Saying Sam McKnight ‘does hair’ is like saying Picasso dabbled in paint. His visionary creativity and elevated tastemaker sensibilities have shaped the face of fashion one artfully undone follicle at a time, firmly securing his position as undisputed hair royalty. (He was, incidentally, the mastermind behind Princess Diana’s iconic short crop and a personal favourite of hers throughout the nineties).
Effortless ‘cool girl’ hair is his insignia and fittingly the namesake of the best-selling franchise in his multi-award-winning range. We caught up with him at his West London studio to celebrate the launch of two clever new additions to the family, including a game-changing volumizing treatment designed to give limp locks an instant lift.
© Getty ImagesAs he regaled us with pure fashion gold; from 1980s couture gowns being flown in (and out) by Concorde for fashion shoots to the legendary backstage escapades of the OG supermodels, he confessed that volume remains the single biggest concern he is asked about by clients today. In the spirit of sharing expert secrets when we have access to the Madonna of hair, here are his four core rules (not that he believes in rules) for injecting serious, lasting life into flat hair:
RULE 1: Start With The Scalp
“As with almost everything in hair care, a great hair day always begins with a healthy, balanced scalp,” says Sam. “If you’re dealing with any underlying scalp issues - whether that’s stubborn dandruff, sensitivity, or excess oil - you aren’t going to get proper root lift. Choosing hair care that respects and nurtures your scalp’s natural microbiome is paramount, which is something the industry as a whole is finally waking up to.
Many of my clients in their 40s and 50s are also discovering that perimenopause and menopause cause natural sebum production on the scalp to decrease, so re-balancing that moisture barrier is essential for maintaining volume.”
Sam’s Tip: If you suffer from a dry or tight scalp, use a lightweight, nourishing scalp oil as a pre-wash treatment, or leave it on overnight once a week for a deeply restorative reset.
RULE 2: Tailor Your Wash Day Routine
“People frequently underestimate the power of their shampoo simply because it gets rinsed down the drain, but choosing the right formula has a massive impact on creating volume that actually lasts,” advises Sam. He recommends steering well clear of heavy, coating formulas in favour of specific volumizing blends.
Regular washing is also non-negotiable if you want body. “The popular trend of skipping washes for days on end is not only a bit gross, but also bad for overall scalp health and the inevitable buildup of natural sebum will actively weigh down your roots,” he warns. “Make sure you apply conditioner strictly to your mid-lengths and ends. If your scalp needs extra hydration, treat it to a dedicated scalp mask - slathering standard rich conditioner on your roots is a guaranteed way to make them go flat.”
Sam’s Tip: Master the legendary ‘volume flip’. Blow-dry the final stages of your hair upside down, and blast your roots with your hairdryer’s cool shot button right before flipping back over to set that va-va-voom height into place.
RULE 3: Choose High-Performance Stylers
Creating lasting body isn't just about technique, it hinges on selecting clever, lightweight formulas that work with your hair's natural structure.
“We spent a huge amount of time formulating Hair by Sam McKnight Cool Girl Body, £29, because we wanted it to cater specifically to women experiencing fine, thinning, or fragile hair without compromising on nourishment,” explains Sam.
“When you're shopping for a volumizing product, look for formulas that provide a protective shield against atmospheric humidity - which wreaks absolute havoc on styled hair - alongside intelligent bond-building ingredients. Strengthening the hair shaft from within ensures that the height you build at the root is far easier to maintain throughout the day.”
RULE 4: Don't Be Afraid Of Rollers
© Getty ImagesIf there's one vintage tool that deserves a permanent spot in your modern routine, it's a set of classic velcro rollers - and Sam is adamant you don't need salon-level precision to use them. “So many people feel intimidated by rollers because they watch the videos online and think every section has to be wound perfectly, but you can literally just shove them in,” says Sam. “They’re your secret weapon for easy crown volume, and don't require any masterclass skills. It doesn't matter where you put them, they’ll help to give root lift and volume, the key is letting them cool - allow at least ten minutes – as that’s what is going to set them in place.”
Here’s to taking your style to new heights.
