"I'm just not a hat person." According to milliner Amelia Locke of Feather & Bloom, it’s the single most common phrase she hears, and the biggest myth in occasion dressing.
"There is a hat for everyone," she insists. "It’s all about finding the right one for you." From weddings to Royal Ascot, the right millinery transforms an outfit from standard to showstopping, provided you know the insider rules.
© Samir Hussein/WireImageStart with proportion, not the dress
One of the most useful styling rules is surprisingly simple: consider your shoulders. "A hat shouldn't really exceed the width of your shoulders," Amelia says, describing it as a "very good guideline" when choosing a style.
While there are exceptions, she believes proportion is far more important than the face shape rules often cited in style advice. "I personally don't believe it's that simple a science," she says. "The only rule in terms of dimensions that I go for is that a hat shouldn't really exceed the width of your shoulders."
That means women with taller frames or wider shoulders can often carry off dramatic wide brims, while smaller, more petite frames may feel more comfortable in angled saucers or smaller cocktail hats. "It's all about the proportion of the shoulders with your height," Amelia explains.
Matching is out, toning is in
Colour coordination has also shifted. The once standard rule of perfectly matching your hat to your outfit has largely been replaced by a softer, more nuanced approach - toning.
"Toning is the biggest change," Amelia says. "People don’t want things to match exactly anymore." Instead, modern occasion dressing favours layered shades within the same palette, similar to the natural variation you see in a flower. A pink dress, for example, might be paired with a hat that includes fuchsia, blush and deeper berry tones rather than a single identical pink.
Amelia points to the Princess of Wales's Royal Ascot appearance in 2019 as a perfect example. Wearing a cornflower blue ensemble topped with a Philip Treacy hat featuring multiple shades, Kate demonstrated how tonal dressing can look polished and modern without looking overly coordinated. "The dress was essentially one shade of blue, but the hat had several different tones in it," Amelia explains. "That's exactly what I mean by toning."
© Getty ImagesFor those wanting to stand out a little more, colour clashing is also having a moment. Unexpected combinations, like red with soft pink, are increasingly popular, particularly for statement race-day looks.
Know your hat types
Understanding basic millinery terms can also help when shopping. A fascinator typically refers to a small, lightweight piece that sits on a headband or clip, while a cocktail hat is slightly larger and often saucer-shaped. Boater hats, which had a resurgence in the 1980s thanks to Princess Diana, offer a structured, flat-brimmed silhouette that can be worn centrally or angled to one side.
Then there are hatinators, a hybrid style combining height and structure with lighter, more wearable bases. While not a traditional term, it has become widely used in contemporary millinery.
Boaters, in particular, are currently in demand. "They are something that I get a lot of requests for now," Amelia says. "People quite like the sleek, clean lines of a boater." Their appeal lies in their versatility. Some clients opt for a simple ribbon trim, while others choose dramatic feathers or sculptural detailing.
© Getty ImagesComfort is non-negotiable
A spectacular hat is worthless if you're gripping it against the wind all day. The secret to that effortless royal look isn't a mountain of bobby pins, it’s hidden engineering. "If it’s made properly, you shouldn’t need loads of pins," Amelia reveals. High-end millinery relies on perfectly balanced weights and custom elastics that tuck completely out of sight under the hairline and behind the neck, keeping the piece totally secure without ruining your hairstyle.
Navigating Royal Ascot rules
At Royal Ascot, dress codes still matter, particularly in the Royal Enclosure, where hats or headpieces must meet specific requirements. "You need a four-inch base," Amelia explains. "But it’s smaller than most people expect."
However, outside the most formal enclosures, the rules are far more relaxed than many assume. "You don’t even have to wear a hat in some areas,” she adds. “It’s more about understanding where you’re going."
© UK Press via Getty ImagesFinal style advice
Perhaps the most important consideration is confidence. "The right hat should make you stand taller," Amelia says. "If it feels like it’s wearing you, it’s not the right one."
Unsurprisingly, the Princess of Wales remains Amelia's benchmark for elegant race-day dressing. "She always gets it right," she says. "Her Ascot looks are a perfect balance of classic styling and modern millinery."
Whether choosing a sculptural boater, a soft tonal piece or a classic brimmed design, the goal is the same - to feel comfortable enough to enjoy the occasion. Modern millinery isn’t about restriction, it’s about expression, personality and having an amazing time while wearing it.
