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How Jane Birkin helped design fashion's most covetable bag

The late style icon inspired the iconic Hermès' accessory…


Jane Birkin sitting on a rocking chair
Orin Carlin
Content Writer
18 July 2023
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Jane Birkin's fashion legacy goes realms beyond an iconic accessory. From achingly chic fringes and slashed-to-the-navel crochet minis to infallible white-shirt-and-jeans combos, all topped off with her infectious joie de vivre.

The French singer and actress leaves behind swathes of fashion fans who found her a constant source of inspiration, but it would be remiss not to mention the part she played in creating her eponymous bag.

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She served as the inspiration behind Hermès iconic Birkin bag, a highly coveted accessory and simultaneous status symbol.

The story behind the Birkin bag

Jane Birkin carrying a basket bag © Getty
Jane previously carried a bag of much humbler origins

The design came about thanks to a serendipitous aeroplane encounter back in 1983. The then-chief executive of the French luxury house Jean-Louis Dumas was seated next to Jane on a flight from Paris to London.

One only has to glance at the fashion legend's style archive to get a sense of her (albeit highly chic) free-spirited freneticism. Her trademark basket bag, laden with her belongings, topped from the overhead locker, spilling, and leaving Jane scrabbling around for its contents.

She expressed her frustration at being unable to find a chic, spacious accessory, especially one which could cater to her needs as a young mother.

Jean-Louis offered his services, and over the course of the flight, Jane sketched out her ideal design, based on an existing Hermès model, on an Air France sickbag. 

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PARIS - JULY 8:  Jane Birkin attends the Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2005 Fashion Show during Paris Fashion Week on July 8, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)© Michel Dufour
Jane with her namesake bag

The following year, the bag entered the accessory sphere, and since its initial release it has evolved into a hallmark of luxury. Birkins are notoriously difficult to get hold of unless you have a proven track record as a loyal Hermès customer.

Representing the pinnacle of fashion exclusivity, the Birkin is a favoured celebrity showpiece. Drake, Kim Kardashian and Victoria Beckham are among the list of stars who are known to be avid collectors of the iconic accessory.

Jane famously flitted between using the bag and opting for other accessories over the years, although when she did choose to step out with one of her Birkins on her arm, she made a point of personalising it.

Lived-in and loved, Jane's personal Birkins were devoid of the dreary preciousness that many others project onto the style.  

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 "There's no fun in a bag if it's not kicked around, so that it looks as if the cat's been sitting on it - and it usually has," Jane told Vogue. "The cat may even be in it! I always put on stickers and beads and worry beads. You can get them from Greece, Israel, Palestine-from anywhere in the world. I always hang things on my bags because I don't like them looking like everyone else's."

 A true fashion trailblazer, if ever there was one.

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