Holidaying with young children can sometimes feel like you're just parenting abroad (is there any point in taking a two-hour flight to do the same thing, only without your home comforts?) But a new wave of hotels – like Das Mühlwald - Quality Time Family Resort – are ensuring that grown-ups can get a break too.
This four-star hotel in South Tyrol, Italy isn't just family-friendly, it's family-focused. Das Mühlwald pitches itself as a place for adults and children to spend time together, make memories, embrace nature, and take in the most stunning Alpine scenery. I visited with my two pre-school children to see if it delivers on that promise.
Run by the Tauber family, who have three young children of their own, the hotel is designed with little ones in mind. The most popular clientele are families with children aged from zero to six. The attention to detail is exceptional. From the moment you check in, where there's a dedicated play area at reception, your stay is tailored to be as stress-free as possible.
The setting – 9/10
Those unfamiliar with South Tyrol, a region increasingly peppered with family-focused hotels, may be surprised to hear German as the dominant language. Yet this is Italy's northernmost province, bordering Austria and Switzerland. South Tyrol was even part of Austria-Hungary before it was annexed in 1919, explaining why, culturally and linguistically, it feels very much like you've landed in Germany or Austria rather than Italy. Even the road signs are predominantly German.
The location is a win-win for Das Mühlwald. It's a countryside hotel set on an apple plateau, promising white apple blossoms in the spring (when I visited) and surrounded by the spectacular snow-capped peaks of the UNESCO-listed Dolomites. It really is a holiday home in the heart of nature and is easily accessible from Bolzano airport, which is a 45-minute drive away. The hotel offers a transfer service of £130 each way – convenient but expensive if you aren't renting a car, which I would recommend in order to properly explore the area.
Das Mühlwald boasts a simply stunning setting and breathtaking mountain views from every point of the hotel. In winter, it's a 15-minute drive to the nearest slopes, making it a popular ski destination.
A word on the pre-check-in communication too. A few weeks before your stay, the hotel communicates via WhatsApp, which I found very easy and personable.
Play – 9/10
Undoubtedly, the main draw of Das Mühlwald are the family-focused facilities, from the all-day supervised childcare (at no additional cost) to the different indoor and outdoor play areas. First, the kids' club. This is open daily for children aged two and above, and also includes supervised mealtimes. The programme involves fun activities like face painting, treasure hunts, or petting the resident sheep and goat in the mini "zoo". For children under two, there is a baby club, which has more restricted hours but is generous nonetheless. The kids' club is located right by reception, so you never feel too far away from your children.
Play begins quite literally from the moment you check in. Reception is strewn with a fleet of ride-on toys, shopping trolleys, and pretend groceries to buy from the mini Das Mühlwald shop. There's a nearby tunnel slide and climbing frames in Milli's hedgehog den that leads you down to the expansive Milli's play area. (Milli is the name of the hotel mascot who comes to visit once or twice a week). Here you'll find hours of entertainment in the form of the race track, trampoline, ball pit, jungle gym, table football, football and basketball court, and more.
There are two swimming pool areas, including one that has an adults-only sanctuary comprising three saunas, a whirlpool, and a relaxation zone. The family spa, however, really is exceptional. There's no need to pack water toys or arm bands; these are provided, as well as floats and noodles. For really little ones, there are two shallow pools with fountains, but older children above 1.25m can brave the wave slide which goes surprisingly fast. The heated outdoor infinity pool was a personal highlight for me, boasting serene mountain views, while pushing the button to open the sliding doors was a highlight for my three-year-old.
When it comes to the outdoors, the setting for the sandpits and playground couldn't be more idyllic – or expansive. We only discovered the tobogganing on the final day of our stay, showing just how much there is to do on site. As for the attention to detail, there are child-sized toilets and sinks in most of the play area bathrooms.
Although you could easily spend a week here without leaving the hotel, there is a fleet of buggies you can borrow to explore the local area, and there are a couple of very easy, pram-friendly walking routes direct from the hotel door. Slings and back carriers are also available to borrow.
The daily newsletter given to guests at breakfast helpfully signposts what's on that day in and out of the hotel, whether that's a foam party at the pool, or a farmer's market in a nearby town.
Eat – 8/10
Whether you book a room or a suite, your stay is full-board, which means you can literally eat most hours of the day. The package includes a buffet for breakfast and lunch, afternoon cakes and sweet treats, and a gourmet dinner featuring both à la carte and buffet options. Meals are served in the one main restaurant. You are given the same table for breakfast and dinner, whereas it's free seating for lunch (the terrace is particularly nice for alfresco meals).
© Alex Filz PhotographySouth Tyrolean cuisine is the best of both worlds, blending hearty alpine mountain food with Italian classics. The food at Das Mühlwald really is gourmet and the focus is on quality over quantity; although the buffet is not extensive, it is done very well. For breakfast, for example, the only hot options are omelettes or crêpes made to order, but both were very good. Again, for lunch, there is only a small selection of hot food including a pasta dish.
Dinner is a more elaborate affair with four courses served at the table (you make your choice at breakfast), plus salads and antipasti to start from the buffet, and cheese and ice cream to finish – also at the buffet. On the first evening, I did slightly dread the thought of having to sit through a six-course meal with my toddlers, but each dish comes out quickly and restaurant staff know their clientele. There is also a very relaxed atmosphere, with no one batting an eyelid if your child is going feral at the buffet, or having one too many scoops of the unlimited ice cream. If you do want a meal in total peace, you can drop your little ones off in the separate Milli's dining room for a supervised dinner.
As for the children's offering, buffet stations at their height encourages self service. There is always some kind of pasta as well as a more sophisticated option. Unlike many all-inclusive hotels, Das Mühlwald doesn't wheel out trays of chips and chicken nuggets (although you can order these off-menu at no extra cost).
As for drinks, self-service non-alcoholic hot and cold drinks are included in your room rate until 5pm. After that, even a bottle of water is charged at €5 (£4.32).
There's also a whole area dedicated to babies that is open 24 hours, where you can find cow's milk, biscuits, and jarred purées, as well as a microwave. Despite not needing this service, I personally thought this was amazing – not needing to pack a stash of pouches for your weaning babies is a dream.
The bar is open from 2pm and this is where we picked up our welcome glass of Prosecco at check-in. There tends to be a steady throng of families there enjoying cocktails and aperitifs just before dinner, which doesn't start until 6:30pm. I both do and do not recommend the Milli's mocktail for little ones. My three-year-old loved ordering it, feeling like a grown-up at the bar, but at €8 (£6.91) a pop, it felt fairly extravagant for strawberry juice.
Sleep – 7/10
The standard double room that would sleep a family of four (two adults, two children) is cosy. It has space for a baby cot and includes a sofa bed for an older child or children, but when pulled out, it would be quite tight. The newly renovated room, however, does offer a small balcony and if you're looking for somewhere to crash at the end of a busy day, this would be it. In high-season, rooms for a week for two adults and two children start from €3,900 (£3,368) on a full-board basis.
© ©Familienhotel Südtirol Das MFor the same price, I would recommend the slightly larger, but not as newly renovated, Room Ronja, where I stayed with my family. You have more space, including an expansive terrace. As well as providing a baby cot and a bed rail, we also had a nappy bin. The kids were given their own towel ponchos to take to the pool, and a tote bag to carry our belongings around, which was a nice touch.
As standard, there is no air-conditioning throughout the hotel, nor are there tea or coffee-making facilities in the rooms. The plastic-free toiletries also means you'll find shampoo and body wash in the form of organic soap bars. There is only a shower as standard, but you can borrow a baby bath. In fact, there is a whole list of things you can borrow with a refundable deposit; including everything from a nursing pillow and a bottle warmer, to a potty and a nightlight.
If you have a larger budget, I had a peek inside the beautiful Suite Pippi, which I would highly recommend – especially for parents who prefer not to share a room with their kids. Children sleep in a cosy nook in the living room, while grown-ups have their own double bedroom. There is also a kitchenette, sofa, and a terrace. In high-season, suites for a week for two adults and two children start from €4,700 (£4,059) on a full-board basis.
© ©Familienhotel Südtirol Das MValue – 8/10
Given the exceptional setting, the all-inclusive gourmet dining, the unlimited kids' club hours, and the plethora of indoor and outdoor activities for children, Das Mühlwald delivers on value for money.
The only extras you will see on your bill at check-out will be any drink orders after 5pm as well as laundry tokens (there is a washing machine and tumble dryer that can be used for €5; £4.32).
Any externally-operated tours and activities you go on, such as llama trekking, are also additional. But if you hire a car and organise your own hikes or day trips, that is more cost-effective. For stays between early May to late November, the Almencard Plus card is also included in your room rate, which includes use of public transport, some mountain railways, and entrance fees to some sights.
Additional information
Website: dasmuehlwald.com
Address: Via Schlossergasse, 40, 39040 Naz-Sciaves BZ, Italy
Phone: +39 0472 415204
Accessible: Yes
Family-friendly: Very
Dog-friendly: Yes, at an extra cost of €25 (£21.59) per day
How to get there
Bolzano, Italy is the nearest (and very small) airport to the hotel, approximately 37 miles away, and is worth flying into over the cheaper alternatives of Innsbruck in Austria or Verona in Italy, simply because it's faster. SkyAlps flies directly from Gatwick to Bolzano, with a flight time of roughly two and a half hours. In low season, they only fly twice a week, so make sure to check before booking your hotel.
The planes are a lot smaller, but in-flight snacks are included, as are pouches for babies. All passengers are allowed one personal item and one 8kg hand luggage, while additional checked bags are available to purchase.
The service was impeccable – no delays, and friendly crew members who went out of their way to make the journey with children stress-free.
