It’s late, the Mediterranean is dark beneath us, and I’m standing at Explora III’s rooftop Sky Bar with a glass of Champagne in my hand, looking out at nothing but sea and stars.
Glamorous, relaxed and a world away from the cruise ships I grew up sailing on, I’m aboard the latest vessel from Explora Journeys for its inaugural Mediterranean voyage. It’s part of the brand’s attempt to change the way we think about luxury cruising. And after a week on board, I can see how.
Explora III is almost 20 metres longer than her predecessors, but rather than cramming in more cabins, it gives that extra space to restaurants, bars and public areas. The Lobby Bar is the showstopper, with a sweeping gold staircase beneath enormous hand-blown Venini chandeliers, while throughout the ship, Milan-based Studio de Jorio combines marble and travertine with curved furniture, contemporary art and warm woods.
So far, so glam. Explora Journeys’ tagline reads “maybe the best hotel in the world isn’t a hotel at all.” After seeing the ship for myself, I concur.
A suite bigger than my London flat
My home for the week is a 50 square metre Cove Residence – which, yes, is bigger than my London flat.
There’s a separate living area, floor-to-ceiling windows, a walk-in wardrobe, a king-size bed with Frette linens and a balcony with a Manutti daybed. The marble bathroom has twin sinks, underfloor heating and a superb Dyson hairdryer.
Then there are the details that make it feel surprisingly homely: a chess set, a small library containing books I genuinely want to read, a Technogym holdall and jars of pistachios and spicy nuts.
If that sounds generous, the new Owner’s Residence (an extraordinary 183 square metres, plus 132 square metres of outdoor space) comes with a private steam room and an outdoor whirlpool. Designed by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola, it feels more like a chic private apartment than a cruise suite.
From gyoza to gourmet tasting menus
Food is where Explora really wins me over though. There’s no traditional main dining room, and most restaurants are included in the fare, so I can eat my way around the ship without constantly wondering what the final bill will look like.
Anthology is the exception. Its seven-course tasting menu, created by chef Franck Garanger, comes with a £171 cover charge. The cooking is precise and the ingredients excellent, but it is simply too much for me – both the length of the meal and the price.
Luckily, the other restaurants more than satisfy my expectations. At Fil Rouge, a sweet potato tart with sautéed mushrooms and French onion soup is good enough to make me go quiet mid-conversation.
Sakura, the pan-Asian option, is another standout, with a dramatic canopy of artificial cherry blossoms and an open kitchen. I watch the chefs at work while grazing on plump gyoza and crunchy seaweed salad.
But the restaurant I keep returning to is Shore Club, serving Mediterranean-inspired dishes such as shakshuka with a proper feta crumble and halloumi and grilled vegetable skewers.
There is the obligatory buffet too, though Emporium Marketplace is a world away from the usual cruise ones. Rather than a long procession of dishes, there are separate stations, much of it prepared to order, serving everything from pizza and pasta to poke bowls, curries and zesty salads.
A life on the ocean wave – now with added designer jewels and spa treatments
There’s plenty else aboard Explora III to tempt me into spending my money, from Mandala by Ocean Atelier – a new jewellery collection by Fanny Blanchelande – to the Cartier, Rolex and Chopard boutiques.
The Clarendon Fine Art gallery changes its display regularly; I spot red dots beside a couple of Mr Brainwash pieces, suggesting fellow passengers have already been tempted.
At the Ocean Wellness spa, I surrender to a muscle-melting massage (£256 for 60 minutes, which takes some of the sheen off the treatment). There are also yoga, Pilates and meditation classes, although I somehow find reasons not to attend them.
Shore thing – exploring the Med’s best attractions
For all the marble, Champagne and sound baths, the best thing about a cruise is still what happens when the ship stops.
In Portofino, I take a private boat along the Italian Riviera, passing pastel-coloured houses that climb the hillside before diving off the back into impossibly vivid blue water. In Barcelona, I catch the complimentary shuttle into town to see Gaudí’s soaring, still-unfinished Sagrada Família, then wander along La Rambla.
You could do all this without a ship – flying between destinations, finding taxis, booking hotels, packing and unpacking. But if you have the choice, why would you?
© Getty Images/iStockphotoOn Explora III, the tedious logistics are taken care of while I sleep, and I wake somewhere new the next day without lifting a finger. As I get older, I’m increasingly enthusiastic about this kind of administrative assistance.
There are, of course, plenty of unforgettable flourishes too. On my final night onboard, Kathy Sledge takes to the stage with her backing singers and dancers, Bob Sinclar takes over the decks and a spectacular drone show lights up the sky. Pink Champagne flows as we dance beneath the stars.
By the time I disembark, I’m already wondering whether to splurge on a Dyson hairdryer back home – and when I can do it all again.
How to book it
The next European adventure aboard Explora III with Explora Journeys is an eight-night ‘Journey through Nordic Discoveries & Geothermal Wonders’, departing Southampton in September. It costs from £4,655pp, including drinks, meals and gratuities but excludes flights.
Kaye was a guest of Explora Journeys. All stays and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
