In October, Grand Duke Henri of Luxembourg will hand over the reins of the dynasty to his eldest son, Prince Guillaume. To mark the event, Grand Duchess, Maria Teresa, welcomed Franco-Venezuelan historian Laurence Debray to her impressive home, Berg Castle, to lookback over the era that's ending and share her excitement over what's to come.
She arrives and leaves by taxi. At an informal dinner at the home of mutual friends in Paris, the Grand Duchess is just another guest. There is no protocol. I think she actually likes it that way. When my husband, who didn't recognise her, asks while pouring her a glass of champagne, "What do you do?", she isn't offended. On the contrary, she's delighted to explain her commitment to social and humanitarian causes, through her association Stand Speak Rise Up! and the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Foundation.
The conversation is lively and direct with nothing off-limits. We talk about her country of origin, Cuba. There's some irony here, because she had to flee her country at the age of four because of the Castro revolution, while my parents actively supported it.
© JESÚS CORDEROMaria Teresa manages to inspire both respect and warmth. The coolly elegant woman who poses next to Grand Duke Henri in the official photos reveals herself to be extraordinarily human and sincere. She is committed to life, to her projects, to the Crown, to her family, to herself. Her official position has not crushed her personality.
Handing over to their heirs
When I see her again a few months later, this time at Berg Castle with her husband, I wonder if she will be the sparkling, free and socially committed person she was in Paris or a Grand Duchess constrained by her role.
The building has an imposing appearance, with turrets worthy of Sleeping Beauty's castle. The flight of steps up to the entrance is majestic, but the tidy row of boots, hats and warm jackets in the hall shows that this is the setting for real family life. On the ground floor there are reception rooms.
© JESÚS CORDEROWe carry on up to the first floor, to the private apartments. There, the Grand Duke and Duchess welcome me warmly, in the down-to-earth manner of people who have nothing to prove. They are a united, harmonious and attentive couple, whose benevolence and altruism are clear to see.
After 44 years of marriage, what is their secret? Somehow I don't dare to ask them for marital advice. They're currently counting down to a change: having settled here in 2000, when the Duke's father, Grand Duke Jean, abdicated and passed the baton to Henri, their own turn to leave has now come. Soon they will retire to the royal estate at Fischbach to make way for their own heirs.
The spaciousness of Luxembourg's palaces, the weight of history and the isolation of her role could have pressed heavily on Maria Teresa, but she has an endless ability to adapt.
"I am an exile, but I feel at home everywhere. I redecorate a little, I bring out family furniture that was in storage and I feel at ease," she explains.
Her husband, meanwhile, calmly and patiently explains to me the particularities of the Luxembourg Crown and the family ties that connect it to all the other European royal families. Concerned about the challenges facing international politics and the environment, he shows himself to be an informed and thoughtful man who's keen to share his thoughts. He's not one to get excited about the latest gossip on social media, which, in fact, he doesn't look at. Slim and lively, his appearance belies his 70 years and, after reigning for the last 25 of them, he's now enthusiastically getting ready for a very active retirement.
© JESÚS CORDEROLife at the Castle is quite relaxed. Obviously, the rooms are immense and splendid, but at lunch, behind closed doors and without staff, the atmosphere is more intimate and comfortable. Maria Teresa, who celebrated her 69th birthday on 22 March, is dynamic and committed to her duties. But she also likes to have fun, to laugh, and she later puts on her Latin music playlist to liven up our photo shoot.
But to focus on the Grand Duchess's lighter side would be to underestimate her. When I enter her immaculate dressing room I understand the degree of organisation and professionalism she has imposed on herself. She knows exactly what suits her and what is suitable for each occasion. She knows at once what she wants to wear for the shoot and puts on her own make-up.
Later, when we visit the library, I see that it is every bit as well organised as her dressing room. There's a shelf given over to the books of my brother-in-law, the psychiatrist David Servan-Schreiber, which helped her through some difficult moments. Although seeing her dynamism you'd never know it, she suffers terrible knee pain, making every step painful. It's the price she pays for the 15 years when she studied ballet to professional level followed, since 1981, by long hours spent standing in heels during official events.
An intimate conversation with the Grand Duchess
In a candid interview with Laurence Debray at Berg Castle, the Grand Duchess revealed herself as a woman unafraid of retirement or old age. She's happy to begin the next stage of her life with her husband and proud to pass the baton onto the next generation with a sense of "duty fulfilled".
Have you managed to find a balance between your public and private roles?
"I admit that I haven't devoted as much time to my five children as I'd have liked. Official life has often taken precedence over family life, and that's something I regret. My husband and I have worked around the clock to serve the country."
© JESÚS CORDEROHow did you bring up your son Prince Guillaume, who will take over as Grand Duke in October?
"It was complicated, because he was an older son whose destiny was already decided, who would occupy a role for which we needed to prepare him, but we didn't want the other children to feel envious. I explained to them that while he'd have privileges there would also be a lot of obligations and restrictions on his freedom, whereas they could choose what they wanted to be.
"I told them that they should all look after each other and support their brother because the position he was going to occupy is a lonely one. Today I'm very proud of them; they've all found their place. Guillaume is very happy with his destiny, and the other four wouldn't want it themselves."
When did you and the Grand Duke decide to abdicate?
"It's a family tradition that goes back to Henri's grandmother, Grand Duchess Charlotte. Then his father Jean did the same. What is special and doesn't exist in other monarchies is the transition period we have, which makes things smoother. The Grand Duke chooses to delegate some of his powers to his heir for a period decided by mutual agreement, while remaining as head of state. With Guillaume and his wife, Princess Stéphanie, we decided on a one-year transition.
"So the abdication isn't something radical. After reigning for 25 years, at our age and with such a well-prepared heir, we're able to pass on the baton and enjoy some rest. We also felt it was important not to make our heir wait too long. Guillaume is 43, with a wonderful wife and two wonderful children."
© JESÚS CORDEROWhich of your achievements as Grand Duchess are you most proud of?
"Before my husband ascended to the throne I made a great effort to get to know the country and its people. I tried to give comfort to the most vulnerable by making informal visits to all the social institutions like hospitals and shelters for the homeless and disabled.
"When I got married I set up the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Foundation. That has led to some memorable moments. For example, one day the Foundation received an unexpected donation. It turned out to come from the will of the woman who ran the newspaper kiosk where I had bought a paper every morning after dropping the children off at school.
"Speaking of the children, my son Louis suffers from dyslexia. I didn't know how to help him so I immersed myself in the subject. Back then there was little help available for dyslexics in schools, so in 2016 I set up a forum, supported by the Ministry of Education, to bring together international specialists. It had a record attendance of more than 2,000 people and Louis himself gave a very moving testimony. It influenced some of the ways we aid children with special needs in general."
© JESÚS CORDEROUnited Nations Champion
After your abdication, how will you continue to serve the country?
"I'll continue working to help people in need through my Foundation and my association, Stand Speak Rise Up!, which works to end rape as a weapon of war. In 2021, I was recognised for my work in this area with the title of United Nations Champion."
As a Cuban exile, was it difficult to settle elsewhere?
"My parents decided that we shouldn't be nostalgic but should try to integrate. We arrived first in New York then, when they realised that we couldn't return to Cuba, they decided to settle in Geneva. I was nine years old. It was a huge cultural leap because at home I spoke Spanish and my family was conservative; whereas at school we spoke in French and it was more liberal. I was very proud of my Cuban roots, but I kept them buried in my heart because I was worried about assimilating.
"When I was 25 I got married and it was my husband who told me: 'You need to find your roots'. I answered that I had finally found my identity in Luxembourg and was grateful to the people for welcoming me. But in the end I listened to him and went on a journey to Cuba with my sister and two of my children. It was a revelation. I saw myself reflected in the people. I understood where my temperament came from. I fell in love with the country and came back transformed. I found myself."
© Sophie MargueYour marriage has lasted for 44 years. What's your secret?
"I don't know how to explain the power of love. We grow together, we change together and we choose paths that bring us ever closer to each other. Henri says that I am 'his first and only great love'. When a man tells you that, and acknowledges it publicly, it gives you wings!"
Are you afraid of entering the next stage of your life?
"No, these are happy moments. I've spent 44 years in the spotlight and am relieved that that's coming to an end. And I'm not worried about getting old because I've never felt so good, so fulfilled and so at peace with myself as I have this last decade.
"I hope to stay healthy for as long as possible. My humanitarian work motivates me, and of course I'm looking forward to being able to travel with my husband, to seeing my grandchildren grow up and to discovering new horizons. I'm trying to grow old as elegantly as possible!"
Tell us about your role as grandmother.
"I was lucky enough to have two grandmothers who played a key role in my development and I know how decisive that is. So it's very important to me to be there for my grandchildren and to nurture a relationship of trust with them."
Finally, what advice would you give to your daughter-in-law, the future Grand Duchess?
"I'm not going to give Stéphanie any advice! I believe that each royal couple must adapt to the needs of their time. But I'm happy to share my experience and to answer any questions and concerns."
