES). Having recently endured this (outside in the baking sun, no less), when Greece – in their brilliantly Greek way – announced that they simply weren’t going to implement the system this summer, the country swiftly jumped to the top of my list of European countries to recommend this year.
A Greek love affair
Crete, Mykonos, Santorini, Corfu, Rhodes; the list of Greek destinations beloved by the Brits is well established. And newcomers are popping up all the time with islands such as Paros, Paxos and even Tinos on the rise; you won’t be the first of your friends to visit and you certainly won’t be the last.
© Getty ImagesYet very few know about the nearest inhabited Cycladic island to Athens, reputed among locals as an exclusive hideout for the wealthy. Kéa (or Tzia in Greek) has more than 30 beaches to its name, along with centuries of tradition, excellent hiking routes (hilly is an understatement) and, unusually for Greece, excellent diving spots. These include the shipwreck of the Britannic, a sister ship of the Titanic.
Nowhere is the place to be
Privacy has long been a watchword for discerning travellers and the One&Only Kéa Island resort has it in spades. As you disembark from your private speedboat trip (or helicopter transfer), it feels as though you’ve landed in the middle of nowhere.
© Penny WalkerSet on the hillside overlooking Vroskopos Beach – arguably the island’s finest – the resort pulls off a tricky balance: it’s raw yet refined, isolated yet full of soul, simple yet artistic and natural yet immaculate.
Exclusivity is key
Around the resort stand the old demarcation walls of farmers, and every one of the cliffside villas has its foundations in the exact same stone, making them feel like part of the island from the ground up.
Reminiscent of Maldivian villas – albeit with a more earthy design featuring smooth white marble, dark wood and subtle blue tones as a nod to the Aegean beyond – they offer plenty of relaxation areas and all come with their own heated infinity pool (large enough to do at least a few strokes in).
© Rupert PeaceThey’re so exclusive and so well-executed that many guests (especially the more easily recognised) opt never to leave throughout their trip.
Leave the room
Although it’s tempting to live off refreshing private dips, stunning ocean views and in-villa dining all day, the hotel has some incredible amenities to enjoy – reached by golf buggy due to the hilly terrain. There are watersports on the beach, a fully-equipped gym open 24 hours a day, paddle court, tennis court, kids club, wine bar, “speaKéasy” and a yoga pavilion.
© Rupert PeaceYou’ll also find the largest spa in the One&Only portfolio here, covering three floors and including a beautiful indoor-outdoor pool, relaxation areas and gendered cold-plunge pool, sauna and steam rooms. I also had one of the best hotel massages of my career here (and that’s saying a lot from a sufferer of chronic pain); ask for Alexandros.
Bond at the beach
Further along from the spa is Bond Beach Club. Here, the sand-shingle beach is lapped by clear waters with a gentle gradient and lined with loungers shaded by bamboo-leaf parasols.
While food and drink can be ordered to your lounger, the restaurant was my favourite spot on the island, offering a cool, shaded spot beneath the trees with a relaxed atmosphere and a beach-club soundtrack from the resident DJ.
© Penny WalkerHere, you’ll find the reason for the name Bond – the cuisine is a combination of Greek and Asian flavours and it's simple yet delicious. As you’d expect, the calamari was exemplary, while the salads were refreshing and the fish taco by far a favourite with the patrons.
A spot in the sunlight
If the beach offers the relaxed, holiday vibe of Greek renown, the main building fills in the architectural and cultural gaps. At Atria, you’ll find cuisine more in keeping with Mediterranean flavours. They serve flavoursome salads (the spanikopita salad was superb – the crunch filo layered with well-seasoned dressing and crumbly feta), charcoal-grilled fresh seafood and Greek classics, such as meatballs and seabass. It’s a leisurely affair, with service bordering on the slow side. Mornings are also spent here, with a fun, shop-inspired buffet setup.
© Rupert PeaceCome nightfall, while many of the villas offer a great sunset view, the Kosmos Lobby Bar has the finest in the resort. A few floors below is Kaiki Pool Bar, which sits next to the uncrowded but very refreshing infinity pool (one side is great for kids, the other is adults only).
Leave the hotel
Not only should you leave your room, you should also leave the hotel. Aside from diving trips, you can also cruise the Aegean or land-based excursions can be arranged in the small fleet of Land Rover Defenders (they’re needed for the terrain). Discover remnants of Ancient Karthea with an archaeologist, hike through the interior or take a trip to Ioulida – the island’s capital.
© Penny WalkerHere, you’ll find cobbled streets, white washed houses and traditional Greek homes – all without the crowds that exist on islands such as Santorini. Just make sure you pack your trainers as there are plenty of stairs.
Inspired living
The village was the inspiration for architect John Heah, who incorporated Signature Cycladic motifs throughout. Light is pivotal in this world of white-washed walls and curved archways, and work by local artists adorn the walls.
I was particularly enraptured by the open-air atrium at the heart of the main building. Open to the elements at all times, it’s alive with sparrows singing at all hours, the trees reaching up through the stairway to the open skylight above.
The entire hotel is an exercise in marrying high-end luxury with a raw and challenging yet beautiful cliffside environment. The result? An elegant and exclusive getaway that many are yet to discover.
How to book
Cliff Villas at One&Only Kéa Island cost from £1,525 per night (oneandonlyresorts.com).
