Whether you’re a brunette determined to live life with lighter hair, or (like me) a natural blonde who's desperate to eradicate dullness, one thing’s for sure, whichever end of the scale you sit on: blonde hair is high maintenance, both in time and money.
In a dream world, there'd be a way to stretch out those salon visits without sacrificing that sweet, satisfying, fresh colour glow. The answer? a root smudge. To find out, I booked into Neville Hair & Beauty in Belgravia to see colour expert James Howarth to have my first 'root smudge' experience.
What exactly is a root smudge?
According to James, a root smudge is achieved by “applying a toner that is lighter than the roots, but darker than the highlights, to ensure a smooth blend of colours.” In other words, it softens that harsh line of regrowth and creates a diffused, natural-looking finish.
Because my natural base is already very fair, James kept the toner application minimal, focusing on a subtle blend at the roots. For darker-haired people, the smudge can be dragged further down the hair to create a seamless transition from root to highlight. The good thing about the technique is that it can be customised depending on how much contrast you want - or how long you’d like to leave it before your next salon visit. It's also important to note that this technique isn't just for blondes - it's for anybody wanting to add lighter shades to their natural hair.
The process
We began with my usual bright highlights, applied in fine sections and held together with foils. Once the foils were removed (but before washing my hair), James carefully applied the toner directly to my roots, leaving it to develop for three minutes before adding extra around the hairline for another couple of minutes - a subtle trick to make the front “pop.” He left the toner on the rest of my roots for a total of six minutes before rinsing.
Unlike my previous appointments, where I’d have a mix of blonde highlights and lowlights in an attempt to create “natural” regrowth, James explained that simplicity is key. “The fewer colours you use, the more natural it looks,” he said. “A combination of bright highlights and a soft root blend is all you really need.”
The results
The difference was immediate. My “before” hair had five months of growth - still blonde overall, but with roots that looked flat and lacklustre. Post-smudge, my blonde was brighter, fresher, and more dimensional, but with that subtle naturalness and softness at the roots from the smudge technique, which will allow it to grow out without any harsh lines. In other words, still the brightness I love, but in a version that requires far less upkeep.
How to maintain a root smudge
The good news? A root smudge is easy to look after. James recommends using a clarifying shampoo once a month to remove build-up, or a metal detox treatment to cleanse the hair from particles and minerals deposited from water. If you are a purple shampoo user, James recommends only using it once a month, maximum.
The takeaway: If you love the look of lighter hair but hate the relentless salon cycle, a root smudge might just be the low-maintenance, cost-saving update you’ve been waiting for.
