With a name synonymous with glamour, wealth and world class skiing, St Moritz is a magnet for celebrities, royalty and billionaires.
Madonna, John Travolta, Claudia Schiffer and Kate Moss are among the Swiss alpine resort’s famous fans, while Princess Beatrice and her husband Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi, the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, and the Swedish and Dutch royal families have all graced its powdery white slopes.
Even Elizabeth Hurley, who admits to being “the world’s worst skier”, says she loves the exclusive mountain destination - “but mostly for the food”. After spending a few days at the winter playground of the rich and famous, I can attest that St Moritz is indeed a foodie heaven, as well the perfect place to burn off those extra calories.
Charming boutique hotel:
I stayed at the five-star Giardino Mountain, a chic boutique hotel nestled in the Endagin Valley, between the peaks of the Corvatsch and Corviglia mountain areas.
A 10-minute drive from the glitz and glamour of the town, this former 18th century coaching inn combines traditional alpine charm with modern luxury. Extended over the decades, it now has three restaurants – including one with two Michelin stars – as well as a spa, sun deck and cosy lounge bar, where we enjoyed a drink by the fireside as we waited to be shown to our room following a scenic three-and-a-half train ride from Zurich airport.
Our chic and stylish suite had stunning views of the mountains and a balcony overlooking the outdoor bar, which twinkled with fairy lights after sunset. Neutral creams and natural wood floors and walls gave the space a chic, contemporary feel, while the relaxed vibe continued in the bedroom, which had a comfy king-size bed, TV and bathtub.
Meanwhile, our living area had a TV, minibar and coffee machine, and led through to two bathrooms.
Gastronomic delights:
Over three nights, we sampled each of Giardino Mountain’s three excellent restaurants, each with its own identity and mouthwatering menu.
Stuva, with its wood paneled walls and ceilings, used to be the hotel’s reception area but has since been converted into a quaint and intimate space in the style of an Alpine hut, serving traditional dishes like rosti, beef tartare and hearty soups. We opted for starters of sashimi salmon with beetroot, yoghurt and radish, and thinly sliced roast beef with a green herb sauce. Main courses were Wiener schnitzel with cranberries and fries, and a delicious salmon trout, served with crunchy seasonal vegetables and a creamy sauce, followed by spiced cheesecake with almond crumble and berries.
Hide and Seek, where we also enjoyed a buffet or cooked breakfast each morning, is transformed into a bustling bistro in the evenings, with dishes including tender, rare slices of Wagu steak, grilled turbot with caviar and beurre blanc and a variety of risotto and pasta.
For an indulgent and special experience Ecco, run by two Michelin star head chef Reto Brändli, offers an intimate dining experience in a subterranean former chapel that is as much theatre as it is food.
Over three hours, we tried the five-course tasting menu, which can be paired with wine specially chosen by the sommelier. From the little extra courses – including oysters in a passionfruit vinaigrette and a mini cornetto filled with beef tartare, caviar and smoked eel crème fresh (my personal favourite) – to the Kir Royale-inspired palate cleanser, each course was beautifully presented and served with dramatic flourish. Fois gras with hibiscus and pickled cherry was followed by Breton john dory served with a razor clam, celery and grapefruit sauce, with further courses of sweetbreads with Perigord truffle and pork with shitake and kimchee, rounded off with a dessert made from mascarpone, carrot and Belgian shortbread.
Meanwhile, for casual dining, there are plenty of nice eateries on the slopes, including Chasellas, a cute stone-built restaurant with a wooden deck outside, where we stopped for a lunch of risotto and pasta Bolognese and a well-earned glass of wine.
Winter playground:
Right opposite Giardino Mountain is the ski shop, where we rented our skis and boots before being ferried to the slopes. Our helpful hotel concierge Claudio was on hand for all our arrangements, from travel to booking our ski lessons and making restaurant reservations.
St Moritz has twice hosted the Winter Olympics and is popular with experienced skiers and snowboarders, who have their pick of red and black runs. For those (like me) who are less advanced, there are some great blue runs in the Corviglia area, which has beautiful views on a clear day.
Luckily for us, the sky was blue, and the sun was shining as we cruised down the mountain, guided by Noah, our friendly and patient instructor from Suvretta Sports.
There are no green runs here, but children and beginners can start on the nursery slopes, which have a magic carpet and button lift, before progressing.
Nearby Corvatsch boasts the highest peak in the region at 3,303 metres, as well as the longest floodlit night run in Switzerland, while thrill seekers can find off-peak opportunities and the country’s longest glacier run at Diavolezza.
Away from the slopes, there is more fun to be had in, from ice skating to bob sledding on the Olympia Bob Run – the oldest in the world. Meanwhile, each January, St Moritz plays host to the Snow Polo World Cup.
For those who like to shop, the town has designer boutiques from Prada and Valentino to Louis Vuitton and Hermes.
My personal favourite après ski activity was the swim, sauna and relaxing full body massage I enjoyed in Giardino Mountain’s peaceful spa – exactly what I needed after a weekend putting my muscles through their paces.
Getting there:
Easyjet flies from Gatwick to Zurich, and a Swiss rail pass is available at sbb.ch.
Giardino Mountain starts from starts at CHF 790 per night. Book here