“Why are you here?” The most commonly asked question I received while road-tripping across New Mexico. An understandable one, considering the state isn’t often frequented by Brits - let alone a 28-year-old fashion journalist from London. Yet, for those seeking isolated adventure far from the claustrophobic hubbub of the city, New Mexico offers the ideal remedy - flanked by mountain ranges, swathed in high desert and shaped by a rich native history.
Bathed in dry heat, the Land of Enchantment is home to the Rio Grande, the White Sands and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains - which sit among a diverse mosaic of craggy mesas, pastoral prairies and dense forests. These landscapes, bordered by Arizona, Colorado and Texas, are famously immortalised in the paintings of Wisconsin transplant Georgia O’Keeffe, who, alongside Robert J. Oppenheimer and Breaking Bad director Vince Gilligan, put New Mexico on the global cultural map.
The state’s indigenous identity pulsates with force. Unlike other corners of the US I’ve previously visited, New Mexico actively champions its Indigenous population through legal, political, and cultural frameworks, boasting a Native American population of over 10 per cent - the highest percentage in the lower 48 states. Consisting of nineteen Pueblos, the Apache Nation, and the Navajo Nation, preservation is at the core of New Mexican thought and charm.
And that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Directors including The Coen Brothers (No Country For Old Men), Denis Villeneuve (Sicario), and Rose Glass (Love Lies Bleeding), yielded inspiration from New Mexico’s distinctive pastures when conjuring up hit films, complementing an already-impressive catalogue of cultural touchtones.
For example, Neil Young and Johnny Cash are just a handful of creatives who penned lyrical tributes to the land, while Santa Fe’s restorative quality was captured in musicals such as Rent and Newsies. Steeped in a history that predates the founding of the United States, New Mexico is a compelling reminder that America extends far beyond the well-trodden tourist trails of LA and New York.
So, keen to deep dive into New Mexico’s storied past that has served as inspiration for several artistic legends, I headed out there for a week. Winding our way through Albuquerque, Santa Fe, Los Alamos, Abiquiú and finally Taos, we crafted quite the itinerary. Below, you’ll find the best things to do in the exquisitely untouched state, from where to stay to what to eat and everything in between.
Albuquerque
When touching down in a new, uncharted American city, one never quite knows what to expect. Yet, one thing is for sure, Albuquerque feels far from home. Dusted with terracotta buildings and distinctly open-skied, the sprawling metropolis merges the eeriness of the desert with the atmospheric hum of the Southwest. It’s vast, varied and commanding.
Where to stay: Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm
Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm is a real treasure. Nestled among organic stretches of lavender fields and cottonwood trees, the hotel is a mecca that feels both central and isolated from the bustling city. Spacious, homely rooms inspired by 1930s dairy buildings offer a light and airy farmhouse experience - ideal for adventurers seeking some luxurious yet unpretentious R&R. After a blissful night’s sleep (you’ll need it after the lengthy flight), aided by the soothing artisan lavender products provided, kick back by the salt water pool, grab an iced latte while browsing the irresistible goodies in the farm shop or map the lush grounds, which are home to a rather handsome flock of llamas (stand back in case of spit), goats and chickens.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauBook in for a delectable, Mexican-infused brunch at Campo, which champions field-to-fork dining and proudly celebrates the inn’s historical agrarian roots. Meats are sourced from local butchers, bread is baked onsite and farmers work alongside hotel chefs to ensure the very best, ethically sourced experience for hungry guests. The considered menu, coupled with incredibly friendly servers who you won’t want to say goodbye to, guarantee an unforgettable dining experience that feels intimate and intentional in equal measure.
Afterwards, be sure to investigate the property’s beautiful Hacienda Spa, which is floored with spiralling tiles and offers an array of botanically inspired treatments to revitalise and restore. A morning stroll is all you need to fully soak up the wholesome quiet of 25-acre farmland, which remains seared in our minds and, I suspect, will do for quite some time. The perfect tonic for sun-seekers in need of calm.
What to do:
Walter White’s stomping ground has much to offer, but with car keys to hand, it can all be ticked off fairly easily. Breaking Bad fans can treat themselves to a driving tour of filming locations, spanning the gritty Crossroads hotel to the White family home. Head down to the Historic Old Town and Sawmill District for some epic people (and car) watching, or meander towards The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center for your daily dose of history.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauGen Z wanderers should head straight to Nob Hill, a quirky, characterful corner of the city which offers an array of must-visit vintage stores and coffee shops. Sift through the rails of vintage stores like Buffalo Exchange, Vintage Vault and Frock Star Vintage to uncover some preloved gems, or park yourself at any hipster coffee shop for a jet lag-busting hit of caffeine. There’s a palpable hipster vibe in the area that comes with its fair share of bold flat whites, neon lettering and blue hair dye.
Nostalgic visitors can’t miss the iconic Route 66 Arches, which celebrate America’s legendary ‘Mother Road.’ Stop for lunch at 66 Diner to be transported back in time to the 1950s and inhale quite possibly the best chocolate milkshake you’ve ever tasted.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauAs for your dinner reservation? That’s easy. Soar above mountains in the Sandia Peak Tramway to reach TEN 3, an experience like no other. Gaze out across miles of expansive land that touches the borders of Colorado and Arizona while feasting on seared sashimi, Brazilian cheese bread, glazed aubergine (sorry - ‘eggplant’) and more. Wash it down with a prickly pear-infused cocktail and a slice of white chocolate ganache cake.
Santa Fe
Next stop: Santa Fe - the jewel of New Mexico. I’d always wondered why the cast of Rent were so keen to “open up a restaurant in Santa Fe,” and now I know why. The oldest state capital in the US, Santa Fe is an architectural delight, carrying a distinct regional aesthetic that fuses Native American Pueblo, Spanish Colonial, and Territorial styles. Codified by strict city historic preservation laws (see what I mean about the preservation?) Santa Fe is fringed with earthy stucco walls, flat roofs with parapets, exposed wooden beams, and soft, rounded organic forms that mirror the surrounding high desert landscape and make for some enviable Instagram carousels. En route from Albuquerque, be sure to stop off in Madrid for a brief nip into Gifted Hands Gallery followed by a famed chile cheeseburger at Mine Shaft Tavern.
Where to stay: The Inn of Five Graces
I’ve been fortunate enough to stay at some extraordinary hotels throughout my career, but few have possessed quite the same magic as The Inn of Five Graces. A tapestry of colour, pattern and texture, the hotel's interiors are layered with antique treasures, intricate textiles and worldly curiosities that radiate bohemian allure. Situated in Barrio de Analco, the oldest neighbourhood in the United States, this tranquil oasis is a hop, skip and jump away from the centre of town, where you’ll find galleries and shops galore - including sister store and vintage rug emporium Seret & Sons.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauRelax in your mosaiced room infused with Eastern design, or take to the pool for a quick dip. Secluded patios, framed by romantic foliage and furnished with decorative wrought iron against sun-warmed terracotta walls, provide a welcome invitation to switch off – before the senses are reawakened with a spicy margarita at the hotel’s intimate speakeasy, Bar Analco.
With a customer service that’s second to none, innovative culinary offerings crafted by celebrated Chef Mario Espinosa and unique decor that pays homage to the elegance of maximalism, The Inn of Five Graces is a hotel like no other. One you absolutely won’t want to miss – and will miss terribly once you’ve checked out.
What to do:
Far from my preconceived images of bouncing tumbleweed and sand-swathed nothingness, Santa Fe is abuzz with activities. So much so that we didn’t want to leave. A real standout was visiting the exhibition Here, Now And Always at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, which spotlights Native craftsmanship and scholarship via an extensive display of artefacts and artworks. This culturally sensitive display was utterly fascinating and deeply informative - a scintillating project helmed by Head of Curatorial Affairs Elisa Phelps and Executive Director Danyelle Means. From visual reclamations of Route 66, which passes through Native territory, to ancient jewels and Native designers ascending the sartorial ranks on a global scale, the exhibition delivers a striking contact zone for conversation surrounding Native history to ensue.
© Tania LeslauAnother museum to bookmark is, of course, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Now, it may sound a little far-fetched that I chose New Mexico as a travel destination purely because of my love for O’Keeffe’s paintings, but I’d be lying if I said that wasn’t precisely the reason. Witnessing her works up close and personal is a near-spiritual experience, one only topped by exploring her house in the hushed hills of Abiquiú village (more on that later.)
© Getty Images
© Tania LeslauThe space narrates the artist’s life from her early student days to superstardom, with spectators able to glimpse a myriad of watercolours, charcoal drawings, pastels and oil paintings. Large, abstract petals such as Pink Tulip (1926) unfurl across the gallery's walls, juxtaposed by barren mountainscapes and the creative’s signature ram’s head skeletons that are nestled amongst wild native fauna.
Culture vultures will be delighted to know that the art tour doesn't stop there. In fact, it’s only just begun. Head to Canyon Road (via CrashMurderBusiness or Wolf & Mermaid for a caffeinated pick-me-up) where over one hundred galleries pepper the historic street. For something a little more abstract, book into Meow Wolf and weave your wide-eyed way through a wondrously kooky immersive art experience like no other. Otherwise, head to the square for some live music, pop into The Golden Eye (for those searching for a one-of-a-kind engagement ring, bid farewell to your bank balance) and wander through the sun-soaked town while watching the world go by.
© The Georgia O'Keeffe MusuemLos Alamos
Christopher Nolan fans, does this one sound familiar? Los Alamos occupies an extraordinary, and complicated, place in American history. In 1943, the remote New Mexico settlement was selected by physicist J. Robert Oppenheimer as the secret laboratory for the Manhattan Project, the US-led effort to develop an atomic bomb during the Second World War. Scientists, engineers and military personnel arrived under intense secrecy, working around the clock to transform theoretical physics into a weapon capable of unprecedented destruction. Their work culminated in the first successful nuclear test, Trinity, in nearby Jornada del Muerto on 16 July 1945. Less than a month later, atomic bombs were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
What to do:
The primary attraction in Los Alamos is the Historic Museum & Walking Tour. Whether you’re interested in the history of the atomic bomb or a film buff like myself, this tour provides you with all the information you need to know. Christopher Nolan opted to film many scenes on site, finding inspiration in the stark mountain setting and isolated feel of the eerie yet affluent location. Visit the Historic Fuller Lodge, a key space during the WWII Manhattan Project, which sits steps away from Oppenheimer House on Bathtub Row, featured in the Oscar-winning picture. The museum offers a fascinating insight into the many challenges faced by those living and working in the area during the war, from the sexism endured by female workers - who were snarkily speculated by the local press to be lesbians - to the infrastructural headaches posed by the unforgiving terrain, with a healthy dose of Soviet spy drama thrown in for good measure.
© Tania LeslauAfter you’ve snapped your selfie with Mr Oppenheimer (AKA Cillian Murphy) and General Groves (AKA Matt Damon), grab a bite to eat at either Pig & Fig Cafe or Beef & Leaf. (Clearly, rhyming restaurant names carry serious weight in Los Alamos.) Then hit the road for a beautiful slice of New Mexico scenery as you wind your way to the Valles Caldera National Preserve, a volcanic crater that sits atop a dormant volcano and is home to some adorable prairie dogs. Enjoy a spot of hiking, fishing and horse riding before driving to Bandelier National Monument. Soak up the rays during your 1.5-mile walk along a mesa, viewing cavates, petroglyphs, and the Ancestral Pueblo village of Tsankawi as you stroll.
Abiquiú
Although we stayed in Los Alamos for the night, we’d recommend heading straight to Abiquiú if time allows. Note - this drive is spectacular and demands to be seen in daylight. Abiquiú is steeped in unspoken spirituality. I’m not the woo-woo sort, but there’s a palpable sense of secluded serenity amidst the mountains.
Where to stay: The Abiquiú Inn
The Abiquiú Inn wasn’t part of our original itinerary, but we just happened to stumble across it. A family-owned jewel of a hotel, The Abiquiú Inn offers a calming retreat where art and nature converse. Located along the ancient Rio Chama, guests can book into the cosy casita (or uber-luxe, safari-style Drumlin House that looks onto the sprawling mesa) before meandering through the impressive sculpture garden - home to a large collection of works by 50 different artists. Hang out with the hotel’s friendly rescue horses or inhale an iced latte on the deck while watching fellow wide-eyed visitors map the unforgettable grounds.
© Tania LeslauWhat to do:
There is one thing and one thing only to do in ambient Abiquiú - tour Georgia O’Keeffe’s Home and Studio. Check into the Georgia O’Keeffe Welcome Center and hop on the shuttle bus that coils up the hill to the legendary artist’s spectacular home. Courtesy of expert tour guides, visitors can explore O’Keeffe’s meticulously irrigated garden, where she grew her own vegetables; the home’s pueblo-style courtyard, now inhabited by resident feline, Maya; the light-flooded kitchen stacked with Le Creuset crockery; and the artist’s expansive home studio, which boasts breathtaking views, alongside her modest bedroom overlooking the sweeping panoramas of her beloved New Mexico. Style enthusiasts can even peek inside her wardrobe, lined with the artist’s signature androgynous kimonos, monochrome staples and lightweight layers, with a few pairs of Ferragamo flats thrown into the mix.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauThe tour offers a real insight into the mind of the genius, who filled her home with rocks, bones and other found objects that sparked her imagination, in addition to icons including Andy Warhol, Joni Mitchell and Calvin Klein. O’Keeffe lived in the mid-century house from 1949 until 1984, and, following her death in 1986, it has been preserved exactly as she left it.
© Tania LeslauThe artist split her time between her cherished Abiquiú home and a summer house at nearby Ghost Ranch, some twelve miles away. Purchased in 1940, the sprawling 21,000-acre property offered O’Keeffe an even greater sense of solitude, its otherworldly landscape providing the inspiration and backdrop for some of her most celebrated works. Be sure to hit the road in search of the sensational Ghost Ranch on your travels - the drive is not to be missed. Make the most out of the Wild West settings with a picture-perfect horseback ride or hike.
Taos
Onto the final stop of the road-trip: Taos. This leg of the journey volunteered perhaps the most brilliant scenery of all, with the winding roads of the Taos Scenic Byway leading us through rugged mountain ranges, sparse grasslands and snippets of classic small-town America. We also stopped off to visit Roman Catholic site El Santuario de Chimayó and Ranchos de Taos, the most photographed church in the US. Taos itself feels rather small following this majestic route, yet there is still plenty to do in the hotspot that sits just four hours from the Colorado border.
Where to stay: Hotel Willa
Featuring a retro-infused motel exterior that masks a 5-star haven within, Hotel Willa delivers a slice of luxury within the bohemian Northern town. Airy, modern and spirited, the hotel feels inviting yet undeniably cool - with guests spanning Birkin-armed blondes to celebrity stylists and young families.
© Tania LeslauRecline by the glassy turquoise pool with a spicy margarita in hand (yes, another one) or relax in your room, which is lined with Aesop products and locally produced snacks. There’s no need to worry about where to go for dinner because your best bet is onsite. Book into Juliette Restaurant and watch the sun set upon the building’s adobe-hued walls, the interiors of which are dotted with colourful artworks by the state’s creatives. Delve into a sizeable portion of chargrilled chicken and polenta grits sourced by local farmers, while your meal is soundtracked by live music and the amiable chatter of locals.
What to do:
In short, shop. Taos is relatively small, so it’s easy to cover a lot of ground in one day (which, as serial shoppers, you best believe we did.) Marvel at Native American jewels in pristinely curated boutiques such as Artwares Jewellery, Mesa’s Edge, Touchstone Gallery and The Indigo Market. Then, it’s time to thrift. Our first port of call was The Arc Anewera, where we uncovered preloved Gucci loafers, Jil Sander tailoring, 2010s Marc Jacobs silks and authentic leather cowboy boots galore.
© Tania Leslau
© Tania LeslauSeconds is stocked with quirky upcycled pieces that make for memorable souvenirs, while Sky-Eagle Collection celebrates Native American excellence via sustainably crafted and size-inclusive design. Time and patience permitting, stop by Michelle’s, Reneux and Rethreads for more vintage deliciousness.
Final thoughts
As a journalist writing for a predominantly British audience, I’m always keen to offer a first-person perspective on the diversity of the United States. This trip - weird, wonderful and unlike anything I’ve experienced before - only reinforced my belief that America is far more culturally rich, complex and varied than the political narratives that so often dominate international headlines.
As someone who visits the country every year, I think it’s important to convey that broader, more nuanced picture. New Mexico may not be an obvious destination for European travellers, but perhaps that’s precisely its appeal- a place for the more adventurous, curious roamers willing to venture beyond the expected.
With its complex yet vivid cultural history, steeped in Native thought and tradition, New Mexico lives up to its name as the Land of Enchantment. But I’d go further: it is a land of storytelling. From the canvases of Georgia O’Keeffe to Oppenheimer’s controversial equations, and the ancient pueblos preserving thousands of years of innovation, spirituality and community, New Mexico’s stories are as layered as its landscapes. It’s a destination that’s likely far from the top of your bucket list, but as one of America’s best-kept secrets, perhaps it’s time to put it on your radar.
