Picture the Maldives and you'll likely imagine white sand, clear waters and a brilliant blue sky. But sadly, the latter was not what I got when I travelled to the destination in late November. I left a very miserable, damp Heathrow behind, only to land in an equally wet Maldives, with the forecast threatening at least a 75 per cent chance of rain for every day of my trip. Having travelled to the islands once before (also in November), I knew to expect a little rain each day – but what I got this time was torrential downpours almost constantly.
Disappointing, yes, but enough to ruin my trip? Not at all. While the Maldives is thought of as a destination with little to do other than basking in the glorious sun with a side portion of water sports when you've had enough sunbathing, I found that Kandolhu, the island upon which I was staying, had more than enough to offer even when the heavens opened – which they did, from dawn 'til dusk, but also, throughout the night when the winds were so strong I thought the roof was going to blow off my Deluxe Ocean Pool Villa.
Inside Kandolhu's Deluxe Ocean Pool Villas
Let me take a moment to pay tribute to Kandolhu's Deluxe Ocean Pool Villas. Newly refurbished this year, they're the epitome of the Maldivian luxury you picture when you dream of the islands. Totally secluded and accessed via a private boardwalk placed on stilts over the water, the deluxe ocean villas each have their own large infinity pool, as well as direct access to the crystal waters via a set of wooden steps, plus a hammock suspended over the sea from which to watch the world go by – and by the world, I mean sharks! Of all shapes and sizes, which made me shriek every time one slunk nonchalantly past.
Inside the villa was equally special, with a wine cooler full to the brim with high-end wines, restocked daily (included in the ultimate inclusions dining package). The mini bar, with premium spirits and soft drinks, was also refilled on a complimentary basis each day, meaning I was never short of a Diet Coke when the fancy took me.
The giant bed was the perfect place to hide from the storms, while the bathroom was divine too, with a jacuzzi big enough for two placed beside the window to watch the winds and rain blow by – and to admire the dramatic sunsets, which were amplified rather than diminished by the wet weather.
Though the whole ocean front side of the villa is made of floor-to-ceiling windows, it feels totally private, like you're in your own little world, swapping from wooden sun deck to the sea when the rain allowed.
What is there to do in the Maldives when it rains?
When I got over my disappointment that I wasn't going to return to the UK with a golden tan, I got stuck into all that Kandolhu had to offer – starting with the well-stocked library, which allowed me to load up on reading materials to snuggle into my giant bed with.
1. Water sports
Water sports are still on the agenda when the rain is pouring – what does it matter if it's raining when you're already underwater? There's something incredibly freeing about masking up and snorkelling as the rain pitter-patters down. The fish paid no attention to the rain, darting about the reef in their abundance of rainbow hues, so why should I have been put off?
Kandolhu offers diving excursions too, as well as sailing, paddle boarding and my favourite, kayaking. I took to my kayak in a rare non-rainy spell, but the boats and snorkels were available even when it was bucketing down, and it didn't dissuade any of the many snorkelling fanatics I spoke to from heading underwater, with the snorkellers reporting turtles, sharks and endless fish from their time under the sea.
2. Fine dining
Kandolhu is home to five restaurants, as well as an all-day bar, waiting with open arms to welcome you in for a tropical cocktail at any hour, come rain or shine, readily rolling down the shutters when particularly frightful weather set in.
Knowing that there were restaurants offering incredible food, steps from my villa, kept my spirits up when the rain came down, and I looked forward to dinner every single night.
Restaurant-wise, The Market is where breakfast and lunch are served (including the best Caesar salad I have ever had – I had one every day), for casual dining. Also open at lunch (but not at dinner) is the pier-side Mexican restaurant Ata Roa, serving fresh tacos and ceviche cooked in front of your eyes.
The Sea Grill was my favourite eating spot, boasting a fresh fish counter offering endless delicacies which could be cooked on the tandoor or grilled with your choice of marinade. I had the red snapper twice with citrus butter. Divine. Be sure to order the lava cake too, which was recommended by every member of staff I spoke to.
Another dinner option is the Japanese restaurant, Banzai, which is part dinner, part show, with the chef entertaining while he whips up your dinner in front of you on the teppanyaki, sending flames leaping into the air as he sears steaks and tuna.
For fine dining fans, Olive has a menu of Mediterranean-inspired dishes, served in the rooftop restaurant surrounded by palm fronds.
Having dining options all promising second-to-none food is essential on an island, and the choice of several options kept things exciting.
3. The spa
Kandolhu's spa is the most serene spot on an already blissful island. Perfectly secluded, you can smell the relaxing aroma before you see the spa. Home to a sauna and steam room, along with a botanical outdoor pool surrounded by luscious, leafy plants, you feel totally alone in the heart of the jungle. As the rain pitter-pattered down, the pool was the ideal spot to let your worries wash away. I recommend booking into Kandolhu's spa the day you arrive or on your first full day, to really adjust to island relaxation.
You have the spa area to yourself for the duration of your time there, which makes it extra special, and there's a wealth of treatment options available.
4. The gym
Not for everyone, but I enjoyed visiting the fully equipped gym during my stay. I ran on the treadmills, lifted weights and stretched on the yoga mats, and felt all the better for staying active.
5. Cloud bathing
When the rain relented, I delighted in lying on the sumptuous loungers at my villa. Sure, it wasn't the same as feeling the sun warming your skin, but the temperature was perfect at 28 degrees – more than warm enough to lie out in, as well as dip between the pool and the sea. I adopted a noodle from the water sports centre and enjoyed bobbing about in the sea – until I saw a shark that was about five feet long. It made me decide the sea was for them, and I'd leave them well alone.
6. Hammock lounging
The hammock over the sea was the perfect place not only to watch the fish swim by and to read a book, but also for stargazing. When the clouds cleared one evening, the clear sky felt an extra blessing and I saw clearer, brighter stars than I ever had before. Noticing that the star formations you're familiar with are upside down (Orion's Belt, for example) is a novel experience and I loved watching the stars in the warm night air.
Is the Maldives worth visiting in the rain?
Of course, I'd have loved to have returned from Kandolhu with tan lines and a phone full of sun-soaked shots, but I'm happy to report the wet weather didn't dampen my Maldives experience – it just made it a different one. The island is still breathtakingly beautiful without the sun, and I still found myself asking, "Is this place real?" walking shoeless along the beach soundtracked only by bird song and the sound of lapping waves. Plus, having not seen the sun, I have a reason to return
Kandolhu is available exclusively through Kuoni in the UK. Seven nights in a Deluxe Ocean Pool Villa on Full Board A La Carte, including flights with Qatar Airways from London Heathrow and transfers in resort, priced from £7,649 per person.
