When I was invited to experience the five-star Hôtel Royal, part of the Evian Resort, the timing felt almost poetic: I had just celebrated 10 years of marriage, and my husband was turning 40. It should have been a magical weekend away, just the two of us. But, as any parent will know, mum guilt got the better of me and the thought of swanning off to a luxury spa without the kids felt impossible. Before I knew it, our romantic getaway had shapeshifted into a family trip during the October half term.
In the mad dash of family life, I barely had time to plan. Gone are the days of staying up late researching the perfect photo spot or hunting down the best meal. Lately, the days feel like they're passing at double speed, I can barely catch my breath, let alone curate an itinerary. So, when we flew into Geneva, it wasn't until the next morning that I realised we were, in fact, in France, not Switzerland.
© Andrea CaamanoÉvian-les-Bains, home to the iconic Cachat spring, is where the Evian Resort sits. The water still flows from this single source, and you can visit the original spring pavilion - and even fill a bottle for free. If you've ever bought a bottle at an airport, you'll truly appreciate this detail.
© Andrea CaamanoWe arrived at the hotel late at night, but its beauty was immediately apparent. Once settled in our 94m² Belle Époque Suite, we admired the incredible night views of Lake Geneva with a glass of champagne, because there's never a bad time for tired parents to celebrate while their children sleep.
© Andrea CaamanoThe suite was perfect for a family of four. My husband and I had a large bedroom all to ourselves, while the children slept in the room next door. They were thrilled with the bunk bed, a clever sofa conversion that, according to them, made this particular bunk bed "the best one ever." The highlight, if I'm honest, was the huge bathroom, which featured the perfect bath, with views of Lake Geneva.
© Andrea CaamanoThe next morning, we set out to explore the hotel. After a relaxed, healthy breakfast, we headed straight to the indoor pool. One of the perks of having young children is being first in the pool, and surprisingly, it was more relaxing than I ever could have expected. The children spent hours in the water while my husband and I kept an eye on them from the nearby indoor hot tub.
Our time in Evian was mostly rainy, but honestly, it didn't dampen the experience one bit. One of my absolute highlights was the outdoor hydrocontact circuit, which we tried both in the rain and on a sunny morning. The water is kept at a lovely 33°C, and it was just as enjoyable whatever the weather or time of day. Both the indoor and outdoor areas are perfect for children, though from 12–4pm they're reserved for adults only. It was very manageable, between lunch and a bit of downtime in the bedroom, the hours just slipped by.
Beyond the pools, the spa offers a sauna and steam room, and for the more adventurous, a cold plunge, snow cave, and an outdoor pool, which is accessible to guests, though it wasn't really a hit when we visited in the autumn. You won't miss it in the colder months; the warmer pools are much more inviting.
And of course, let's not forget the incredible spa and the treatments offered. While I was tempted to try their hair and nail salon, I chose the Experience Harmonie Sublime, a 60-minute relaxing and soothing body massage treatment designed to bring the whole body into harmony and help you completely 'let go.' Spoiler: it worked.
© Andrea CaamanoBut there's so much to do as a family beyond just waiting for the pool to reopen or indulging in spa treatments. We didn't use the kids' club ourselves, but it looked amazing, with an indoor pool and mini slides that other children were enjoying under the supervision of staff. We spent time on the football and tennis pitches and actually booked a family tennis lesson. Honestly, it was so much fun. My usual days are all about running the kids from one thing to another, but this time we were all in it together, and it felt like proper family bonding.
Mealtimes became another highlight. Just the four of us sitting together, with no need to rush anywhere, each lunch and dinner felt relaxed and special. We enjoyed different restaurants around the resort: breakfast and some a la carte dinners at La Veranda at Hôtel Royal; lunch at Umberto at the Evian Resort Casino, which included the need to take a shuttle to the lakefront side of town; brunch at Le Chalet du Golf; and dinner at La Table at Hôtel Ermitage. La Table felt the most kid-friendly; on our way out, we discovered a little sitting area full of toys, including Noughts and Crosses and dominoes. Yes, bedtime slipped by an hour, but honestly, family time like that is priceless, so I'm not complaining.
By the time we checked out, I felt more relaxed than I had in months. Somehow, even with two children in tow, we'd found a little slice of peace as a family. It wasn't the adults-only spa break I'd imagined - it was better. It was exactly what we needed.
Double rooms start from €475 (£405) and breakfast is included. To book, visit booking.com.
