The 'skinification' of hair is not a new trend. Treating your scalp the same way as your skin, with a routine that goes beyond the realms of shampoo and conditioner, comprising serums, oils and scrubs, has been on my radar for a while now. But as with every trend, the beauty editor in me likes to look at the facts before I invest time and money into yet another step in my beauty routine. After all, hair at midlife - I'm 50 next year - needs a bit more TLC than it did when I was in my twenties. So are all of these new scalp care serums and oils really worth spending our money on? I sat down with trichologist Kate Holden to get the facts.
She advises thinking of scalp products as skincare for your head. The scalp is living skin and home to, on average, 100,000 follicles. When our scalp is healthy, hair grows at a normal rate, it looks shiny, and is less prone to breakage. But when your scalp is ignored, hair can turn dry, the skin on your scalp can be irritated and flaky, and eventually, hair can grow thin. "Scalp serums can be helpful if they contain clinically backed ingredients such as peptides, niacinamide, caffeine, or stem cell extracts," Kate told me. "They can improve scalp health, increase circulation, and support stronger hair - but not all are created equal, so formulations matter."
I'm not the only one waking up to this trend. Searches for scalp care have jumped dramatically - monthly searches for scalp serum have increased 99% year on year, with an average of 12,870 searches per month, while TikTok’s #scalpcare hashtag has racked up over 1.2 billion views. Even #scalpslugging - the practice of coating your scalp and hair in oil overnight - has gone viral.
© Shutterstock / Maria Gladkova"Scalp slugging has been around on TikTok for a while now," Kate noted. "It can be beneficial if done occasionally and correctly. Massaging oils such as jojoba, argan, or coconut oil can help with a dry or flaky scalp and may improve your scalp health, and leaving oils on the hair can also boost shine and condition." However, Kate advises not to overuse oils on your hair as they can clog hair follicles and exacerbate any existing irritations, especially for those with sensitive scalps.
Scalp care doesn't have to be complicated
No doubt, prioritising scalp health, especially during midlife, helps to keep hair healthy. But Kate stresses that your routine needn't be complicated. She suggests regular exfoliation with a gentle scrub and the consistent use of a nutrient-rich scalp serum. "This can make a real difference," she says. Lifestyle habits have a huge effect, too. "Non-negotiables include eating a protein-rich diet, managing stress, checking ferritin and thyroid levels, and avoiding tight hairstyles or excessive heat," Kate explains.
When looking for the right products for you, Kate advises looking for hair growth serums with ingredients such as caffeine, biotin, peptides, niacinamide, zinc, and plant oils such as rosemary and pumpkin seed. And for your shampoos, Kate insists they should be gentle and free of sulphates, which can be drying and will strip the hair of natural oils. "Don't forget heat protection too," Kate adds. "Even if you're just using your hairdryer on a cooler setting, you still need to use it as damage adds up quickly."
Winter scalp care
In addition to midlife, our scalp also needs extra attention in winter, when it can become irritated due to cold weather and indoor heating strippin g moisture from the scalp, leading to dryness, tightness and flaking. Dermatologist Nora Jafaar adds: "Reduced humidity also means the scalp barrier becomes more fragile, while wearing hats can further trap sweat and oil, creating imbalance and irritation." Follow this expert advice for happy hair this winter...
1. Prioritise humectants
Scalp specialist dermatologist Sharon Wong recommends looking for haircare with humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin. As for what we should avoid, she notes: "Minimise further heat and dyes, if possible."
© Getty Images2. Add a step (or two)
"Introduce a hydrating scalp serum into your routine once or twice a week," says Nora. "Think of it as skincare for your scalp. Lightweight oils such as jojoba or squalane can soothe dryness without clogging follicles." Celeb stylist Larry King suggests: "Use a gentle scalp scrub once a week to lift off any build-up – but be kind, not scratchy." He says oils are also an option. "Massage it in – that stimulation helps get the blood flowing."
3. And skip one
Avoid dry shampoo, as this can clog up your scalp, and turn the hot water down to avoid dryness and tightness.
