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Stella's family gathers for her sensual show while YSL goes East

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Stella McCartney's family-packed front row, complete with friends Sharleen Spiteri and Twiggy, made the designer's Paris show seem more like a gathering of the music clan than a highlight of the 2009 pret-a-porter season.

Even her father Paul's girlfriend, Nancy Shevell, made it to the French capital – though the discreet American was not to be seen at the show itself. Stella's three children were there, too, with the eldest, three-and-a-half-year-old Miller, calling out just before the lights went up: "Good luck, Mummy".

His mum's collection was a return to the muted sexiness that appeals to celebrity followers like Gwyneth Paltrow. Playsuits with long lapels and short-suits slashed to the waist announced a frisky new direction for the designer.

For after-dusk drinks the Saint Martin's graduate offered structured strapless cocktail dresses in a sophisticated palette of nude and pastel. Stella signature masculine tailoring was a recurrent feature in her jackets, which were slung over sequinned slips, dresses and skinny-fit trousers.

While the 35-year-old's presentation was a family affair, the Yves Saint Laurent show was also supported by the label's faithful friends. Catherine Deneuve, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer had responded to simple white invitations reading "Merci Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent", to honour the late master, who died in June.

Chief designer Stefano Pilati borrowed from the East, adopting elegant Oriental touches like kimono sleeves on open jackets in blue and black silk jacquard.

Fashion's current fascination with sheer fabrics was incorporated in transparent panels on army jackets paired with slim-cut, three-quarter-length trousers and cage-structured boots.

The final treat of the day was a novel 40th anniversary celebration for the French 'queen of knits' Sonia Rykiel. Forty designers interpreted her signature look - a Parisienne aesthetic comprising berets, stripes and Amelie-style charm.

Photo: © Alphapress.com
For the last couple of months the Beatle and his girlfriend Nancy have rarely been apart. On Thursday they travelled to the French capital where Paul's daughter Stella was presenting her spring/summer 2009
Photo: © Rex
Photo: © Alphapress.com
Plunge decollete playsuits epitomised a return to sex appeal for next summer 
Photo: © Rex
Photo: © Alphapress.com
YSL chief designer Stefano Pilati wore his fashion influences on his sleeve, introducing Oriental touches with kimono-style jackets 
Photo: © Getty Images

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