Port Vila doesn’t just welcome you to Vanuatu, it gives you the whole archipelago in miniature. Wedged between a glassy lagoon and a deep, yacht‑busy harbour, the capital hums with mama’s market stalls piled high with papaya and island greens, French‑leaning cafés, kava bars, and outfitters ready to sling you toward reefs, ziplines, waterfalls and that famous Blue Lagoon out east. Rugged countryside rolls just beyond town; fast‑flowing rivers, hidden bays and village culture are all within day‑trip reach, which is why Port Vila makes such a smart base if you want to mix soft‑adventure with sundowners.
Here’s the twist: instead of bedding down in town, I hopped the resort ferry across the harbour—three unreasonably short minutes—and checked into Iririki Island Resort & Spa, a 69‑acre private island wrapped in tropical gardens and coral reef squarely opposite the Port Vila waterfront. My splurge digs? A Premium Overwater Faré: adults‑only, thatched, with a king bed, private deck over the water and sunrise views straight across to the township lights. Daily buffet breakfast, unlimited sea transfers, and free snorkel/kayak toys are bundled in, so you can play castaway without giving up café runs or market strolls.
© Iriki ResortChecking in: Life on stilts
The thatched‑roof Faré came with a king bed, private balcony, air‑con, Wi‑Fi and steps down to the water—plus all the resort inclusions that make settling in effortless: welcome drink, buffet breakfast, unlimited sea transfers, and free use of kayaks, SUPs and snorkel gear. Within minutes of check‑in I was off the balcony ladder and drifting over coral heads where butterflyfish flickered like confetti. (Pack a mask in your carry‑on; waiting for luggage is for land people.)
Iririki’s scale means options: two pools (one with a swim‑up bar), a hilltop day spa, tennis courts, gym, kids’ club, and nooks of lawn perfect for jet‑lag stretches. Because the ferry runs 24/7 you can hit town whenever, but on arrival day I stayed put, strolling garden paths perfumed by frangipani.
Dinner that evening was at Azure, Iririki’s signature fine‑dining room, cantilevered toward the township lights. Azure builds its menu around Vanuatu’s enviable produce, Santo beef, island‑grown organics and local seafood, which gets plated with an international twist. It’s a splurge by Vila standards (save it for your “proper night out”), but the romance quotient and harbour panorama make it worthwhile. Their seafood laksa, rich coconut broth, generous local catch, was the exact comfort I wanted after a travel day.
Mornings at Iririki begin on the Azure deck, where the daily buffet lays out tropical fruit, cereals, pastries and a live egg station; strong locally roasted Tanna coffee flows freely, and harbour breezes do the rest. By day two the staff were pouring my refill before I sat down. (Yes, you can linger. No one rushes you.)
Casting off into the ocean
Some family moments are made in museums. Others are made with fish blood on your hands and the sun on your back, grinning over the day’s catch. For us, the memory came courtesy of a thrilling half-day trip with Nambas Fishing Charters, led by one of the South Pacific’s most respected sportfishing experts, Russ Housby, and his brilliant partner, Laura.
Captain Russ isn’t just a boat operator; he’s a name that echoes through sportfishing circles across Vanuatu, New Zealand and beyond. With decades of experience, a deep knowledge of local pelagic species, and a calm, precision-driven approach on the water, Russ has earned a reputation as the guide to charter with when you're chasing the ocean's apex game fish. And then there’s Laura, warm, and genuinely excited to help you hook something incredible. Together, they make a powerhouse team.
© Marchant JamesOur adventure began at Havannah Harbour, where Russ and Laura greeted us aboard their immaculate 40-foot custom Blackwatch, an offshore vessel decked out with top-tier Shimano tackle, outriggers, tuna tubes and a live bait tank. You could tell immediately: this was no ordinary tourist charter. This was serious gear for serious fun.
Within minutes of lines going out, the action kicked off. A brilliant flash of green erupted from the waves, a bull mahi mahi, leapt and thrashed in the morning light. My son, already a seasoned young angler and utterly obsessed with the sport, took the rod with calm focus and the kind of excitement only a true devotee brings to the fight. The cheers when he landed that mahi could have been heard back in Vila.
© Marchant JamesNot long after, he was back at it, this time hauling in a sleek, silver-striped skipjack tuna that shimmered like metal beneath the rising sun. Watching him beam, hands bloodied, posing proudly for photos with both fish, I knew this was a day he’d never forget, and nor would I.
The beauty of Nambas Charters is how hands-on it is without ever feeling intimidating. Every step is handled with quiet professionalism, from baiting to gaffing to celebrating. Cold drinks and snacks are onboard, and the vibe is warm and welcoming even amid serious angling. For beginners, it’s the perfect entry into blue-water fishing. For pros, the boat and crew are dialled in and ready to put you on big fish.
© Marchant JamesRuss summed it up as we headed back to port: “Vanuatu’s still one of those rare places that isn’t overfished. You’ve always got a real shot at something big here.”
Post‑charter I rode the ferry back across the harbour and headed for Lalala, a beachfront Mediterranean‑leaning spot right on the Port Vila waterfront. Prices run high for Vila, so think “treat” lunch; in return you get sea‑breeze tables, a good wine list and grilled tuna so fresh it might have known the fish we’d just released. If you’ve spent your morning hauling pelagics, this is where you celebrate the ones that got away.
Afternoon adventure loop
Hire a driver (we used Bountiful Tours & Transfers) and string these three Efate classics into one glorious, splash‑heavy circuit east of town. Families love it; so do groups that never outgrew rope swings.
Stop 1: The Blue Lagoon
About a half‑hour from central Port Vila, the Blue Lagoon is a cyan oval fringed in mangroves and ringing with laughter. Entry is paid to local landowners (bring small cash), and facilities are basic but handy—grassy picnic patches, change rooms, platforms and rope swings for launching displays of questionable acrobatics. The colour shifts with the tide, from milky turquoise to lapis, and you’ll find locals and visitors mingling in equal measure. Pack towels, sunscreen, and a dry bag; there’s usually no food on site.
© Marchant JamesStop 2: Eton Beach
Ten or so minutes farther along the coast sits reef‑protected Eton Beach, where an offshore barrier keeps the lagoon calm and shallow perfect for younger swimmers, beginner snorkellers and anyone who just wants to float. The sand is soft, marine life colourful, and timing your visit around high tide gives the best depth. Again, expect a modest local fee; your vatu supports the community maintaining the site.
© Marchant JamesStop 3: Eden on the River
Swing inland toward the Rentapao River and you swap salt for fresh at Eden on the River—a lush eco‑playground 20 minutes from Vila with acres of tropical gardens, river swimming holes, mini‑golf, an adventure playground and the headline “Bridges of Eden” suspension‑bridge circuit (three bridges plus a mini zipline, built to high safety standards and suitable for a wide age range). There’s an on‑site café for cold drinks and snacks; allow at least an hour, longer if the kids discover the playground.
Back to the island
One reason Iririki works so well as a base is the ease of shuttling—complimentary sea transfers run around the clock, so when you’ve wrung every last splash from your day you’re never more than a few minutes from a hot shower and a harbour‑view sundowner. I rinsed the salt away, slipped into something dry and watched dusk turn the bay to molten copper from my balcony. Bliss.
For my farewell dinner I ferried back across to one of Port Vila’s long‑running crowd‑pleasers, the Waterfront Bar & Grill (in business since 1980). Tables sit beneath an authentic natangura thatched roof right on the harbourfront; local musicians play live sets; and the menu runs hearty, grilled seafood (fresh tuna and poulet fish when available), Vanuatu beef, pizzas, ribs, cocktails. It’s relaxed, family‑friendly and pure South Pacific come‑as‑you‑are. Grab a front table for sunset; stay for the music.
Practical side notes
How long to stay? You can reproduce my experience in 2–3 nights, but four gives you breathing space for weather hiccups and an extra snorkel morning. Iririki’s mix of on‑island amenities and easy mainland access makes extending painless.
Breakfast intel: Buffet plus live egg station daily on the Azure deck; good coffee and harbour views justify early alarms even if you were out late at Waterfront.
Fishing fans: Half‑day Nambas charters (approx. 5 hrs) target mahi mahi, tuna, wahoo and marlin depending on season; all quality tackle, crew and refreshments supplied. Book ahead in peak months.
Splash circuit packing list: Cash for entry fees (Blue Lagoon, Eton), reef shoes, towel, sunscreen, dry bag for phones; little to no on‑site food at the lagoon grab snacks in town first.
Faye James was a guest of Vanuatu Tourism
