I’ve seen the Sunshine State from every angle: as an excited child all the way to a newlywed, as a road-tripper, as a parent (of a toddler, now a teen), on a group girls holiday and also with relatives (I have family in the US and Latin America) and, of course, as a travel journalist. All of these trips – from different ages and stages in my life – have added up, meaning I know where to return for guaranteed sunshine and smiles. From manatee-spotting in the northern creeks, to watching rollerbladers on Miami Beach, these are my best finds...
Anna Maria Island: best for seafood
Where to eat and where to stay
The exotic name alone attracted me to Anna Maria Island – or AMI – which is technically an island in the Gulf of Mexico but attached to the mainland by a breezy causeway. The moment your rental car crosses into AMI, the pace of life slows, with residents using golf carts to get about, and street signs guiding you to the beach via 'Pelican Drive' or 'Coconut Ave'. Fly into Tampa to get here quickest (an hour’s drive) or combine AMI with the Orlando theme parks (2.5 hours) as a wonderful antidote to the dizziness of Disney.
© Getty ImagesBut the biggest pull beyond the beach? The food. Fish and seafood are a feature of every meal on AMI, from a breakfast shrimp omelette at Rod and Reel Pier, to clam chowder at The Ugly Grouper, or sunset oysters at The Beach House. Dress code = flip flops.
How to book it: The best way to experience AMI is by renting a beach house. Endless Summer is a lovely blue-clapboard home with roof-terrace sea views, and a private pool and hot tub. With ping pong table, putting green, gas barbecue, and a golf cart included, plus room for 16 guests, it’s perfect for a multi-generational getaway (one week from £6,106, or £54pp per night, based on 16 sharing, seabreezevacation.com). Visit bradentongulfislands.com.
Sarasota: best for beaches
Where to go and where to stay
If you take your beaches seriously – like me – you may have heard of Dr Beach, who has been expertly ranking America’s coastal spots over the past 30 years. He vowed never to award any beach No.1 spot more than once – until he discovered Siesta Key. With Persil-white soft sand (thanks to the unique fact it’s almost 100 per cent quartz), clear warm waters year-round, and oodles of space for all, from frisbee throwers to young families, Siesta Key is Sarasota’s most beautiful beach. If not America’s.
© Getty ImagesLido Key is another gorgeous beach, as is Longboat, and they’re all linked by a free open-air trolley bus called the Bay Runner, which takes the hassle out of beach parking or finding directions. Lido Key could be considered the most crowd-pleasing beach, with everything on hand: lifeguards; outdoor showers; bathrooms; picnic tables and water fountains. Fill your cool bag at Lido Beach Pavilion where locals congregate, waiting in line for the famous Florida lobster roll at Lido Island Grill. When the sun sets and you’ve washed sandy toes, chic St Armands Circle is an alfresco dining and shopping district for cocktails or gelato, depending on your crew.
How to book it: Cirque St Armands is right on the shoreline, and has an unexpectedly theatrical feel, considering you’re on the beach – that’s because Sarasota became the 'circus capital of the world' in 1927 when the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus moved here (Hugh Jackman tells its story in The Greatest Showman). There’s zingy yellow striped pool parasols, feathered chandeliers and tent-like draped fabric ceilings. Doubles from £194; opalcollection.com. See visitsarasota.com
Key West: best for style seekers
What to do and where to stay
South Beach tends to get most of the attention when it comes to movie locations or fashion campaigns, but Key West is every bit as cool. It’s smaller too, less pretentious and has a fascinating history. Ernest Hemingway lived here in the 1930s and his stunning timber home, with yellow shutters, has been turned into a museum and gardens (hemingwayhome.com). Similarly, other well-preserved townhouses have become boutique hotels with courtyard swimming pools, or cafés and restaurants serving Key Lime pie and icy margaritas under the shade of tropical palms.
© Getty ImagesTennessee Williams and Truman Capote also lived here and the creative, inclusive atmosphere of LGBTQ-friendly Key West is irresistible. For independent shopping and places to eat, head for Duval St, and for twilight shenanigans make for Mallory Square (everyone applauds as the sun sets), though all the in-between streets are every bit as alluring.
How to book it: There’s two ends of the scale when it comes to Key West accommodation. With luxury cottages scattered across spectacular grounds, Sunset Key suits a splurge (two-bed cottages, sleeping six, from £528 per night; opalcollection.com). Or The Reach resort is still special, with a sandy beach position and pool, but more affordable rooms (sleeping four from £198 per night; hilton.com). See visitflorida.com.
Orlando: best for family time
Which park to choose and where to stay
In my opinion, Disney World Resort trumps Universal Studios, whether you have toddlers or teens – there’s just so much more to see and do beyond the rides (such as spectacular gardens in Pandora the World of Avatar, or living streetscapes at Star Wars Galaxy’s Edge and of course fireworks and street parades), which makes consecutive days way more manageable. I also recommend using the Disney water parks Blizzard Beach and Typhoon Lagoon on in-between days (included in ticket), as it changes the pace and gives everyone some down time.
© Getty ImagesHowever, I appreciate some park-goers consider Harry Potter non-negotiable, so dedicate early mornings to Universal; it’s a little-known fact that Hagrid’s Motorbike, Ollivanders Wand Shop and Harry Potter and the Battle at the Ministry are excluded from any express pass, so it’s all about how quickly you can get in line. Your jet lag will inevitably help with the early bird open time.
How to book it: I’ve stayed in a few Disney hotels and nothing beats Animal Kingdom, where rooms overlooking the 'savannah' (with giraffes, warthogs and zebras) make even bedtime feel special (sleeping four from £441 per night; disneyworld.co.uk/resorts). But it’s a pricey option, so I also recommend newly renovated Waldorf Astoria Orlando, which is still within the Disney estate and includes a free shuttle to the parks with stylish pools and chic places to eat (sleeping four from £299 per night; hilton.com).
New Smyrna Beach: best for living like a local
What to see and where to stay
One of the things I love most about New Smyrna is that even many Americans have never heard of it. On the surfy Atlantic coast, NSB has some famous neighbours – Daytona, Cocoa Beach, Cape Canaveral – but the enclave itself is a well-kept secret. Which is odd as it has everything you could wish for in a quintessential Floridian getaway...
© Getty Images/Cavan Images RFOn Indian River you may spot manatees and, if you don’t, you can get your marine fix at the Marine Discovery Center which organises on-foot and kayak tours. On Flagler Avenue, days revolve around brilliant street markets and nights around live music. Seafood is the order of the day with fried clams and steamed shrimp at every sunny terrace restaurant (I love Toni and Joe’s). And the beach is as wide as a runway, trimmed by towering palm trees; it’s so epic that cars can park up and families spill out from open trunks, filling the shore with buckets, spades, coolers and picnic rugs.
How to book it: CasaGo NSB has the rental market covered, which is how I choose to stay in New Smyrna as you can fill the fridge with all your favourite US goodies and then live like a local. Set back from the beach, you can rent big four-bed bungalows – ideal for families and groups – or choose a condo if you want front-line sea views (two-bed beach condos, sleeping six, from £1,050 per week; casagonsb.com). See visitnsbfl.com.
