The cult of Rouge Noir: Chanel’s iconic ’90s shade, reimagined


Once a defining nail colour of the ’90s, Rouge Noir now evolves into a full makeup collection - proving its enduring power


chanel rouge noir © Chanel
Aaliyah Harry
Aaliyah HarryBeauty Writer
2 minutes ago
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There are few beauty shades as iconic, or as enduring, as Chanel’s Rouge Noir. The cult deep red-black hue is back once more but this time reimagined, in a new limited edition makeup collection. When Chanel launched Le Vernis Rouge Noir in 1994, the beauty landscape looked very different. Nails were pale, glossy and traditionally understated. Rouge Noir almost felt almost rebellious by comparison. History says the hue was created virtually by mixing pigments; cherry red with a drop of black for the French Fashion houses Autumn/Winter ready-to-wear show that year. Heidi Morawetz was the genius behind the move. The makeup artist worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld in the 90s, shifting the narrative around beauty and making it just as boundary pushing as fashion. 

chanel rouge noir model image © Chanel

Then came Pulp Fiction. Although never officially confirmed by the house, the shade was widely rumoured to be worn by Uma Thurman in her role as Mia Wallace. Whether on her nails or simply echoing the same vampy energy, the association was instant. Mia Wallace’s razor sharp bob, dark lips and effortlessly cool girl vibe cemented Rouge Noir as the colour of the moment - feminine, but powerful. Within weeks, the nail polish sold out worldwide. Waiting lists formed. Bottles were rationed. A single shade shifted beauty culture at the time. 

Over 30 years later, comes another chapter. Rouge Noir is revived and now goes beyond just nail polish but reimagined through quad eyeshadows, vivacious nail hues, velvety lip textures and inky mascaras. Chanel’s Global Makeup Creative Partner, Ammy Drammeh, has meticulously crafted a limited edition collection that leans into something richer and more nuanced: not just darkness, but depth. Think flushed mauves, magentas and pearly highlights that soften the gothic edge, making Rouge Noir feel utterly wearable for now.

Chanel Rouge Noir product pack shot © Chanel

If you get your hands on the iconic collection, here are two Chanel-approved ways to channel the modern vamp look this season and beyond. 

Look 1: Soft Vamp

This look is all about balance: romantic tones paired with sharp definition for a soft yet dramatic finish.

Rouge Noir collection model shot © Chanel

Complexion

Instead of a traditional blush, sweep the mauve pink shade 4 from Rouge Noir Confidence across the cheekbones using the Touch-Up Face Brush N°104 from Les Pinceaux Rouge Noir. Blend in gentle circular motions, lifting slightly towards the temples for a naturally sculpted flush that feels lived-in rather than overly done.

Eyes

Begin by applying the same mauve pink shade to the inner half of the upper lid with the Eye-Contouring Brush N°203, keeping close to the lash line. Next, take the magenta shade 1 and work it from the centre of the lid outward, tracing both the upper and lower lash lines before softly extending towards the temples. Blend the two shades together until seamless - the key here is diffusion, not precision.

To brighten the look, tap the pearly rosy white highlighter shade 2 into the inner corners using the Rounded Eyeshadow Brush N°204. Finish with a coat of Noir Allure Mascara Rouge Noir for definition that doesn’t overpower the colour story.

Lips

a close up image of lips with pink lipstick© Chanel

Outline the lips with Le Crayon Lèvres Rouge Noir before pressing in Rouge Allure Velvet Rouge Noir. The velvety finish keeps the look elegant rather than overly gothic.

Nails

Complete the look with two coats of Le Vernis Performer - glossy, refined and unmistakably Chanel.

Look 2: Rouge Noir After Dark

For evenings that call for something bold, this second look leans fully into Rouge Noir’s dramatic side. 

Chanel model shot © Chanel

Complexion

Apply the mauve pink shade 4 from Rouge Noir Confidence once again to the cheeks using the Touch-Up Face Brush N°104. Add a subtle glow by dabbing Baume Essentiel Cute onto the bridge of the nose with fingertips or the Retractable Highlighter Brush N°111,  just enough radiance to catch the light.

Eyes

This look starts with intensity. Take the sienna red shade with pink shimmer (shade 3) and draw a thick line along the lower half of the upper lid, starting at the centre and sweeping outward to elongate the eye. Blend gently with the Eye-Contouring Brush N°203 for a softened, smoky edge.

a woman wearing purple lipstick and pink eyeliner © Chanel

Apply Ombre Essentielle Gris Rose to the inner half of the eyelid using the Rounded Eyeshadow Brush N°204, blending carefully where the shades meet so they melt into one another. For added drama, line the entire eye's upper and lower lash lines and waterline  with Stylo Yeux Waterproof Rouge Noir, flicking out slightly at the corners. Finish with Noir Allure Mascara Rouge Noir for bold, inky lashes.

Lips

Glossy, lacquered lips bring contrast to the smoky eyes. Sweep on Rouge Allure Laque Ultimate for a high-shine finish that feels modern and confident.

chanel lipstick product shots © Chanel

Nails

Seal the look with two coats of Le Vernis Rouge Noir - the final, unmistakable signature.

From a nail polish that rewrote the rules in the 90s, to a modern makeup collection that celebrates individuality, Rouge Noir remains one of Chanel’s most potent beauty statements. Not bad for a shade that started with a rumour - and ended up becoming a legend.

Chanel's Rouge Noir Collection is available to shop now.