Every year when summer is on the horizon, I imagine embracing my natural ringlets, with salt air and faster air-drying time conjuring images of shiny, happy kinks and coils.
I picture my hair looking like Amanda Seyfried's in Mamma Mia, or maybe Shakira's. Alas, it's not to be, because beneath its sunny exterior, warm weather is a trying time for curls, with 70% of damage to curly hair caused by humidity, according to Olaplex.
© Getty Images"Summer can be brutal for curls," confirms Ricky Walters, a stylist and the founder of Salon64. "Curly hair thrives on balance, and hot, humid weather throws that completely off."
If you find your curls look more bedraggled than beach babe in the heat, you're not imagining it. "Your scalp produces more sweat when it's sunny, which disrupts the curl pattern at the root," Ricky says. "Summer moisture isn't the good kind, either – it causes curls to collapse, separate and lose their definition.
"Humidity is essentially the enemy of a well-defined curl. Curly hair is naturally more porous, which means it absorbs moisture from the air very easily."
This causes the hair shaft to swell and the cuticle to lift, resulting in frizz. "Your curls lose their structure in hot weather because they’re taking in inconsistent levels of moisture from the environment. It’' why you leave the house with perfect curls and within minutes, they’ve doubled in size and lost all definition."
If you treat your curls properly, they can look incredible in summer. It's just about working with the weather, Ricky says – not against it.
Caring for curls
"Summer care for curly hair should focus on gentle cleansing, lightweight hydration, protection and maintaining definition," says Dani Caldeira, a stylist at the Mayfair salon The Six.
She says we need to power up our haircare come summer, noting: "Rather than trying to fight the season, it is better to adapt your routine to it. Curly hair tends to thrive when it is supported with the right balance of moisture, protection and styling.
"Hydration is key, but it should be approached in the right way. Curly hair benefits most from water-based moisture that can penetrate the hair, followed by products such as gels or mousses to help lock that hydration in and support the curl pattern. Heavy oils alone are often not enough, especially in summer."
Read on for my foolproof summer guide to getting the best from your curls.
1. Reset your curls each morning
"Don't fight yesterday's curls," Ricky says. "In summer, I always recommend rinsing the hair each morning and reapplying your styling products. It brings the curl pattern back to life and gives you control again."
If you haven't got time to wet your hair, we rate Living Proof's Perfect Hair Day Style Refresh Mist, £27. Simply mist it onto dry hair and reshape curls with your fingers. It does the same job as wetting your hair to restyle, but with the added benefit of neutralising odours and softening hair.
2. Sort your scalp
"During warmer months, there is often more sweat, build-up and environmental exposure, so it is important to cleanse the scalp regularly without over-washing or stripping the hair," Dani says. Try a clarifying scalp scrub, such as Moroccanoil's Scalp Purifying Scrub, £28.95. It makes speedy work of ridding the scalp of debris without feeling rough.
3. Lock in moisture
Layering hair products is a clever way to create a barrier against humidity, Ricky says. "Use a leave-in conditioner, followed by a curl cream or gel." Ricky's curl cream of choice is Wavy's Everyday Curl Crème, £26.
4. Be mindful of tying up your hair
It's tempting to throw your hair into a messy bun when it's hot, lest it feel like wearing a hairy scarf in hot weather – but how you tie it up is important. "If you need to get your hair off your neck, use a silk scrunchie and go for loose styles,” Ricky says. “Tight buns and elastics will stretch and damage the curl pattern.”
If you find your hair tangled after tying it up, try the Australian brand Nak's Hydrate Detangle Mist, £23. The featherlight mist hydrates and protects the resilience of your hair.
5. Deep condition weekly
"Sun, sweat and humidity all dehydrate the hair," Ricky says. "Weekly masks keep curls strong, elastic and defined." Our mask of choice is Garnier's Method For Curls Mask, £9.99; formulated especially for textured hair, it creates defined, bouncy curls.
6. Protect your hair from the sun
Look after your hair like you would with your skin, as UV exposure can weaken it over time, Dani says. Read our edit of the best hair SPFs to find the one for you.
7. And swimming, too
"Before swimming, it helps to wet the hair with clean water first and apply a lightweight protective product beforehand,” Dani says. “This can reduce the amount of chlorine or salt water the hair absorbs." I love Mdlondon’s The 1 Hair Primer, £15, a leave-in conditioner with heat protection, which helps even the unruliest hair behave.
