Scrolling through my Instagram feed earlier this week, I stopped when I recognised the landscape that Nicole Kidman was posing in front of from her most recent holiday snaps. The rugged beauty was unmistakeable; like me, she has just sailed around Iceland.
Unlike me, however, Nicole travelled with Ritz Carlton Yacht Collection (imagine being another passenger on that voyage), where rates start from £7,900pp. By contrast, I sailed with Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL), where you can bag a berth from £529pp all-inclusive.
© InstagramI believe a cruise is the best way to see the most beautiful and remote parts of this bucket-list destination. I’m a fairly recent convert to cruise; I’ve been a travel writer for more than 25 years, but only fell in love with these floating adventures three years ago, and they continue to amaze and teach me new things.
Sailing from the UK is the best way to travel
But no revelation to date has been as unexpected as setting sail from Southampton, which was thrilling yet so… easy. It felt almost unnerving to cast away on such an incredible escapade when I’d been able to catch a local train to the port in under an hour. Where was the airport stress? The queues? The baggage restrictions? The jet lag? Surely a “big trip” couldn’t be this little hassle?
© STAR AT SEA 05We were set to sail from the UK, ending in Reykjavik in seven days’ time and taking in the remote Scottish Orkney Islands, Bergen (Norway), and two inspirational Icelandic ports (Akureyri for waterfalls; Isafjordur for fjords and fauna) along the way. My family and I had opted for the week-long itinerary, flying home at the end, but there are 14-day circular Northern Europe voyages that mean you don’t have to set foot on an aeroplane at all.
Beat the heat
Weather was another holiday headache that had been struck off my list. While summer heat waves have been taking hold of Europe – in some heartbreaking cases, requiring emergency evacuations – northerly temperatures are much more manageable. I checked the forecast while packing to see that highs in Iceland were hovering around 15°C, which meant T-shirts for daytime exploring, and light sweatshirts at night.
Not that I had to limit my wardrobe; every passenger is allowed two pieces of 23kg luggage, so I could pack every outfit for every possible eventuality. Even more relaxing is the fact that, once you’ve unpacked in your cabin, you needn’t worry about re-packing crumpled clothes or mislaid socks again.
I realised I wouldn’t be needing the kaftans or matching sun hats I’d packed as we sailed into Kirkwall, the historic capital of the Orkney Islands. Instead, I reached for my rain mac while surveying the drizzle outside; the Scots even have a special word for such weather: dreich. It was to be a short stop at Kirkwall (8am–3pm) so we shunned the group excursions and hired a car to make the most of the day.
© Getty ImagesIf anything, the rain and bluster only made my pit stops more atmospheric: spectacular Standing Stones at Stenness; the eerie “disappearing” tidal path to Brough of Birsay, where puffins and guillemots cluster; and pretty Stromness port, where we ate hot fish and chips on a cold bench, as is obligatory on any British break.
Try before you buy
If you’re a cruise first-timer, you might be surprised to learn how short stops can be. Not only that, but some ports involve tender transportation – small boats to land, often on a first come, first served basis – that can eat further into your day. I don’t mention this to put you off cruising, but to give you the full picture. For me, cruises are almost like a tasting menu of destinations: some spots you’ll want to return to, and others won’t be your cup of tea, saving you money and holiday allowance on wasted trips.
In this instance, Southampton only made my cruise philosophy extra productive. With zero hassle, I was able to try out three intrepid destinations – the Orkneys, Norwegian Fjords, and Iceland – for a fraction of the cost of separate breaks. My fare was £579pp all inclusive, staying in a Balcony Cabin (Interior Cabins are cheaper still but you forfeit the views). Admittedly, a cruise doesn’t get you under the skin of every destination, but it gives an affordable glimpse.
© Getty ImagesScandinavia on a Shoestring
Patches of welcome blue sky appeared just as we cruised into Bergen, second largest city in Norway and gateway to its mythical Fjords. My father travelled through Bergen in the 1960s and little had changed from the photographs he showed me pre-voyage: ancient, cobbled quarters; timber wharf houses painted in that unmistakable rusty red (known as “rodfarge”); and street vendors selling salmon-on-rye and hot waffles.
© Getty ImagesIn Akureyri, northern Iceland, we visited thundering Godafoss – “Waterfall of the Gods” – and then warmed up afterwards at Earth Lagoon, swimming in its steaming geothermal waters, agog at the extraordinary lunar landscape that we’d seen on screen in Game of Thrones. (One US passenger commented: “Oh my! This is so much better than the Blue Lagoon!”) I felt lucky to see these stops without having to pay for notoriously expensive hotels; instead, we slept aboard NCL Norwegian Star, while the captain whisked us off to the next port.
Weather can be a blessing and a curse
Unfortunately, poor weather prevented us from stopping at Isafjordur, so we were itching to explore Reykjavik, where the sun shone and we ate cinnamon buns. Of course, it was disappointing to miss a port because of wind and rain, but as we watched the Mediterranean on TV baking in 45°C temperatures, we decided we were happy right where we were.
© InstagramHow to book it
Norwegian Cruise Line has seven-night Northern Europe itineraries, sailing from Southampton, from £529pp (ending in Reykjavik); 14-night circular trips from £999pp (in-and-out of UK, involving no flights). Both are on an all-inclusive basis.
If you opt to fly back from Iceland, you can stay overnight in Reykjavik at Iceland Parliament Hotel, Curio Collection by Hilton, a stylish but affordable option in the heart of the city (rooms from £203).
Katie and her family were guests of Norwegian Cruise Line. All stays and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
