Sipping on a freshly-shaken cocktail and taking in what is surely the best panoramic view of Luxembourg in the whole city - from the plush bar in my hotel, no less - I was feeling smug.
Usually, at this time of evening on the same day as taking a flight, I’d be flagging. But the beauty of minibreaking in Luxembourg, I was finding out, was that I’d discovered a city that is actually weekendable from London – without the tiredness that comes hand-in-hand with an up-at-the-crack-of-dawn airport dash.
How so? Well, that morning I’d taken a very civilised flight with LuxAir from London City Airport. It took less than 10 minutes from arrival to gate - and the flight itself took just 50 minutes (with a complimentary sandwich and drink thrown in, may I add; a rarity these days).
Once we landed in Luxembourg, it was an easy-breezy 15-minute drive to what would be my base for the coming two days: the Sofitel Luxembourg Le Grand Ducal. And all within an hour and a half of boarding the plane!
What to see in Luxembourg?
With a reputation as a financial hub – and the home of the European Court of Justice – I must admit it wasn’t hugely on my radar as a leisure destination. But I was completely wrong! It’s a totally charming and cosmopolitan place for a weekend break – and now, as the city hosts its beautiful Christmas markets, it’s an even more special time to visit.
Firstly, the city centre is very walkable. And if you do want to venture further afield, the tram service (as clean, reliable and efficient as you’d expect) is totally free to use.
We did a guided walking tour of the old town which ensured we ticked off all the major sights in one fell swoop – the Grand Ducal Palace, the Chemin de la Corniche (often referred to as 'Europe’s most beautiful balcony' - not hard to see why!), the Golden Lady war memorial statue at Place de la Constitution, and the statue of the Grand Duchesse Charlotte, a wildly popular royal who became known as a symbol of Luxembourg’s independence while in exile during World War II.
We also did a fascinating tour of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Bock Casemates – a network of underground tunnels dating back to the 17th century that are carved into rock and served as a military fortress. (Please note, these are not open during the winter season.)
Venturing away from the old town, we hopped on a tram and visited the city’s very modern Grand Theatre – a cultural hub located in the financial district close to the European Court of Justice. Top tip – if you decide to see a show there, stop off for lunch at the Radici restaurant in the Sofitel Luxembourg Europe. An Italian that prides itself on recreating ‘Nonna’s’ cooking, there’s a twist on classic dishes and a wonderful wine menu to enjoy.
Where to stay?
Perfectly located just a 10-minute scenic walk from all the action, of which, despite being a tiny capital city, there is plenty, the Sofitel Luxembourg Le Grand Ducal is a 5-star luxury hotel and the perfect place to play host to your time in the city.
The aforementioned bar, L’Observatoire, is on the eighth floor. Try to time your trip up there for sunset – you won’t regret it. The talented bartenders will whip up any cocktail you fancy (I even took part in a cocktail-making masterclass – mine was a classic vodka martini) before you head for dinner next door in the Mu Luxembourg. This restaurant, which also boasts panoramic views, presents a varied menu drawing on global culinary traditions, and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
This is one of the top hotels in Luxembourg - and it shows. In fact, I was there the weekend that Grand Duke Henri abdicated and his son Guillaume ascended the throne – and many of the members of the European royal families were staying too, which made for excellent people-watching over the breakfast buffet.
Speaking of breakfast, don’t miss La Haute Croissanterie – think elevated pastries that look almost too good to eat. Definitely worth getting out of bed (and the beds in this hotel are award-winning!) for. Meanwhile, the 128 rooms have all undergone a recent refurb, including in the largest suite in Luxembourg, so everything feels brand new and very elegant.
Getting into nature
On my final morning, I had a couple of hours to fill before heading back to the airport. I crossed the road outside the hotel and followed a steep path down into the picturesque Grund area of the city, alongside the Alzette River. With its quiet, cobbled streets and quaint buildings, it was the perfect place to just wander and explore, and I felt as though I’d immersed myself in nature. Some refer to this as the fairytale district, and a ‘village within a city’. If you get a chance, it’s a wonderful place to while away some time.
Final thoughts
I have already recommended a short trip to Luxembourg to so many people. The fact you can get there so easily makes it the perfect mini break from London - and, with great food, a walkable Old Town and picturesque and historic sights to explore, it's a real hidden gem.