As I looked out across Playa Guiones, a lush tree-lined beach renowned for its consistent surf breaks, I watched experienced surfers glide over some of the world’s best breaks. They made riding the waves appear effortless. I, on the other hand, as a relative novice, felt more than a little worried.
Standing on the golden sands at Nosara on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast, I was meeting 26-year-old instructor Jadder from Chorotegas Surf for a private 90-minute surfing lesson. During this time, he taught me how to go from paddling to standing upright before sending me to the water to practice with my board. For a microsecond, I did it – I actually surfed – and it felt exhilarating. Then I fell off and inhaled enough sea water to decide to call it a day.
© Susie BearneTucked away on the Costa Rican Nicoya Peninsula, wave-blessed Nosara is considered a surfer’s paradise. Not only is it home to some of the best breaks in the world, but it also scores another accolade: Nosara can be found within one of the world’s ‘Blue Zones’. These specially designated areas comprise longevity hotspots; each is inhabited by an exceptionally high concentration of centenarians, often in good health.
The Nicoya Peninsula is a destination for unwinding and feeling Zen. Yes, there are surf shops on every corner, but there’s also an abundance of yoga and sound baths, as well as organic produce sold at the weekly farmers market (held every Tuesday).
Which beach is right for you
You’ve got your pick of beaches along this coastline – there’s Playa Guiones, with its tropical vegetation providing shade; Playa Pelada, a white sandy beach with rocky formations; or Playa Garza, a quieter beach where you’re likely to see fishermen in boats bobbing in the bay. Within Nosara lies Playa Guiones, the main beachtown with low-level whitewashed houses, open-air restaurants, boutiques and a popular organic store.
I decided to return to the waters, opting for a kayaking trip through the mangrove-lined Montaña River. En route, our tour group spotted large-winged frigates and herons wheeling in the air, and bright red and yellow crabs crawling along the banks of the river. During our four-mile kayak we reached the striking black sand of Nosara beach, where more crabs skittered along the shore; the drone-like sound of cicadas thrumming in the background. It was infinitely more calm than my surfing experience.
Keep calm and carry on
Continuing the theme, I decided to indulge in some wellness. I rose early for a group yoga session at Tierra Magnifica’s Yoga Shala, an open-air space with a high thatched roof and panoramic views overlooking Playa Guiones and the Pacific Ocean.
At Sendero Hotel I joined a Pilates and an invigorating breath class, while at Esh hotel I felt restored after rotating between its outdoor wellness pool, sauna and cold plunge tank. You can’t come to one of the most biodiverse countries in the world and not be immersed in the outdoors or see the wildlife. In fact, the soundtrack of jungle-rich Nosara is the deep growling of howler monkeys, which can be seen as you walk through town.
One afternoon I made a beeline for International Animal Rescue Costa Rica, which rescues, rehabilitates and releases injured and orphaned wildlife, for a guided educational tour about its tireless work (about 100 animals came through its doors last year as a result of electrocution on power lines, which monkeys frequently mistake for trees and vines).
The experience made me want to give something back, so the next day I rose unusually early to join a 7am tree-planting tour arranged through Esh hotel with non-profit Costas Verdes, which has tackled deforestation by planting over 100,000 trees along the coast. We learned about the organisation before planting a beach almond tree along Playa Guiones.
A place to stay for every traveller
There are a surprising number of stylish places to stay along this stretch of coast. Set in the rainforest jungle above Nosara, Tierra Magnifica serves up soul-stirring views of the bay. When you’re not lazing about by the pool on its creamy sunloungers, you can spot monkeys swinging from tree to tree in the surrounding jungle.
If you want something central and hip, Sendero Hotel has chic rooms with Crittall-style floor-to -ceiling frames and alfresco showers with your own outdoor area to hang out in. Its open-air restaurant is buzzing and popular with non-guests too.
For five-star luxury, Esh Hotel is an adults-only retreat located in the rainforest with stylish cream-coloured day beds surrounding a three-tiered outdoor pool and an open-air restaurant with a Latin American and international menu.
If you’re looking for more of a surf vibe with a killer location in central Guiones, opt for Sunset Shack Hotel. It lies just several minutes’ walk through the jungle to Playa Guiones, has an outdoor pool and restaurant, and colourful rooms with kitchens.
After eight nights in Nosara, I felt restored – even blissful – from being so connected to nature. My takeaway wasn’t a little trinket picked up at a souvenir shop; it was coming away with a sense of Costa Rica’s unofficial motto: “pura vida”. Here, there is no denying they’ve found the secret to the “pure life”.
How to book it
Where to stay
Tierra Magnifica has double rooms from £369 including breakfast; Sendero Hotel has double rooms from £291 excluding breakfast; Esh Hotel has double rooms from £211 including breakfast; Sunset Shack Hotel has double rooms from £118 including breakfast. Fly to San Jose and from there, drive or take the bus (about five hours) to Nosara. Alternatively, you can fly to Nosara Airport and take a taxi.
What to do
Experience Nosara offers kayaking for up to three hours for £55 per adult. Chorotegas Surf offers beginner surf lessons for 1.5 hours for £100. International Animal Rescue Costa Rica offers educational tours for £44.
Suzanne Bearne was a guest of the hotels, International Animal Rescue Costa Rica, La Luna, Harmony Hotel restaurant, and Experience Nosara. All hotels and experiences have been independently reviewed by our expert writers, who are usually hosted on a complimentary basis, but this never affects our review process.
