Many of us have a certain makeup look we began applying in our youth and we've kept it going ever since. A pop of icy pink lipstick or solid black eyeliner, thick matte foundation to conceal oily skin or perhaps shimmery, powdery pink blusher?
Well, I'm sorry to break it to you, but, if, like me, you're over 50, it's not going to work for you anymore. In fact, it will likely highlight lines and pores, making skin look saggy and lacklustre.
It's common for us to hang onto a makeup look throughout our lives, not realising the effect it's having. However, the good news is that by making some tweaks and changes, you can get the glow back and look sophisticated, natural, and fabulous. This is what I've done, and the transformation has been enormous.
As told to me by the wonderful founder of Studio 10 makeup, Grace Fodor, it's all down to texture, finish, and colour.
1. No more powders!
As we age, our skin changes and we get fine lines and wrinkles. Skin becomes thinner and tends to become drier. This shows up particularly in the area around the eyes. We're also prone to more enlarged pores.
To counteract this, we need products with an ultra-creamy texture that are not too thick. If it's too heavy, it’s going to cake. Lotions, creams, and gels are the textures to go for. Ditch the powder blusher, and you'll look fresh and dewy. Powder sits on top of the skin and accentuates pores and lines, whereas creams will melt into the skin and can be blended and buffed.
I now avoid all powders and go for creamy or liquid foundations and blushers, and it's made a huge difference. When I'm posting on Instagram or YouTube, people remark on my skin constantly. This is all down to the type of makeup I use these days.
Studio 10's 'Plumping Blush Glow-Plexion' £26, is my personal blusher of choice. It's a light gel in a perfect peachy pink that suits nearly everyone. They also do a creamy compact foundation that you can apply as heavily or lightly as you want. If you have redness, spots, or pigmentation to cover, it's going to do the job.
I'll also sometimes use a liquid foundation, keeping it as light as possible. Charlotte Tilbury has discontinued the one I’ve been using, so I'm on the hunt for a new one. I'm going to be checking out the range at Cosmetic á La Carte as they have some nice dewy textures.
Blending is key to good makeup. It's essential to have brushes of different shapes and sizes to apply and blend. I love the range at Studio 10. They have a large double-ended face brush to apply foundation from one end and blend with the other.
Changing the texture of my makeup and ditching the powder has been the most fundamental change I’ve made to my makeup look.
2. Matte is not your friend
As our skin becomes more lacklustre with age, we don't want to use matte products. We need makeup that will give our skin a boost rather than a flattening effect.
Look for products that illuminate the skin with a dewy finish. This is particularly important with foundations. Even some cream versions will have a matte finish. Look for hydrating versions instead.
3. Go natural with colour
We need to add definition to thinning brows and lips with natural colours. Fill in your brows and it can take years off your face. Use a neutral lip pencil to outline the shape of your lips and make them look fuller. I always trace along the outside of my lip line and then add my lipstick of choice.
4. Stop wearing black eye makeup
Black used on the eyes looks striking in youth, but as we mature, it starts to drain us. A perfect example is jet black hair. It's no longer flattering at a certain age, as it becomes too harsh and draining. The same with eye colour. That thick black eyeliner will no longer serve you. You can still use dark colours, however. A dark mocha or pewter gives the same intensity around the eyes but is so much more flattering. I adore a dark brown. I adore the Kajal eyeliners by Victoria Beckham, £32 / $38.50.
5. Reevaluate your smoky eye
I do the grown-up version of smoky eyes, which entails putting a light colour on the lid and a darker colour in the socket as well as a sideways V shape on the outside edge of the lid. All perfectly blended (you can find demonstrations on my YouTube channel).
I used to apply thick black powder all over my lid. It looked amazing at 30, but now it would look seriously overdone and unflattering. My grown-up version has taken me from red carpet to glitzy party and serves me very well.
For more advice, watch my video with Grace below on what not to do with makeup in midlife...